Kalk slurry method

Can you explain this please Rod. What is CaCo3?

Palmerc, thanks. Is there a preset or recommended amount of vinegar to add to kalkwasser? If we work off 2 litres of RO water, how many ml or grams of kalk and how many ml of vinegar should we add?


Hi Dean,

The amount of kalkpowder you need to add depends on your calcium usage rate. One gram of kalkpowder will raise calcium levels by around 5ppm in 100litres of water.

So if your calcium utilisation rate is say 30ppm for a 600 litre tank per week, you need to add (30/5) *(600/100) = about 36g of kalk powder per week (or around 20litres of saturated kalkwasser per week)

Now if you want to dissolve the kalk powder using vinegar you will still need to use the same amount of kalk powder you have calculated above. To fully convert 1 gram of kalkpowder to calcium acetate (using vinegar which is about 6% acetic acid) you will need to use about 27ml of vinegar per gram of kalkpowder (or about 1 litre of vinegar for the 36g weekly requirement in the example above).

The obvious advantage to this method is the smaller volume of liquid you will be adding (1litre vs 20litres), safer as pH will be slightly acid as opposed to highly alkaline, and you can add this quantity relatively quickly if you need to. No ionic imbalance with long term use.

Possible disadvantages - Won't get the benfits of phosphate reduction when using kalkwasser. Also kalkwasser is self-purifying (all contaminants precipitate out due to the high pH) but if you use a low grade kalk powder with the vinegar method you will be adding contaminants.

The other thing to bear in mind is that acetate is a carbon source. It can be converted to alkalinity equivalents, but some will also be utilised by bacteria for growth. Now I am not sure if that is a good thing or bad thing, but to me it seems similar to the vodka method and I would therefore be quite wary in adding such a huge amount of a carbon source to my tank.

My opinion - If you want to use kalk then use it as kalkwasser - has a lot more benefits. If you want to use something to raise Ca easily and quickly then use a calcium chloride based product rather than a mix of vinegar and kalkwasser. Only negative is a possible ionic imbalance (chloride increasing realtive to the other major ions) but this is easily corretced with regular water changes (and there is really no evidence that this is actually a concern anyway)

We spend lots of money on our tanks and spend good money on top quality additives. Now why would someone then want to add an unknown factor (vinegar) to the mix.

Anyway I hope that long ramble makes sense.....
 
Rod - it is a method that european reefers has been using for a number of years.

Essentially it is a 3 part liquid calcium supplement.

Calcium cloride for Cal
Carbonates for Kh
Magnesium chloride for Mg

This is added in a balanced manner to account for the consumption in the tank.

This allows precise manipulation of the tank parameters and also higher levels than would be normally possible with a cal rx or kalkwasser. This is especially usefull when you have a tank full of hungry Sps.

The concerns raised of ionic imbalances and increased salinity is realy a non-event due to water changes.

Further more trace elements ,amino acids , etc kan be dosed very easily this way by just adding it to the mixes.

Some more reading here:

http://www.faunamarin.de/eng/manual_balling-methode.php
 
How long did it take you to find the optimum dosing rate?

Also, do you dose the calcium and buffer in equivalent quantities (i.e. 2 moles bicarbonate to one mole calcium) , or do you dose more of one than the other.

Reason I ask is that I've found alkalinity is consumed faster than calcium, and the balling method is nice in that these two parameters can be customised to your specific set-up, unlike using a calcium reactor or kalkwasser or one part balanced additives like Red Sea Calc
 
A calcium reactor is a better and much easier option .
This i agree, but there are many folk out there that cannot fork out the money for a CArx and i believe we need some cheaper alternatives that work just as well and may be a bit more labour intensive. Now most of the 2 part or 3 part additives do work, but on a large system can cost an arm and a leg because of the quantities you have to use. Thus i brought up the slurry method, i have been adding the slurry to my system for a few days now, will report back in a week or so on the effects it has had on the system. The slurry is used to raise calcium only and results in very little waste of Calcium Hydroxide.
 
I am just starting out. I have a 130l all in one tank (boyu). I do not get much evaporation. What would you suggest as kalk slurry make up & how often ?

 
Sorry, missed the post a few days ago my bad. The slurry is working better than i expected and is maintaining my ca levels at 420. First off do you have a system that has a high ca demand, SPS, clams and LPS? This method of ca addition must be used carefully and is not one i would recommend for new aquarists.
 
I am very new and just starting out. I have few corals (a few Zoanthids and a couple of small mushrooms), but would like to have many in the future. I started dosing Kalkwasser, 1/4 teaspoon to 1L RO, dripping it in.
 
For the corals you have at the moment that is fine, just watch the ca levels as you dont have any high ca demanding corals at the moment. What is you ca reading at the moment?
 
It's been a while since this thread has been bumped. Does anyone have any updates? Also, where's Rod these days? Around a year ago I was doing the slurry method on my 225g with great success. Here are a few before & after pics:
225ReefPics01-12-2010023.jpg

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Before2.jpg

After.jpg

225ReefPics01-12-2010009.jpg

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225ReefPics01-12-2010026.jpg

025-2.jpg
 
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Yip i still use it and we are now a few years down the line, never had any issues with regards to CA or ALK. I have changed the recipe a bit and do use white 5% vinegar in my mix.
 
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I have never understood the debate about whether to just toss your kalk in or drip it in over a few hours !! Surely both take the same ammount of effort yet the drip method (at night) will always be safer and result in better kalk conversion to usable calcium in the long run :thumbup:
 
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