Article Ideal Water Parameters

Below are recommended water parameters that can be used as a guideline for general marine tanks.

pH - 8.2 to 8.4
Salinity - 30.5 to 35 (or 1.023 to 1.026 Specific Gravity (SG))

Calcium - 380-420
Alkalinity - 6 to 9 dKh (ideally 6.5 to 8.5 dKH) NSW levels
Magnesium - 1300 to 1350
Iodine - 0.04 to 0.06
Strontium - 8ppm or 8mg/l (NSW levels)
Potassium (K+) - 380-420
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - less than 5
Phosphate - less than 0.01
Ammonia - 0

Calcium (Ca)

All calcareous animals, especially corals need calcium and carbonates to grow and flourish. However the growth rate of corals depends mostly on the zooxanthellae (algae) that live symbiotically within them. These algae present the coral with precious carbohydrates of their own metabolism. As they photosynthesize, they use carbon dioxide from the water, which enables the coral to precipitate calcium carbonate in its skeleton.

Natural sea water contains on average 400-410 ppm of calcium and is typically saturated at this level. It is important not to exceed 450 ppm, as super saturation can result in the calcium surplus precipitating out of the solution, taking desirable trace elements with it (commonly known as a snowstorm in a tank).

Alkalinity (KH or dKH)

Natural alkalinity and calcium concentrations are of special importance to ensure optimum growth and well-being of many invertebrates and calcareous algae in an aquarium. In many reef aquaria an increase of alkalinity and a decrease of calcium often occur.

Magnesium (Mg)

A sufficient supply of magnesium is as essential for the growth and well being of reef building coralline algae as calcium. It is one of the major constituents of seawater and is directly involved in algae photosynthesis, i.e. the conversion of carbon dioxide (CO2) and light into organic compounds. Magnesium helps in the calcification process of invertebrates and is essential to balance KH and Ca.

Iodine

Of all the trace elements found in natural sea water, iodine is associated with the widest range of effects. Iodine prevents goitre as an important component of the thyroid hormone. It also is essential for the hardening of the chitinous shell of crustaceans. Corallinaceous red algae deposit iodine in surface structures and gorgonias deposit it in the axial skeleton.
Experiments clearly show that idoine improves the adaptation to light and the colouring of anthozoa, especially of hard corals.

Due to its unstable nature in solution, iodine should be added to a marine aquarium on a regular basis in its most effective form, as elementary I2. Iodine demand increases with aquarium population density.

Strontium

A sufficient supply of strontium and carbon dioxide is as essential for the growth and well-being of reef-building corals as calcium. Both elements are supplied to the corals with the help of the zooxanthellae (algae) that live symbiotically within them.

Ammonia (NH3)

Ammonia Nitrogen, the first toxic stage of the nitrogen cycle.

Nitrite (NO2)

An Unstable form of nitrogen and the second stage of the nitrogen cycle.

Nitrate (NO3)

The final part of the nitrogen cycle which denitrifies in anoxic conditions and turns into nitrogen gas.

Phosphate (PO4)

An unwanted nutrient found in tap water, fish foods etc that feeds slime and hair algaes.
 
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I dont keep mine running all the time. I set it up when needed.

Mods can move this to another thread if they want as this is not quite water parameter related.
 
Hi I have 2 tanks and I'm testing co2

I have goe 2 marine tanks and 2 fresh water tanks. I adding co2 in my fresh water tanks and nou I started to do it with my one marine tank. Is it bad for marine or not. My Fresh water tanks is going great. Thanx.
 
Hi Duncan - the ONLY reason why you want to add CO2 into your fresh water tanks, is that this promotes plants growing. There is enough CO2 in the air, to provide for the small amount of zooxanthellae cells in the corals, to grow. Plants needs a LOT more CO2, than what corals do. Adding CO2 into the marine tank, will also make the pH of the marine water drop quite a bit. I would suggest to immediately stop adding CO2 to your marine tanks.

If you have fish only tanks - then the drop in pH, IF slow enough, would not/should not impact the fish so much. But, if you have ANY invertebrates, then they could die.
 
@shawn smit

From an article On the net
Setting the shut down at 450 mv sounds like an appropriate precaution to me, with the aquarium typically operating at 350-450 mv.
 
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hi guys what is the right orp range for a tank.

There is no right or correct number for your orp, in fact chasing a number can lead to problems as orp probes can read incorrect values, and even become uncalibrated, and dirty.
Your orp can also change during different parts of the day. You shouldn't really dose much more than 15mg/l per hour. 42omv is Ok but then is 450. Your tank will be wipe out at around 580mv.
Why would you like to run ozone should be your first question? If you want to run it to kill parasites or virus and bacteria, you will need and orp in excess of 650mv. So this can never be done.
 
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Tried but got this.
So just decided to ask quickly.

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