Mike
Retired Moderator
Make sure there is good flow around it then, sorry i'm just trying to find the source of the problem.
Cyano Psycho
- Thread starter mnd123
- Start date
Make sure there is good flow around it then, sorry i'm just trying to find the source of the problem.
and I sincerely appreciate your help!
Loads of flow as it is in a small chamber - I will monitor for a few days and remove if no change with the lights - one thing at a time as if I get it right I want to know what it was, for my sake and for anyone else that has cyano issues
oh, and Mike, thanks for the thought in your sig....
I will NOT let these BASTARDS get me down
I will NOT let these BASTARDS get me down
Mike
Retired Moderator
oh, and Mike, thanks for the thought in your sig....
I will NOT let these BASTARDS get me down
Good man, just keep working on the water perams, the cyano has to feed so you need to starve it out. (and hoover it out)
Are you running a CaRx ?
This salt has a relatively low Alk and may be causing your low levels, I would suggest increasing the levels.
I also had similar problems in the first 6 months of my tanks life and was told to leave my light on in my DSB 24/7 and increase my alkalinity. Used Seachem Reef Carbonate and still dose it every week. Been cyano clear for a long time now.
Mike
Retired Moderator
PH (alkalinity) which should be 8-8.5
martin
Reef Adict
Right - time for some to shoot me for what I am about to say but I did it and advised others who also had success:
Over a week period
Magnesium up to 1600
Alk up to 10+
All pumps facing up 45deg for surface movement
Use Aqua Medic Anti Red but only 75% of required dosages.
Skim very wet.
Lights down to 70% of time.
Syphon out as much as possible.
Sit back and enjoy after about 4 days whilst using ample phos remover continually after correction, dsb, scrubber and cheato.
Correct mg alk and lights or a week but I suggest leave pumps for surface movement as airstone does zip.
Some don't believe in the Anti Red and yes it works but it is a short term solution if po4 / oxygen not managed continually.
On my PDA as usual and tired so pls excuse spelling etc.
Over a week period
Magnesium up to 1600
Alk up to 10+
All pumps facing up 45deg for surface movement
Use Aqua Medic Anti Red but only 75% of required dosages.
Skim very wet.
Lights down to 70% of time.
Syphon out as much as possible.
Sit back and enjoy after about 4 days whilst using ample phos remover continually after correction, dsb, scrubber and cheato.
Correct mg alk and lights or a week but I suggest leave pumps for surface movement as airstone does zip.
Some don't believe in the Anti Red and yes it works but it is a short term solution if po4 / oxygen not managed continually.
On my PDA as usual and tired so pls excuse spelling etc.
Interesting, one thing I DID change now that I think about it was go from a 24/7 DSB lighting cycle to 9PM-9AM reverse cycle as my chaeto was not growing.... Hmmmmm
Kanga
Retired Moderator
The thing with AntiRed and product like it is not that it is harmfull to your system, but it does kill a large chunk of biomass in your tank (the cyano)
You then have dead and decaying cyano creating a whole new set of problems.
Rather find the cause of the problem and sort that out
Here is a decent read on cyano http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/wiki/index.php/Cyanobacteria
I am loathe to use ANY form of medicines etc in my tank, and as Kanga says, I really want to know what brought this on - we *think* it's the fact I upgraded my lights.
Kanga
Retired Moderator
MND it quite likely/possible that the upgraded lights have highlighted the problem.
I did 3 things to rid my previous system of cyano, skimmed wetter, had filter floss on my overflow to "catch" cyano that was blown off rocks, and used a turkeybaster to blow it off the rocks.
It took time but hey that sorted it.
Also make sure your flow is strong enough over the rocks.
Update.
Do not want to speak too soon, but I think I am winning. Did another 15% water change the w/end and siphoned most of the crap off, dropped my photoperiod to under 8 hours (whites - left actinics on as per Mike), also added the floss to the sump as per Kanga (ta for that) and I am seeing very little regrowth....
Holding thumbs.....
Do not want to speak too soon, but I think I am winning. Did another 15% water change the w/end and siphoned most of the crap off, dropped my photoperiod to under 8 hours (whites - left actinics on as per Mike), also added the floss to the sump as per Kanga (ta for that) and I am seeing very little regrowth....
Holding thumbs.....
Woohoo, good stuff Marc! So there was no need to up alkalinity then?
Mouse, I did add a ton of buffer, but am concerned that my Ph will go up - it is at 8.5 already. Good question though, lemme do a test and check the dKH - the Reef Pro salt has a low dKH I understand...
Thanks for all your thoughts on PM by the way, most helpful
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NP! Glad it's working
I had a serious cyano problem when I just started off, probabily due to the last of flow but after reducing my photo period/feeding and increased my oxygen supply I still had no results so, (this bit is what all dread), I emptied the substrate, washed it in warm water to scrub the cyano off. After that I had no regrowth. A hard way to do things!
nearly got to that point and was seriously considering BB, but cannot do what you did without seriously disrupting my tank - it is 9 months old