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You can email your photo's to me at ***

Last few days ago i have sent photos to the above e-mail but nevwer been posted? Is there any problem with my photos?
Recently i have also purchase 2 hermit craps, it really give some different to the tank.
 
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Last few days ago i have sent photos to the above e-mail but nevwer been posted? Is there any problem with my photos?
Recently i have also purchase 2 hermit craps, it really give some different to the tank.


Yeah Dean, what's up with that? :whistling:
 
Very sorry, I completely forgot about your photo's, I will post them later tonight.
 
Anyone know if distance for lighting matter? like my T8 tube is only about 6-7 inchs to the surface of the water, how many tube require(min)? If chiller was added, does it reduce the amount of adding water to tank (currently 3.5 l/day)?
 
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...Recently i think i found disease or parasite in my tank especially on the emperor angel fish. i have treated the tank with 14ml of copper tru to my 100 gal tank...

I have just purchase an anemous, why it sometime look like squeeze?

Do I understand this correctly - you added an anemone to a tank which was treated with copper? :nono:

Anemones are just as sensitive to copper as corals are, and it's quite likely that it is slowly dying due to copper poisoning.

Hennie
 
Do I understand this correctly - you added an anemone to a tank which was treated with copper? :nono:

Anemones are just as sensitive to copper as corals are, and it's quite likely that it is slowly dying due to copper poisoning.

Hennie
Copper treatment was done quite a while ago and not a big amount, water changes has been done already twice, carbon and phosphate sponge already in place.
 
Copper treatment was done quite a while ago and not a big amount, water changes has been done already twice, carbon and phosphate sponge already in place.


The general feeling is that copper actaully remains in the silicone and seeps out.
So copper is a NO go not even in minute quantites, you can try something like CupriSorb to try and get the copper levels down.
 
Anyone know the critirial of hermit crab? My two just die of invisibly. Anything that can cause the problem in my tank? Other fish (yellow tank, scopa, sailfin, damsels) seems ok till now.
 
The general feeling is that copper actaully remains in the silicone and seeps out.
So copper is a NO go not even in minute quantites, you can try something like CupriSorb to try and get the copper levels down.


Did you test for copper?eekx

There are other possibilities but check this first
 
Anyone know the critirial of hermit crab? My two just die of invisibly. Anything that can cause the problem in my tank? Other fish (yellow tank, scopa, sailfin, damsels) seems ok till now.

I would imagine the copper doeing killed the hermits, they are totally intolerant of it, so even in doses too small to detect, the traces remain.
 
I would imagine the copper doeing killed the hermits, they are totally intolerant of it, so even in doses too small to detect, the traces remain.


<<<<<<<<<<<<< agrees
 
Can anyone help me to set up the above fish only tank to accomadate with reef tank in the simplest and cheap way? so far, my fishes are living well and very happy.
Tank Size 4ft x 2ft x 2ft
Light 4=T8 x 4ft, 1=T8 x 4ft blue, 1=T8 x 2ft
Picture are as posted, not much changes.
 
Hi David - compliments of the new year to you! How are your hermits and the anemone doing now?

If you want to set this tank up as a Fish Only, you do not require much - I am sure that you have everything already that you need....

The only thing that I would change is your substrate - use sand or something similar with a particle size of between 0.1 to 2mm in size (maximum)..... Also - try and incorporate a DSB in your tank/sump (DSB = Deep Sand Bed - substrate MUST be between 120mm and 180mm - this assists in filtration).....

Everything else should be fine.... You already have a skimmer - good. You have perfect lighting for fish (for fish only you do not require much lighting) - good. You already have live rock to assist with filtration - good.

Then you should just decide on which fish to keep - and look at which fish are compatibly with your existing fish - that they do not quarrel too much and kill each other....
 
If you want to set this tank up as a Fish Only, you do not require much - I am sure that you have everything already that you need....

I think he wants to change to a REEF system...

Can anyone help me to set up the above fish only tank to accomadate with reef tank in the simplest and cheap way

OK, a few items to consider:
  • Remove all the filter floss / sponge / bio-balls in the sump.
  • Replace the large crushed coral substrate with a fine sea sand to a depth of about 150mm, in the sump and also preferably in tank.
  • Move the skimmer pump into the first chamber (where the water enters the sump).
  • Add a light (could be one or two power-saver compact fluorescents...) above the centre compartment in the sump, and add Chaetomorpha (preferably) or Caulerpa algae to this compartment.
  • Replace your normal output (T8) lamps with either T5 fluorescents, or metal halide lamps - 2 x 150W MH's will be more than enough.
  • Add one more power head if the water flow is not currently causing good water movement everywhere in the tank.
  • Buy the necessary test kits, if you don't have them already - you will need to test for pH, alkalinity/carbonate hardness, calcium, nitrate, phosphate (also ammonium and nitrite for the first 2-3 months...)
That's about it - IF you don't have any copper in the live rock (as jacquesb asked, how are the anemone and hermits doing - if OK, then you probably don't have copper...)

Oh, and you will have to do regular partial water changes, and perhaps add calcium and alkalinity on a regular basis as well.


Good luck.
Hennie
 
thanks for the commands everyone, when changing the substrate to sand, will this raise my ammonium imediately? at this moment i still having the bottom suction flow in the tank, the top DIY over flow was not so go. Any idea?
Live sand is not easily get over here. Any good method or procedure to introduce sand into the tank without harming the fish?
 
... when changing the substrate to sand, will this raise my ammonium imediately?

Just do things SLOWLY - remove (say) 25% of the crushed coral on day one and replace with sea sand, leave the tank to stabilize for a week or two (check ammonium and nitrite levels), then remove a second 25%, wait two weeks, then do another 25%...

Also never make more than one change at a time... I would spend 2 months to replace the substrate, then remove the filter floss, sponge, bio balls in 25% - 30% increments over another month or so. Remember that only BAD things happen QUICKLY, all good things take time ;)

... at this moment i still having the bottom suction flow in the tank, the top DIY over flow was not so go. Any idea?

Not sure what you mean with "bottom suction flow" - can you please explain

Live sand is not easily get over here.

If you can use normal fine sea sand that would work very well - alternatively, any fine quartz (silica) sand would also work fine, as long as it's a natural river or pit sand. I'm not sure if commercial "play sand" is available in your country, but that would be ideal...

Hennie
 
bottom suction means the water will suck through the bottom of the tank partition like the filter instead of free flow from the top.
Another thing is at the bottom of the tank, i still have the under gravel filter at my whole tank bed, do i need to remove that as well?
 
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