Let the Build Begin

Hey Pads - looking good there!!! Wow, that light unit is amazing!!! Where did you get it. A tad yellow though, and heat might be an issue... :lol::lol:

Anyway, back to being serious. I agree with Mudshark - I had the overflow as you proposed on my previous tank, but it does not work that well at surface skimming. Try and get as big of a surface skimm as possible. A corner overflow box would most likely be the best option here... You can even have one of each side if you want, or one in the middle - depends on your scaping ideas... ;)
 
Mudshark said:
It is possible but not ideal. You want to skim the top layer of water surface off to remove all the floaties etc. The way that you are suggesting makes it difficult to put a wier in front of the drain. If you don't want to remove the side glass, rather drill the bottom corner and make an internal corner overflow.
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Yip, I kinda get what you're saying. Just need to find some of that black plastic sheet to build with. Last time I looked it was hard to find.

Another question, what diameter durso should I use. I'm guessing it depends on the overall rate at which I wish to filter the overflow?
 
MS and Jaco, Is this something a little more like what you're talking about. I don't really wanna remove the side pane to insert the plastic, but this slanted box will allow for a large length of surface overflow, the angle will direct the skimmed water down so that no food/waste settles. I'm just not sure on the durso part. How high would the pipe have to extend?
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That plastic is propably hard to find if you are looking for flat sheets of it. But you must build the box from glass (just checking :p) and then stick that plastic sheet on it. You might just buy those big commercially available black top canopies that comes with most fresh water tanks... Then just cut it to size. Those canopies aren't that expensive.

The hole size isn't too important - obviously you must not have a 1cm diameter hole - so anything from 25mm onwards... My tanks entire back panel is shorter than the rest, thus skimming that surface, and the I have only two 25mm holes in the overflow box, running into my sump...

One thing to plumb around thought is what if something gets sucked into the overflow i.e snail, fish, star, anemone etc and it blocks the hole... Your tank will flood. That is why either two holes are nice, or one hole, but with a pipe that runs up the overflow box chamber with one hole at the bottom and one at the top, so should the bottom get blocked, the water will still run throuhg the top as backup...;)

Then, flow through your sump should preferably be as slow as possible - just not standing still hey... The more contact time you can allow for the water in your sump, skimmer, DSB etc the better, so get the weakest pump you can that can still handle the head you need to return the water...
 
Pads said:
MS and Jaco, Is this something a little more like what you're talking about. I don't really wanna remove the side pane to insert the plastic, but this slanted box will allow for a large length of surface overflow, the angle will direct the skimmed water down so that no food/waste settles. I'm just not sure on the durso part. How high would the pipe have to extend?
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This would be easier to build, clean and still give you a good overflow. Sorry fot the rough sketch, but my google sketch is not that good yet. What I drew below workld even better if you could do this in the middle, as you then have 3 skimming panes, and not two as in my drawing...

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Jaco Schoeman said:
This would be easier to build, clean and still give you a good overflow. Sorry fot the rough sketch, but my google sketch is not that good yet. What I drew below workld even better if you could do this in the middle, as you then have 3 skimming panes, and not two as in my drawing...

No worries. I think I've got the idea. I'm going for the neatest, cleanest and least invasive option so that I maximize the space in the tank. Thx for the help :thumbup:
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Okey, another option is drilling two / three / four 40mm holes on the side, taking into consideration at what hight your water level would be. Then you block it of with green mesch. Then you build the box I drew on the ourside, with two holes at the bottom of the box (height of the box is up to you) where you then run pipes all the way to your sump. Makes sense?

That would leave nothing inside your tank, just four holes on the side... You will however need to clean the mesh often with a toothbrush (the wifes' if possible... hehehehe :nono:)
 
Jaco Schoeman said:
Okey, another option is drilling two / three / four 40mm holes on the side, taking into consideration at what hight your water level would be. Then you block it of with green mesch. Then you build the box I drew on the ourside, with two holes at the bottom of the box (height of the box is up to you) where you then run pipes all the way to your sump. Makes sense?

That would leave nothing inside your tank, just four holes on the side... You will however need to clean the mesh often with a toothbrush (the wifes' if possible... hehehehe :nono:)
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She is already a clean freak, oooohhhh the trouble. I understand what you saying and I like the idea of having the overflow on the outside. I assume you'd get the gargling sound if there is no complete syphon.

How about this option. Draws overflow from large length, 90° Angle Down turned to create syphon. Remaining Durso pipes on outside of tank. Water level high so if i need to do repairs only have to drain a minimal amount of water to open up pipe.


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I guess it might work, but I wouldn't go for the syphon effect. Syphoning and marines aren't two terms I like to use together...:p

Why not just let the water run into the pipe, and down into the sump? If that system has a power failure, what will make it start the syphon again that has been broken?

It is best to just let the water flow over something into the sump, and let the sump pump determine the rate at which the water gets pumped back...

Also, this specific desing will not stop blocking of the sustem - if a snail gets stuck your sump gets pumped empty, and the pump runs dry.
 
Pads let me know if you want to come check my setup and have a chat about the overflow. I also pondered on this for awhile and didnt know what to do. Ive had loads of experience with this.

Let me know.
 
Sentari said:
Pads let me know if you want to come check my setup and have a chat about the overflow. I also pondered on this for awhile and didnt know what to do. Ive had loads of experience with this.

Let me know.
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Will do, I think I need some visual stimulus. I might wait until the reef meet to unleash all my questions. I'll message you when I'm ready, thx for the help.
 
Jaco Schoeman said:
I guess it might work, but I wouldn't go for the syphon effect. Syphoning and marines aren't two terms I like to use together...:p

Why not just let the water run into the pipe, and down into the sump? If that system has a power failure, what will make it start the syphon again that has been broken?

It is best to just let the water flow over something into the sump, and let the sump pump determine the rate at which the water gets pumped back...

Also, this specific desing will not stop blocking of the sustem - if a snail gets stuck your sump gets pumped empty, and the pump runs dry.
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I totally agree about the power failure issue. But doesn't a durso have a syphon system on it that's what makes it so quiet? I reckon I might just drill a few hole horizontally and have them drain into an external overflow that I silicone to the outside of the tank. I'm still worried about the water noise. Is there a perfect system :dots:
 
Pads said:
I totally agree about the power failure issue. But doesn't a durso have a syphon system on it that's what makes it so quiet? I reckon I might just drill a few hole horizontally and have them drain into an external overflow that I silicone to the outside of the tank. I'm still worried about the water noise. Is there a perfect system :dots:
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You will ALWAYS have some noise. Remember your pumps, skimmer, DSB everything makes water movement, thus you wont have a whisper quite system. Another way to damper the sound of falling water is by putting a piece of filter wool in the box. The negative to that is it needs cleaning:(.

As long as the water doesn't fall far, it wouldn't really make a noise to such an extent that you would get irritated by it. Trust me, noisy powerheads are far more irritating than water sound ever could be!!! :razz:
 
Jaco Schoeman said:
You will ALWAYS have some noise. Remember your pumps, skimmer, DSB everything makes water movement, thus you wont have a whisper quite system. Another way to damper the sound of falling water is by putting a piece of filter wool in the box. The negative to that is it needs cleaning:(.

As long as the water doesn't fall far, it wouldn't really make a noise to such an extent that you would get irritated by it. Trust me, noisy powerheads are far more irritating than water sound ever could be!!! :razz:
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Ahhh man, so you telling me I can't have the perfect system :p Alright, I'll settle for 99% perfect. I suppose if my overflow drains to the sump through a few smaller diameter pipes as opposed to 1 large one then it will limit the space for air that creates the gargling. Just need to cover the hole with mesh to keep the snails out.
 
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