I am a beginner hobbyist and bought a Zetligh ZA1201 luminaire. It turns out that the instruction manual came in Japanese and I can not program it. Would anyone have the manual in English? Could send in my email "paulomoser@uol.com.br". Thank you.
I am a beginner hobbyist and bought a Zetligh ZA1201 luminaire. It turns out that the instruction manual came in Japanese and I can not program it. Would anyone have the manual in English? Could send in my email "paulomoser@uol.com.br". Thank you.
Hi Everyone, just quick question. Would a ZA1201 be sufficient for a softy only tank (Waterbox 20 gal)? Or would a bigger light like a ZT6500 be better to use?
Also depends a bit on the size of the tank...if you're talking 45cm cube ( roughly 24g) a 1201L would be just fine for softies and most lpsif you can add more light youd be better off, the ZA1201 is a very limited light and ZT6500 is discontunued, but a far better option than the ZA1201, you could also look at the UFO8300 if you are wanting to stick with zetlight. there are a number of other options out of the zetlight range that could also work well on that size.
if you can add more light youd be better off, the ZA1201 is a very limited light and ZT6500 is discontunued, but a far better option than the ZA1201, you could also look at the UFO8300 if you are wanting to stick with zetlight. there are a number of other options out of the zetlight range that could also work well on that size.
Also depends a bit on the size of the tank...if you're talking 45cm cube ( roughly 24g) a 1201L would be just fine for softies and most lps
Hi, any luck yet on settings? i have the same light and using the standard settings, tank looks fine but its still new thoughHi guys
Anyone got some recommendations on the best settings for the ZS7300?
Really eager to see how far or close I am.
i deffinatley think its the better option, it will give you far greater scope IMO, i would use it over the ZA1202 anyday@leslie hempel, Thank you, I have a ZT6500 in storage that I got previously for a planned bigger build, but as can happen life got in the way. I was just a bit concerned it may have been overkill on the tank as the mounting arms barely fit the tank. Thank you again.
Hi, yea it seems so, i sit with the same situation, im just using the normal light settings that came with the unit but i adjusted the times slightly, its only up and running for 2 weeks but all seems fine for now, lets home someone can give us some good settings who has experience with it.@bruce87 no one seems to want to offer their recommended settings.
I'm still struggling on how high or how low to adjust the settings.
I'm no export but I would imagine it depends on the size of the tank, what stock is in tank and how high above the water the unit is.
My details are:
Size of tank: 110cm(L) x 80cm(W) x 60cm(H)
Stock: 7 fish, 2 Shrimp and a few mushrooms, hammer, frogspawn and zoas on the sand bed.
Height of unit: 15cm above surface
Lets hope someone can help.
but i installed the correct settings, why are you wanting to change them........you have them hung up way to high to have any intensity to the bottom 30 cm from water level is what i recommended, that look slike 50 cm to meI'm new to this posting![]()
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. I have recently purchased 2 x ZS7300 for my 1.2m tank. Does anyone have the correct settings for coral growth? I have both SPS and LPS.
I need the time frames as well as the intensity. At the moment is a guess.
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Yeah, Radion for example recommend 22 to 27 cm. I would definitely drop them lower.As for the distance from water they are 38cm to be precise. Do you recommend I drop them more?
100%Yeah, Radion for example recommend 22 to 27 cm. I would definitely drop them lower.
Light is "funny". You loose a lot of punch over a short distance, a lot more than human eyes could perceive as different. T5 unit used to be installed very very close to the water. LED is installed more or less the same way as MH units due to the risks of water splashes mostly.
Ive had a zs7300 fall into the water. And its still running,I don't know how you guys manage to keep your Zetlight's going, I've had nothing but grief with mine, particularly the UFO light that I have on my Redsea Max130. The light only seems to last about 6 - 8 months and then it just goes haywire. This has been on 2 successive units. I've now gone back to T5's until I can find a more reliable LED unit, but not interested in the Zet light at all.
On my other tank I have the Zetlight 6600 and this keeps going through fans. I've replaced both fans twice in 3 years....................I guess you get what you pay for.
Busy looking at other makes of lights now or I might just go back to T5's. I bought into the LED system as I was spending a lot of money on T5 tubes and I thought I would save quite a bit of money changing to LED. In 3 years I have spent close on R20k on LED lighting for my small 220lt tank and my little Redsea 130lt tank. If I had kept to T5's, I would only have spent +/-R10k on tubes and still have a working light unit.
IMHO the only benefit of LED is that you can change the look of your tank without buying tubes, your tank runs a bit cooler, but nothing that a small fan or chiller units can't sort out. A decent LED unit price is quite scary and I can buy a lot of T5 tubes for the price of a decent LED light.
Ive had a zs7300 fall into the water. And its still running,
Ufo are known to be problatic with the fan so maybe in the enclosed red sea enviroment its not viable. Other than that i cant see why one would move away from zetlight