It looks like a hybrid to me
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Photos by Oceanseeker
- Thread starter ReefMaster
- Start date
It looks like a hybrid to me
Harlequin Tusk Wrasse - Lienardella fasciata
Hi Guys, on on my weekly visit to a different LFS here is a pic of a stunning fish that just has the brightest coloration
Harlequin Tusk Wrasse - Lienardella fasciata: The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is also known as Tusk Harlequinalia. The Lienardella fasciata or Harlequin Tusk wrasse is viscious in appearance, but it is a very peaceful fish. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse will eat any shrimp, crab or snail it can find, so it is not considered reef safe. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is basically shy in nature and hides a lot when it is young but grows bolder with age. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse should be only one per tank. It is best kept in fish only systems. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is compatible with boisterous wrasses, surgeonfishes, large angelfishes, puffers and triggers. Australian specimens are more colorful and hardier
The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is the most popular and ideal choice for the bold community aquarium.
Their teeth would be protruding enough to give that fierce feature as if it’s a dangerous species. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse has thin blue horizontal lines over its head. Harlequin Tusk Fish have wide bright vertical orange-red bands over their heads. These bands alternate with white bands. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse has a yellow tail and the rear areas of their bodies are purple to dark blue in shade. They have black speckles when they are young. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is very sociable and it will sleep on the bottom of the aquarium in a sheltered rocky area. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is not reef safe as they will eat any invertebrate.
Maximum Size: The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse grows up to 10 inches
General Size Specifications: The small size will come to you generally in the range of 1 to 2 inches; the medium in the range of 3 to 4 inches and the large in the range of 5 to 6 inches.
Minimum Tank Size: A single Harlequin Tusk Wrasse should have an aquarium of at least 75 gallons in size. Temperatures between 75 and 80 degrees (24 to 27 degrees Celsius) are appropriate, with a pH of 8.3 to 8.4. Specific gravities should remain between 1.020 and 1.025 in a fish-only aquarium.
Habitat: Range: Indo-West Pacific
Feeding and Diet: The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse should be fed diets of crustaceans, shellfish, and fish. Frozen items are also acceptable.
SOURCE - to be advised
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Copyright Notice
All images appearing on this forum uploaded by Oceanseeker are the exclusive property of Oceanseeker's PHOTO and are protected under International Copyright laws. The images may not be reproduced, copied, transmitted or manipulated without the written permission of Oceanseeker's PHOTO. Use of any image as the basis for another photographic concept or illustration (digital, artist rendering or alike) is a violation of International Copyright laws.
All images are copyrighted © 2009 - 2012 Oceanseeker's PHOTO.
Hi Guys, on on my weekly visit to a different LFS here is a pic of a stunning fish that just has the brightest coloration
Harlequin Tusk Wrasse - Lienardella fasciata: The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is also known as Tusk Harlequinalia. The Lienardella fasciata or Harlequin Tusk wrasse is viscious in appearance, but it is a very peaceful fish. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse will eat any shrimp, crab or snail it can find, so it is not considered reef safe. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is basically shy in nature and hides a lot when it is young but grows bolder with age. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse should be only one per tank. It is best kept in fish only systems. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is compatible with boisterous wrasses, surgeonfishes, large angelfishes, puffers and triggers. Australian specimens are more colorful and hardier
The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is the most popular and ideal choice for the bold community aquarium.
Their teeth would be protruding enough to give that fierce feature as if it’s a dangerous species. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse has thin blue horizontal lines over its head. Harlequin Tusk Fish have wide bright vertical orange-red bands over their heads. These bands alternate with white bands. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse has a yellow tail and the rear areas of their bodies are purple to dark blue in shade. They have black speckles when they are young. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is very sociable and it will sleep on the bottom of the aquarium in a sheltered rocky area. The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse is not reef safe as they will eat any invertebrate.
Maximum Size: The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse grows up to 10 inches
General Size Specifications: The small size will come to you generally in the range of 1 to 2 inches; the medium in the range of 3 to 4 inches and the large in the range of 5 to 6 inches.
Minimum Tank Size: A single Harlequin Tusk Wrasse should have an aquarium of at least 75 gallons in size. Temperatures between 75 and 80 degrees (24 to 27 degrees Celsius) are appropriate, with a pH of 8.3 to 8.4. Specific gravities should remain between 1.020 and 1.025 in a fish-only aquarium.
Habitat: Range: Indo-West Pacific
Feeding and Diet: The Harlequin Tusk Wrasse should be fed diets of crustaceans, shellfish, and fish. Frozen items are also acceptable.
SOURCE - to be advised
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Copyright Notice
All images appearing on this forum uploaded by Oceanseeker are the exclusive property of Oceanseeker's PHOTO and are protected under International Copyright laws. The images may not be reproduced, copied, transmitted or manipulated without the written permission of Oceanseeker's PHOTO. Use of any image as the basis for another photographic concept or illustration (digital, artist rendering or alike) is a violation of International Copyright laws.
All images are copyrighted © 2009 - 2012 Oceanseeker's PHOTO.
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@oceanseeker
At this stage, I have to tell you, that your pictures are brilliant and your passion is outstanding.
It is extremely informative, it prevents newbies from buying delicate species just because of seeing your pictures and it is very professional to include the species informations.
Keep up the good work.
At this stage, I have to tell you, that your pictures are brilliant and your passion is outstanding.
It is extremely informative, it prevents newbies from buying delicate species just because of seeing your pictures and it is very professional to include the species informations.
Keep up the good work.
Last edited by a moderator:
Opistognathus rosenblatti - Bluespotted Jawfish Goby
Hi Guys, Something new to feast your eyes on - a very rare fish to reach our shores.
This pic was shot through glass with the fish inside a perspex holding tank, so some issues with refraction, but the pic still came out ok.
LOCATION - LFS - Cape Town
The Bluespotted Jawfish is an extremely attractive fish. Its head is yellowish brown which gradually blends into a darker, almost black body. The long dorsal fin is yellow and the body is covered with large bright blue spots. There is a wide variance between specimens in how dark the body is. It is a very personable fish which often becomes the favorite of the hobbyists who keep it.
Blue Spot Jawfish adds personality to the home aquarium as this reef-safe, colorful fish darts in and out of its burrow. Its constant observation of everything around its hole/home is reminiscent of Prairie Dogs on land.
The most spectacular jawfish, the Bluespotted Jawfish is not as regularly to the trade available as its relatives, although we have them frequently. This unusual fish makes and interesting display animal. Keep with docile tankmates. Not aggressive towards other fish species, except those that try to enter its burrow. Can keep more than one in the same tank if aquarium is large. Jawfishes can easily jump from open tanks if frightened. Turn off the aquarium lights gradually can help to prevent jumping. Also less likely to jump after it has constructed its burrow. Provide with a thick sand bottom, mixed with pieces of shell and rubble to facilitate burrow construction. Males orally incubates its eggs; when they hatch the larvae enter the plankton. This species has spawned in captivity.
Blue Spot Jawfish once established, it is fairly hardy and peaceful, except with its own kind and possibly with small ornamental shrimp. More than one should only be introduced in very large aquariums where each can establish its own territory. A few inches of soft substrate must be provided to allow the Jawfish to establish its home. Jawfish are notorious "leapers" and require covered aquariums.
Reef Suitability: Bluespotted Jawfish are good reef inhabitants. Their burrowing habits require a deep enough substrate to burrow in. 3" is probably the minimum for them to be able to burrow reasonably well. Some authors state a minimum of 10" substrate, but that is not a requirement to be successful with this fish. Because of their constant desire to burrow, they may tend to bury corals which are placed on the sand and can make a nuisance of themselves.
Temperature: Does well within normal reef tank temperature ranges of at least 76 to 84.
Maximum Size: Blue Spot Jawfish grows up to a maximum size around 4 inches. Opistognathus rosenblatti is great for aquariums of any size, but should be introduced first if kept with fish that may pick on it.
Feeding and Diet: They will readily take most meaty foods that are offered. Since they do not usually venture far from the bottom, the hobbyist needs to ensure that the Jawfish gets its fair share of the food. Many become quite bold and will compete well with the other fish for its food. A well fed Bluespotted Jawfish with have a noticeably plump, even bloated looking, belly after a good feeding. If the fish is shy at first and not feeding well, you should place some food down close to it using a turkey baster or similar tool.
Blue Spot Jawfish are typically enthusiastic eaters who, as carnivores, like frequent feedings of meaty frozen foods, Brine Shrimp, and prepared pellets.
SOURCE
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Copyright Notice
All images appearing on this forum uploaded by Oceanseeker are the exclusive property of Oceanseeker's PHOTO and are protected under International Copyright laws. The images may not be reproduced, copied, transmitted or manipulated without the written permission of Oceanseeker's PHOTO. Use of any image as the basis for another photographic concept or illustration (digital, artist rendering or alike) is a violation of International Copyright laws.
All images are copyrighted © 2009 - 2012 Oceanseeker's PHOTO.
Hi Guys, Something new to feast your eyes on - a very rare fish to reach our shores.
This pic was shot through glass with the fish inside a perspex holding tank, so some issues with refraction, but the pic still came out ok.
LOCATION - LFS - Cape Town
The Bluespotted Jawfish is an extremely attractive fish. Its head is yellowish brown which gradually blends into a darker, almost black body. The long dorsal fin is yellow and the body is covered with large bright blue spots. There is a wide variance between specimens in how dark the body is. It is a very personable fish which often becomes the favorite of the hobbyists who keep it.
Blue Spot Jawfish adds personality to the home aquarium as this reef-safe, colorful fish darts in and out of its burrow. Its constant observation of everything around its hole/home is reminiscent of Prairie Dogs on land.
The most spectacular jawfish, the Bluespotted Jawfish is not as regularly to the trade available as its relatives, although we have them frequently. This unusual fish makes and interesting display animal. Keep with docile tankmates. Not aggressive towards other fish species, except those that try to enter its burrow. Can keep more than one in the same tank if aquarium is large. Jawfishes can easily jump from open tanks if frightened. Turn off the aquarium lights gradually can help to prevent jumping. Also less likely to jump after it has constructed its burrow. Provide with a thick sand bottom, mixed with pieces of shell and rubble to facilitate burrow construction. Males orally incubates its eggs; when they hatch the larvae enter the plankton. This species has spawned in captivity.
Blue Spot Jawfish once established, it is fairly hardy and peaceful, except with its own kind and possibly with small ornamental shrimp. More than one should only be introduced in very large aquariums where each can establish its own territory. A few inches of soft substrate must be provided to allow the Jawfish to establish its home. Jawfish are notorious "leapers" and require covered aquariums.
Reef Suitability: Bluespotted Jawfish are good reef inhabitants. Their burrowing habits require a deep enough substrate to burrow in. 3" is probably the minimum for them to be able to burrow reasonably well. Some authors state a minimum of 10" substrate, but that is not a requirement to be successful with this fish. Because of their constant desire to burrow, they may tend to bury corals which are placed on the sand and can make a nuisance of themselves.
Temperature: Does well within normal reef tank temperature ranges of at least 76 to 84.
Maximum Size: Blue Spot Jawfish grows up to a maximum size around 4 inches. Opistognathus rosenblatti is great for aquariums of any size, but should be introduced first if kept with fish that may pick on it.
Feeding and Diet: They will readily take most meaty foods that are offered. Since they do not usually venture far from the bottom, the hobbyist needs to ensure that the Jawfish gets its fair share of the food. Many become quite bold and will compete well with the other fish for its food. A well fed Bluespotted Jawfish with have a noticeably plump, even bloated looking, belly after a good feeding. If the fish is shy at first and not feeding well, you should place some food down close to it using a turkey baster or similar tool.
Blue Spot Jawfish are typically enthusiastic eaters who, as carnivores, like frequent feedings of meaty frozen foods, Brine Shrimp, and prepared pellets.
SOURCE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright Notice
All images appearing on this forum uploaded by Oceanseeker are the exclusive property of Oceanseeker's PHOTO and are protected under International Copyright laws. The images may not be reproduced, copied, transmitted or manipulated without the written permission of Oceanseeker's PHOTO. Use of any image as the basis for another photographic concept or illustration (digital, artist rendering or alike) is a violation of International Copyright laws.
All images are copyrighted © 2009 - 2012 Oceanseeker's PHOTO.
Last edited by a moderator:
As regards the Harlequin Tusk Wrasse - Lienardella fasciata
In case you are wondering if this pic has been saturated, well its not, the orange is really this bright.
This specimen from what ive been told by the LFS is thats the origin is from Australia and its colouration is so much more vibrant as you can see from the pic.
In case you are wondering if this pic has been saturated, well its not, the orange is really this bright.
This specimen from what ive been told by the LFS is thats the origin is from Australia and its colouration is so much more vibrant as you can see from the pic.
Thanks Michael
Which one were you referring to, the Australian Harlequin Tusk Fish or the Blue Spot Jawfish?
I must upload a pic of the Tusk Fishes's teeth - hectic indeed
Blue Spot Jawfish
This is an absolutely stunning fish in the flesh. As a matter of interest, I just found out that this good looking Blue Spot can set you back upwards of R3k - hectic
Hi LuckyFish
Thanks for your comments. I figured that if im going to do this I may as well do it properly and build up some sort of database of species seen locally, so that it inspires others to continue the hobby and we can all educate ourselves in the process.
Ive tried to keep a set format so the reader will get a brief snapshot on what the specimen looks like, its scientific name, origin, feeding, suitability, etc and location of pic taken (this has become a bit of a issue to name so im limited to saying LFS)
I agree that suitability of species is most important. Some hobbyists dont care when purchasing fish even if their fish is not suited to tank size, they buy for the wrong reasons. Also, intentionally or unintentionally, some LFS dont warn reefers enough as to fish suitability as its about the sale.
WARNING ALERT - NO TANGS IN BOYU 450/550 OR NANOS PLEASE - its just not fair on the fish - please do your research for Nano compatible fish
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What LFS was the Harlequin Tusk fish at?
Hi Brandon, Im not at liberty to mention names of LFS on this forum, please pm me. I just want to follow protocol and avoid this thread being closed as well.
I just like sharing the 'Oceans of Life' to inspire other reefers. The purpose of sharing photos of what catches my eye and lens is exactly limited to that. I am not affliliated to any LFS and my intention is not to solicite sales through my posts. I hope you understand.
Truely amazing photos!!!!!
Well done and thank you for sharing with us!
Well done and thank you for sharing with us!
Truely amazing photos!!!!!
Well done and thank you for sharing with us!
Hey Evo, Thanks for taking the trouble to look at my pics
Corallinaceae
Hi Guys
Now for something completely different. I took a pic of the side glass of a reefer's tank recently. I was amazed by how many different colours of Coralline one can get
Coralline algae
Scientific classification
Phylum: Rhodophyta
Class: Florideophyceae
Subclass: Corallinophycidae
Order: Corallinales
Families and subfamilies
Families:
Corallinaceae
Lithophylloideae
Mastophoroideae
Metagoniolithoideae
Corallinoideae
Hapalidiaceae
Austrolithoideae
Choreonematoideae
Melobesioideae
Sporolithaceae
Coralline algae are red algae in the order Corallinales. They are characterized by a thallus that is hard because of calcareous deposits contained within the cell walls. The colors of these algae are most typically pink, or some other shade of red, but some species can be purple, yellow, blue, white or gray-green.
Unattached specimens (maerl, rhodoliths) may form relatively smooth compact balls to warty or fruticose thalli. Many are typically encrusting and rock-like, found in marine waters all over the world.
Coralline algae play an important role in the ecology of coral reefs. Sea urchins, parrot fish, limpets (molluscs) and chitons (molluscs) feed on coralline algae.
A close look at almost any intertidal rocky shore or coral reef will reveal an abundance of pink to pinkish-grey patches, splashed as though by a mad painter over rock surfaces. These patches of pink paint are actually living algae: crustose coralline red algae. The red algae belong to the division Rhodophyta, within which the coralline algae form a distinct, exclusively marine order, the Corallinales. There are over 1600 described species of nongeniculate coralline algae.
The corallines are presently grouped into two families on the basis of their reproductive structures.
Coralline algae are widespread in all of the world's oceans, where they often cover close to 100% of rocky substrata. Many are epiphytic (grow on other algae or marine angiosperms), or epizoic (grow on animals), and some are even parasitic on other corallines. Despite their ubiquity, the coralline algae are poorly known by ecologists, and even by specialist phycologists (people who study algae). For example, a recent book on the seaweeds of Hawaii does not include any crustose coralline algae, even though corallines are quite well studied there and dominate many marine areas.
Traditionally, corallines have been divided into two groups, although this division does not constitute a taxonomic grouping:
the geniculate (articulated) corallines;
the nongeniculate (nonarticulated) corallines.
Geniculate corallines are branching, tree-like plants which are attached to the substratum by crustose or calcified, root-like holdfasts. The plants are made flexible by having noncalcified sections (genicula) separating longer calcified sections (intergenicula). Nongeniculate corallines range from a few micrometres to several centimetres thick crusts. They are often very slow growing, and may occur on rock, coral skeletons, shells, other algae or seagrasses. Crusts may be thin and leafy to thick and strongly adherent. Some are parasitic or partly endophytic on other corallines. Many coralline crusts produce knobby protuberances ranging from a millimetre to several centimetres high. Some are free-living as rhodoliths (rounded, free-living specimens).
PerithallusHypothallusUnderlying rock
Undersurface of Lithophyllum orbiculatum, showing hypothallus and perithallus
The corallines are always calcified. They may bear conceptacles; their cells may fuse, and they may exhibit secondary pit connections. They are capable of constructing stromatolites.
Thalli can be divided into three layers: the hypothallus, perithallus and epithallus. The epithallus is periodically shed, either in sheets or piecemeal.
Habitat
Corallines live in varying depths of water, ranging from periodically-exposed intertidal settings to 270 m water depth (around the maximum penetration of light). Although some species can tolerate brackish or hypersaline waters, no freshwater species exist. (Some species of the morphologically-similar, but non-calcifying, Hildenbrandia, however, can survive in fresh water.) A wide range of turbidities and nutrient concentrations can be tolerated.
Growth
Corallines, especially encrusting forms, are slow growers, and expand by 0.1 to 80 mm annually. All corallines begin with a crustose stage; some later become "frondose".
As a colorful component of live rock sold in the marine aquarium trade, and an important part of reef health, coralline algae are desired in home aquariums for their aesthetic qualities, and ostensible benefit to the tank ecosystem.
SOURCE [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coralline_algae"]Coralline algae - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright Notice
All images appearing on this forum uploaded by Oceanseeker are the exclusive property of Oceanseeker's PHOTO and are protected under International Copyright laws. The images may not be reproduced, copied, transmitted or manipulated without the written permission of Oceanseeker's PHOTO. Use of any image as the basis for another photographic concept or illustration (digital, artist rendering or alike) is a violation of International Copyright laws.
All images are copyrighted © 2009 - 2012 Oceanseeker's PHOTO.
Hi Guys
Now for something completely different. I took a pic of the side glass of a reefer's tank recently. I was amazed by how many different colours of Coralline one can get
Coralline algae
Scientific classification
Phylum: Rhodophyta
Class: Florideophyceae
Subclass: Corallinophycidae
Order: Corallinales
Families and subfamilies
Families:
Corallinaceae
Lithophylloideae
Mastophoroideae
Metagoniolithoideae
Corallinoideae
Hapalidiaceae
Austrolithoideae
Choreonematoideae
Melobesioideae
Sporolithaceae
Coralline algae are red algae in the order Corallinales. They are characterized by a thallus that is hard because of calcareous deposits contained within the cell walls. The colors of these algae are most typically pink, or some other shade of red, but some species can be purple, yellow, blue, white or gray-green.
Unattached specimens (maerl, rhodoliths) may form relatively smooth compact balls to warty or fruticose thalli. Many are typically encrusting and rock-like, found in marine waters all over the world.
Coralline algae play an important role in the ecology of coral reefs. Sea urchins, parrot fish, limpets (molluscs) and chitons (molluscs) feed on coralline algae.
A close look at almost any intertidal rocky shore or coral reef will reveal an abundance of pink to pinkish-grey patches, splashed as though by a mad painter over rock surfaces. These patches of pink paint are actually living algae: crustose coralline red algae. The red algae belong to the division Rhodophyta, within which the coralline algae form a distinct, exclusively marine order, the Corallinales. There are over 1600 described species of nongeniculate coralline algae.
The corallines are presently grouped into two families on the basis of their reproductive structures.
Coralline algae are widespread in all of the world's oceans, where they often cover close to 100% of rocky substrata. Many are epiphytic (grow on other algae or marine angiosperms), or epizoic (grow on animals), and some are even parasitic on other corallines. Despite their ubiquity, the coralline algae are poorly known by ecologists, and even by specialist phycologists (people who study algae). For example, a recent book on the seaweeds of Hawaii does not include any crustose coralline algae, even though corallines are quite well studied there and dominate many marine areas.
Traditionally, corallines have been divided into two groups, although this division does not constitute a taxonomic grouping:
the geniculate (articulated) corallines;
the nongeniculate (nonarticulated) corallines.
Geniculate corallines are branching, tree-like plants which are attached to the substratum by crustose or calcified, root-like holdfasts. The plants are made flexible by having noncalcified sections (genicula) separating longer calcified sections (intergenicula). Nongeniculate corallines range from a few micrometres to several centimetres thick crusts. They are often very slow growing, and may occur on rock, coral skeletons, shells, other algae or seagrasses. Crusts may be thin and leafy to thick and strongly adherent. Some are parasitic or partly endophytic on other corallines. Many coralline crusts produce knobby protuberances ranging from a millimetre to several centimetres high. Some are free-living as rhodoliths (rounded, free-living specimens).
PerithallusHypothallusUnderlying rock
Undersurface of Lithophyllum orbiculatum, showing hypothallus and perithallus
The corallines are always calcified. They may bear conceptacles; their cells may fuse, and they may exhibit secondary pit connections. They are capable of constructing stromatolites.
Thalli can be divided into three layers: the hypothallus, perithallus and epithallus. The epithallus is periodically shed, either in sheets or piecemeal.
Habitat
Corallines live in varying depths of water, ranging from periodically-exposed intertidal settings to 270 m water depth (around the maximum penetration of light). Although some species can tolerate brackish or hypersaline waters, no freshwater species exist. (Some species of the morphologically-similar, but non-calcifying, Hildenbrandia, however, can survive in fresh water.) A wide range of turbidities and nutrient concentrations can be tolerated.
Growth
Corallines, especially encrusting forms, are slow growers, and expand by 0.1 to 80 mm annually. All corallines begin with a crustose stage; some later become "frondose".
As a colorful component of live rock sold in the marine aquarium trade, and an important part of reef health, coralline algae are desired in home aquariums for their aesthetic qualities, and ostensible benefit to the tank ecosystem.
SOURCE [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coralline_algae"]Coralline algae - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright Notice
All images appearing on this forum uploaded by Oceanseeker are the exclusive property of Oceanseeker's PHOTO and are protected under International Copyright laws. The images may not be reproduced, copied, transmitted or manipulated without the written permission of Oceanseeker's PHOTO. Use of any image as the basis for another photographic concept or illustration (digital, artist rendering or alike) is a violation of International Copyright laws.
All images are copyrighted © 2009 - 2012 Oceanseeker's PHOTO.
Last edited by a moderator:
Oops, that looks more like an anthias to me.
Thanks, I fixed the pic url
That is one healthy tank
Hi Sean, this tank was a room divider, probably about 5000l with all the modcons and good lighting, so never an issue with water quality. Only aiptasia problem thats an ongoing saga.
Hi Guys, Something new to feast your eyes on - a very rare fish to reach our shores.
This pic was shot through glass with the fish inside a perspex holding tank, so some issues with refraction, but the pic still came out ok.
LOCATION - LFS - Cape Town
The Bluespotted Jawfish is an extremely attractive fish. Its head is yellowish brown which gradually blends into a darker, almost black body. The long dorsal fin is yellow and the body is covered with large bright blue spots. There is a wide variance between specimens in how dark the body is. It is a very personable fish which often becomes the favorite of the hobbyists who keep it.
Blue Spot Jawfish adds personality to the home aquarium as this reef-safe, colorful fish darts in and out of its burrow. Its constant observation of everything around its hole/home is reminiscent of Prairie Dogs on land.
The most spectacular jawfish, the Bluespotted Jawfish is not as regularly to the trade available as its relatives, although we have them frequently. This unusual fish makes and interesting display animal. Keep with docile tankmates. Not aggressive towards other fish species, except those that try to enter its burrow. Can keep more than one in the same tank if aquarium is large. Jawfishes can easily jump from open tanks if frightened. Turn off the aquarium lights gradually can help to prevent jumping. Also less likely to jump after it has constructed its burrow. Provide with a thick sand bottom, mixed with pieces of shell and rubble to facilitate burrow construction. Males orally incubates its eggs; when they hatch the larvae enter the plankton. This species has spawned in captivity.
Blue Spot Jawfish once established, it is fairly hardy and peaceful, except with its own kind and possibly with small ornamental shrimp. More than one should only be introduced in very large aquariums where each can establish its own territory. A few inches of soft substrate must be provided to allow the Jawfish to establish its home. Jawfish are notorious "leapers" and require covered aquariums.
Reef Suitability: Bluespotted Jawfish are good reef inhabitants. Their burrowing habits require a deep enough substrate to burrow in. 3" is probably the minimum for them to be able to burrow reasonably well. Some authors state a minimum of 10" substrate, but that is not a requirement to be successful with this fish. Because of their constant desire to burrow, they may tend to bury corals which are placed on the sand and can make a nuisance of themselves.
Temperature: Does well within normal reef tank temperature ranges of at least 76 to 84.
Maximum Size: Blue Spot Jawfish grows up to a maximum size around 4 inches. Opistognathus rosenblatti is great for aquariums of any size, but should be introduced first if kept with fish that may pick on it.
Feeding and Diet: They will readily take most meaty foods that are offered. Since they do not usually venture far from the bottom, the hobbyist needs to ensure that the Jawfish gets its fair share of the food. Many become quite bold and will compete well with the other fish for its food. A well fed Bluespotted Jawfish with have a noticeably plump, even bloated looking, belly after a good feeding. If the fish is shy at first and not feeding well, you should place some food down close to it using a turkey baster or similar tool.
Blue Spot Jawfish are typically enthusiastic eaters who, as carnivores, like frequent feedings of meaty frozen foods, Brine Shrimp, and prepared pellets.
SOURCE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright Notice
All images appearing on this forum uploaded by Oceanseeker are the exclusive property of Oceanseeker's PHOTO and are protected under International Copyright laws. The images may not be reproduced, copied, transmitted or manipulated without the written permission of Oceanseeker's PHOTO. Use of any image as the basis for another photographic concept or illustration (digital, artist rendering or alike) is a violation of International Copyright laws.
All images are copyrighted © 2009 - 2012 Oceanseeker's PHOTO.
I want it who has it.