Being using Speralina, seems to be working.
HELP! - I'm A DAD
- Thread starter lIghty
- Start date
Great, I would start looking for an additive with HUFA's, possibly one of the sponsors might have. Also, in a week or two I would want to start trying to get them to eat defrosted frozen mysis mixed with the live artemia.
Any update? My (my son's actually) Tiger Tail seahorses definitely seem to be more active at night, makes it a bit of a challenge for feeding as I'm using live foods still (mysids and amphipods) and also adding frozen mysids in an attempt to get them to eat dead foods. My sump is lit 24/7 so at least the baby banggais in there are getting more food.
Not doing too well, I've lost most of them over the last couple days, not sure why? One seems to be really good and swimming around continuously, still feeding on newly hatched BBS and enriched 2-3 day old Brine, but also have some small live mysis swimming around. Been doing water changes regualy but think it would be alot better if I was able to continue with the loop feed system from my main tank, but with the outbreak of velvet I decided to stop it immediatly. My LFS phoned me today to say he had got some small tanks complete with lights, pumps and filters etc for something like R170, so I might have a look at getting one for the future, if it will work. I learnt a great deal from this though. got some ideas on setups, if I could post for you your advise and opinion.
Just send them by e-mail and I'll have a look. Good luck with rest of the seahorses.
Haven't received any e-mail yet, how many are left, converted some mollies to seawater to help with feeding my Tiger Tails, also still feeding live foods as they are still not interested in frozen foods. My Banggais are doing well.
Sorry Steve, been extremely busy at work with little time to do the scetches, will do them soon.
I only paid R150 for it, its a small jebo (about 20lts) with undergravel filter pump system and light, don't think you could even buy the pump for that. He only had 1 and just want to get rid of them.
Lost the last one yesterday, fed him in the morning, he looked good, when I got home from work he was gone...Can't understand it.
But woke up this morning to find a new brood swimming around in my DT, Funny how life works, so I moved them into the new little tank i got, and started feed right away.
Running the tank bare bottom with only a wooden air stone and small air sponge filter.
Hopefully better luck this time?
Have you got an under the tank sump on your main tank, if you have and it has a DSB and Caulerpa it will be a good place to put a few of the new babies. I do that on my tank with the baby Banggais and they basically find enough food there to grow quite quickly. I have mine lit 24/7 and this gives the babies the opportunity to eat constantly. I will hopefully get the chance to try it out with the seahorses eventually.
I have five Banggais in there presently, three from being released last night and two from the previous batch.
I have five Banggais in there presently, three from being released last night and two from the previous batch.
my sump has only chaeto. so don't thinks the best, as they could get trapped.
Mine also has chaeto, I would consider putting five or so in the chaeto as there will most likely be tiny organisms on the chaeto that they will feed on. Or possibly put some of the chaeto in with the baby seahorses so that they can get supplementary food off the chaeto which will be more nutritional than artemia.
You could leave it in for a day or two then swop it with another piece from your sump which will allow the population to get re-established on the original piece. It should be relatively easy to observe if the babies are finding food on the chaeto.
You could leave it in for a day or two then swop it with another piece from your sump which will allow the population to get re-established on the original piece. It should be relatively easy to observe if the babies are finding food on the chaeto.
But don't you think they will get tangled in it? Think that how I might of lost the last one, coz he just disapared. Will try get some Caulerpa to help with the food sorce.
Will post my design in 10 min, tell me what you think!
Will post my design in 10 min, tell me what you think!
tank designs
Hi
So here are my Seahorse fry tank setup ideas.
1.
http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3781
http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3782
Size 12' x 12' x 20'
Remind you of something? Well got the idea whilst working on my Brine shrimp hatcheries. It will have painted top sides and lid to prevent the BBS from going to the surface for light and rather move lower into the water column, preventing the baby seahorse from chasing them up to the surface and possible taking a lethal mouthfull air. A wooden air stone would be used to supply gentle air bubbles to oxygenate and move the water. I know you probably asking yourself "why just not a std flat bottom tank", well, with raising seahorse fry its important to clean the tank regually, ridding it from any crap on the bottom, which is painfull, with this system it would just sink to the bottom wher it could just be drained off by opening a small valve and them topping up with NSW... Water movement can be adjusted either by controlling the amount of air or by lifting the air stone closer to the surface, so ensure the crap settles.
PROS / CONS
1. Easy to clean with no vacuuming needed
2. Smaller water volume ensures better food to water ratio - better feeding.
3. No water pump required
4. Will still need a grow out tank.
5. More regular water changes
2.
Well its a Std tank with a pipeover flow with a very large sponge filter in the middle, so that there is more surface area for the water flow thru without causing a suction that will hold a fry against it. return is normally along the two far sides.
PROS / CONS
1. Larger water volume - more stable but harder to feed.
2. Difficult to clean.
3. Sponge filter could be problematic.
4. No grow out tank needed.
What do you chaps think? Have I missed something?
Hi
So here are my Seahorse fry tank setup ideas.
1.
http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=3782
Size 12' x 12' x 20'
Remind you of something? Well got the idea whilst working on my Brine shrimp hatcheries. It will have painted top sides and lid to prevent the BBS from going to the surface for light and rather move lower into the water column, preventing the baby seahorse from chasing them up to the surface and possible taking a lethal mouthfull air. A wooden air stone would be used to supply gentle air bubbles to oxygenate and move the water. I know you probably asking yourself "why just not a std flat bottom tank", well, with raising seahorse fry its important to clean the tank regually, ridding it from any crap on the bottom, which is painfull, with this system it would just sink to the bottom wher it could just be drained off by opening a small valve and them topping up with NSW... Water movement can be adjusted either by controlling the amount of air or by lifting the air stone closer to the surface, so ensure the crap settles.
PROS / CONS
1. Easy to clean with no vacuuming needed
2. Smaller water volume ensures better food to water ratio - better feeding.
3. No water pump required
4. Will still need a grow out tank.
5. More regular water changes
2.
Well its a Std tank with a pipeover flow with a very large sponge filter in the middle, so that there is more surface area for the water flow thru without causing a suction that will hold a fry against it. return is normally along the two far sides.
PROS / CONS
1. Larger water volume - more stable but harder to feed.
2. Difficult to clean.
3. Sponge filter could be problematic.
4. No grow out tank needed.
What do you chaps think? Have I missed something?
Don't really know enough to make a meaningful comment, but the design makes sense. I do strongly believe tho, that if they are breeding you should try and learn as much as possible from other dedicated forums that could help spread their genes.
Thank guys, alot of them float on the surface for the 1st 2-3 weeks, but I have noticed the ones that swim around from day 1 have seemed to last longer. I would put some thin plastic plants in for them to hold fast to.
They both look good, I would consider making most of the sides of both tanks dark except for the bottom 10cms or so. This will as you pointed out in the 1st design concentrate the food towards the bottom. There are designs on the seahorse forums that you could get ideas from. As you pointed out some seahorses have a pelagic stage in the beginning and one of the designs I saw actually produced a gentle current to maximise the feeding during the pelagic stage. Other seahorses are benthic from birth and would benefit from the darkened sides except for the bottom 10cms or so as this would maximise the feeding opportunities for these babies. Also food size, quality and quantity will be a big factor. There is a chart showing the species of seahorses with pelagic and benthic young and indicating the length of time for the pelagic stage but I can't remember where.
I doubt if the young would get tangled in Chaeto but could be wrong. If in doubt then it is probably best to leave it out.
I doubt if the young would get tangled in Chaeto but could be wrong. If in doubt then it is probably best to leave it out.
I saw the male tiger tail flushing its pouch this morning and last night its pouch looked slightly fuller so hopefully it will be my turn with the seahorse fry soon.
Any update on the new fry