Article Ideal Water Parameters

Below are recommended water parameters that can be used as a guideline for general marine tanks.

pH - 8.2 to 8.4
Salinity - 30.5 to 35 (or 1.023 to 1.026 Specific Gravity (SG))

Calcium - 380-420
Alkalinity - 6 to 9 dKh (ideally 6.5 to 8.5 dKH) NSW levels
Magnesium - 1300 to 1350
Iodine - 0.04 to 0.06
Strontium - 8ppm or 8mg/l (NSW levels)
Potassium (K+) - 380-420
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - less than 5
Phosphate - less than 0.01
Ammonia - 0

Calcium (Ca)

All calcareous animals, especially corals need calcium and carbonates to grow and flourish. However the growth rate of corals depends mostly on the zooxanthellae (algae) that live symbiotically within them. These algae present the coral with precious carbohydrates of their own metabolism. As they photosynthesize, they use carbon dioxide from the water, which enables the coral to precipitate calcium carbonate in its skeleton.

Natural sea water contains on average 400-410 ppm of calcium and is typically saturated at this level. It is important not to exceed 450 ppm, as super saturation can result in the calcium surplus precipitating out of the solution, taking desirable trace elements with it (commonly known as a snowstorm in a tank).

Alkalinity (KH or dKH)

Natural alkalinity and calcium concentrations are of special importance to ensure optimum growth and well-being of many invertebrates and calcareous algae in an aquarium. In many reef aquaria an increase of alkalinity and a decrease of calcium often occur.

Magnesium (Mg)

A sufficient supply of magnesium is as essential for the growth and well being of reef building coralline algae as calcium. It is one of the major constituents of seawater and is directly involved in algae photosynthesis, i.e. the conversion of carbon dioxide (CO2) and light into organic compounds. Magnesium helps in the calcification process of invertebrates and is essential to balance KH and Ca.

Iodine

Of all the trace elements found in natural sea water, iodine is associated with the widest range of effects. Iodine prevents goitre as an important component of the thyroid hormone. It also is essential for the hardening of the chitinous shell of crustaceans. Corallinaceous red algae deposit iodine in surface structures and gorgonias deposit it in the axial skeleton.
Experiments clearly show that idoine improves the adaptation to light and the colouring of anthozoa, especially of hard corals.

Due to its unstable nature in solution, iodine should be added to a marine aquarium on a regular basis in its most effective form, as elementary I2. Iodine demand increases with aquarium population density.

Strontium

A sufficient supply of strontium and carbon dioxide is as essential for the growth and well-being of reef-building corals as calcium. Both elements are supplied to the corals with the help of the zooxanthellae (algae) that live symbiotically within them.

Ammonia (NH3)

Ammonia Nitrogen, the first toxic stage of the nitrogen cycle.

Nitrite (NO2)

An Unstable form of nitrogen and the second stage of the nitrogen cycle.

Nitrate (NO3)

The final part of the nitrogen cycle which denitrifies in anoxic conditions and turns into nitrogen gas.

Phosphate (PO4)

An unwanted nutrient found in tap water, fish foods etc that feeds slime and hair algaes.

 

[viper357]

Most retail shops run their tanks at 1.022

There's reasons for that, and the reason why we need to acclimate our corals and fish before putting them into our home aquariums. Some lfs's run their fish only holding tanks as low as 1.016.

i don't think it's worth putting the fish and corals thru that change of osmoses just so the skimmer can work better.

My skimmer comment was a bit of a joke, hence the smilie, even though it is true I didn't mean that as the only reason why we run our tanks at an average salinity from where most of our inhabitants come from.

 

[coswecanfly]

My dKH is 12 and everything in my tank seems to be loving it...???

 

[Trident]

There's reasons for that, and the reason why we need to acclimate our corals and fish before putting them into our home aquariums. Some lfs's run their fish only holding tanks as low as 1.016.My skimmer comment was a bit of a joke, hence the smilie, even though it is true I didn't mean that as the only reason why we run our tanks at an average salinity from where most of our inhabitants come from.

Have a look at my tank on my album and let me know if u think i need to up my SG to 1.025

And yes i know there are reasons.. Don't forget, i am a retailer also. However, before i go and adjust my SG i wana know is it worh doing for the corals?

 

[viper357]

Have a look at my tank on my album and let me know if u think i need to up my SG to 1.025

And yes i know there are reasons.. Don't forget, i am a retailer also. However, before i go and adjust my SG i wana know is it worh doing for the corals?

I didn't say there was anything wrong with 1.022.

I'm no scientist but here is my understanding and thinking with regards to what I have learned through reading and discussions over the last few years. The average salinity in our oceans where our livestock is collected seems to be around 1.025 to 1.027, so it would be logical to run our tanks at that same average. Fish can handle a much lower salinity and it is apparently better for them, disease and parasite wise, to be run at a much lower salinity, however, from experience corals do not seem to be so forgiving and do need to be run at higher salinity levels more close to the accepted average, the same goes for shrimps, however, looking at tanks around the world it is interesting to see the ranges that some of them are run at, from between 1.023 to 1.028, all healthy looking systems. Long term results, do we actually have any evidence or scientific studies about the long term effects of running at lower or elevated salinities? I don't think we do, so until then I will stick to running my tank at an average of what our oceans run at, it may well be possible to run your tank lower, as long as it is done over time and not overnight, corals love stability, once they have adapted to a lower salinity then I'm pretty sure they will be quite happy if that level is then kept stable, but when selling or fragging you need to remember that you may be selling your corals to your buddy who's tank is running at 1.026 and putting the coral into that tank may have a negative impact on it and it may go into shock and could deteriorate or die. So always test the water you receive the coral in and your own water then acclimate accordingly to ensure maximum chance of survival. So yeah, I would say there is nothing wrong with your salinity as long as you keep it stable and all livestock is happy. You do also need to realise that running at a lower salinity will more than likely reduce your other parameters like calcium, magnesium and alkalinity, these will more than likely need to be dosed manually to bring them up to acceptable levels, so the question to ask is, is it worthwhile running at a lower salinity when you have to pay extra to manually dose all these other chemicals? I don't know, is it even true? What are your CA, Alk and MG levels in your 1.0225 salt mix? Curious to know.

 

[viper357]

My dKH is 12 and everything in my tank seems to be loving it...???

That's fine, although you're on the upper end of the scale, don't add anything that will increase it too much.

 

[Braco]

Alot of info here guys...the on going battle to keep everything in check..i must admit these elements can drive you up the pole sometimes..but when you get it right the joys of marine keeping and the frustrations is soon forgotten..

 

[Trident]

I didn't say there was anything wrong with 1.022.

I'm no scientist but here is my understanding and thinking with regards to what I have learned through reading and discussions over the last few years. The average salinity in our oceans where our livestock is collected seems to be around 1.025 to 1.027, so it would be logical to run our tanks at that same average. Fish can handle a much lower salinity and it is apparently better for them, disease and parasite wise, to be run at a much lower salinity, however, from experience corals do not seem to be so forgiving and do need to be run at higher salinity levels more close to the accepted average, the same goes for shrimps, however, looking at tanks around the world it is interesting to see the ranges that some of them are run at, from between 1.023 to 1.028, all healthy looking systems. Long term results, do we actually have any evidence or scientific studies about the long term effects of running at lower or elevated salinities? I don't think we do, so until then I will stick to running my tank at an average of what our oceans run at, it may well be possible to run your tank lower, as long as it is done over time and not overnight, corals love stability, once they have adapted to a lower salinity then I'm pretty sure they will be quite happy if that level is then kept stable, but when selling or fragging you need to remember that you may be selling your corals to your buddy who's tank is running at 1.026 and putting the coral into that tank may have a negative impact on it and it may go into shock and could deteriorate or die. So always test the water you receive the coral in and your own water then acclimate accordingly to ensure maximum chance of survival. So yeah, I would say there is nothing wrong with your salinity as long as you keep it stable and all livestock is happy. You do also need to realise that running at a lower salinity will more than likely reduce your other parameters like calcium, magnesium and alkalinity, these will more than likely need to be dosed manually to bring them up to acceptable levels, so the question to ask is, is it worthwhile running at a lower salinity when you have to pay extra to manually dose all these other chemicals? I don't know, is it even true? What are your CA, Alk and MG levels in your 1.0225 salt mix? Curious to know.

Yes i fully agree with all u say. My corals and fish are all very happy and my tank perameters are very stable (well looked after) But i think as an experement i will prob up to 1.025 over the next few weeks. I'll somme use the auto topup with a cup of salt every 3 weeks. Note, I am using all Tropic Marine products including bio calcium but i might need to start using kalk soon as my usage has gone up to 10 scoops a week (getting a bit exp!) just waiting untill it goes up a bit more so i can use all the topup for kalk!
Did u have a look at my tank?

Parameters of my tank:

SG: 1.0225
PH: 8.4
KH: 10
CAL: 440
MG: 1300
NO3: 0
PO4: 0

 

[viper357]

Yeah I love TM Bio Calcium, although I've stopped using it as it's just become too expensive unfortunately.

No I don't recall seeing your tank, got a link?

 

[Trident]

Yeah I love TM Bio Calcium, although I've stopped using it as it's just become too expensive unfortunately.

No I don't recall seeing your tank, got a link?

Me 2 i love all the TM products that's why i stock them in my shop!

Have a look at my Albums u'll find it there.

 

[viper357]

Well, proof is in the pudding, very nice looking tank.

 

[Trident]

Tx Viper, i'll go and apply to my tank an let's see what i learn

 

[MrInternationaL]

great thread.

 

[SeanH]

SO can I assume that, typically and thogh there are scales i.e. 1.023-1.028 etc etc, 1.025 is about the "best average" salinity? Reason i am asking is if you have a stable salinity of 1.025 and yuo go and buy an anamone or fish or coral and it comes from a 1.023 or 1.028 surely there is risk - OR not really? would hate to spend money on a great specimen only to have it die because of this...

 

[butcherman]

@SeanH You have to always drip acclimite and fish. This involves placing the fish in a container with the water it cane with and dripping water through some airline tubing over an hour period. once complete, place the fish in your tank, do not add the water.

 

[mariusmeyer]

SO can I assume that, typically and thogh there are scales i.e. 1.023-1.028 etc etc, 1.025 is about the "best average" salinity? Reason i am asking is if you have a stable salinity of 1.025 and yuo go and buy an anamone or fish or coral and it comes from a 1.023 or 1.028 surely there is risk - OR not really? would hate to spend money on a great specimen only to have it die because of this...

That is one of the main reasons for a quarantine tank. You need to know the salinity of the shops tank and then match your holding tank to that. Once the livestock is in there you can then adjust it to match your tank. The rate at which you adjust is dependent on whether you are raising or lowering the salinity. If going up you should try and do it at a rate of 0.001 per day. Lowering you can do much faster and is normally not a problem. You can drop it by 0.005 over the period of a day without issues.

 

[SeanH]

That is one of the main reasons for a quarantine tank. You need to know the salinity of the shops tank and then match your holding tank to that. Once the livestock is in there you can then adjust it to match your tank. The rate at which you adjust is dependent on whether you are raising or lowering the salinity. If going up you should try and do it at a rate of 0.001 per day. Lowering you can do much faster and is normally not a problem. You can drop it by 0.005 over the period of a day without issues.

AH great - I have a small 3ft that i can convert to a quarantine tank. May not be the right thread but can a simple skimmer be used? one that works with an airpump?

 

[butcherman]

AH great - I have a small 3ft that i can convert to a quarantine tank. May not be the right thread but can a simple skimmer be used? one that works with an airpump?

yes thats a great idea

 

[mariusmeyer]

Skimmer in quarantine just makes it more complicated. Frequent large waterchanges is all you need. Make the quarantine setup as simple as possible. Dont give nasties any place to hide.

 

[butcherman]

here is a good read

Bucket method quarintine

 

[SeanH]

Skimmer in quarantine just makes it more complicated. Frequent large waterchanges is all you need. Make the quarantine setup as simple as possible. Dont give nasties any place to hide.

Lekker! Thanks Marius. Makes good sense. And obviously it is good to keep it running regardless because you never know when you will need it - but again I assume there would be zero to no maintenance while there is nothing in it - and would one get it up and running at the same time as the main tank OR would you set it up after the main tank as it would also need to cycle...