Tank Size

Kanga, help Bruce out with some plumbing tips please :D
 
Brucemg said:
Thanks guys Im busy googling but there isnt much when it comes to a schematic diagram showing the basics
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Give me a couple of minutes, didnt see this sorry
 
6547a2231dbf6f9.jpg

Here we go Bruce, its very Basic, but will work a charm.
 
Good one, Kanga.

Bruce, regarding the rest of your question - place a valve between the return pump and return line. This will allow you to adjust the flow rate. Also agg unions wherever you have equipment that you would want to remove (such as the return pump), it just makes it so much easier when you need to clean that equipment.

To "upgrade" Kanga's sketch, you could add a "T" and second valve to the return line just above the sump, as you will someday need to add a phosphate reactor, calcium reactor, chiller, or something ??? to the system, and then the plumbing for it is already done.

Depending on the type of skimmer, you could also keep the skimmer outside the sump, and plumb on of the down flow pipes directly to it and then have the skimmer discharge into the sump.

Lastly, if you are still in the planning stage, I would recommend that you have the tank drilled for a closed-loop system as well.

Hennie
 
Hey guys thanks now Im getting some where, still bumpy road before I place my order at the LFS.
Must tell you, thanks to all of you and all the advise Im starting to understand slowly but surly.Once Ive got all the ducks in a row and I feel comfortable then there is a exciting journey in the world of marine for me. But dont despair as soon as I dont know or need to understand something Ill be knocking.
 
Hi Kanga Thanks for the drawing. On the supply side to sump, water flows in the dispaly to the over flow box thus top water is been returned to the sump. I thought water return to sump should be from the bottom to remove most debris which settles at the bottom.
 
Brucemg said:
Hi Kanga Thanks for the drawing. On the supply side to sump, water flows in the dispaly to the over flow box thus top water is been returned to the sump. I thought water return to sump should be from the bottom to remove most debris which settles at the bottom.
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Nope definately the top, problem is if it is from the bottom and the power goes out it will drain until it reaches the level of your overflow/Durso pipes.

in an overflow it will just drain the water in the overflow, but you will have gurgling noises and also the noise from the drop from the overflow pane to the botoom of the overflow

This is how mine is set up 50mm pipe. 2 x Dursos the middle one is higher if anythig ever blocks the 2 x dursos its the back up

Dursos.jpg
 
Brucemg said:
Im thinking of DIY. Is it diffcult to build the tank or should I have the LFS build.
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No, it's very easy to build it yourself. Chances are, your DIY tank will be stronger than a LFS built one as well, after all, YOU will work carefully with your own tank, but the LFS will probably have one or two "wakas" do the work.

So the dursos returns water to the sump by means of gravity or pumping
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.
By gravity. The down-flow rate will be exactly the same is the return-pump delivery rate.

Does this mean there must be holes drilled in the bottom of the overflow.
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Yes.

Hennie
 
The durso's allow water to flow to the sump via gravity, in your sump you will have a return pump that will pump the water back up to the tank.

Yes, your overflow box will need to have holes drilled in it into which the durso's will be fitted in order to allow water to flow to the sump.
 
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