Cyano Psycho

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Hi all,

I have been battling a very bad Cyano outbreak since I upgraded my lights, I have really tried a lot of things and just want to make sure that I get all my bases covered. I upgraded from 2 x T8s to 6 x T5's (2 x Giesemann 15000K, 2 x Giesemann Pure Actinic, 2 x ATI 8000K) all done over a period of about 3 weeks. It is starting to cover my stars, my hammer, my goniopora and now my zoos and I do not want to lose anything!

So far I have:

1) Pointed my powerheads at the worst areas directly, it seems to enjoy this and waves in the breeze at me, other than that no change
2) Done 2 x 25% water changes in a week
3) Put a Carbon reactor (DIY) in the sump and change it every 3 days
4) Put airstones in the sump
5) Siphoned the Cyano out at every waterchange
6) Started skimming very wet

My readings are good, all done with Tropic Marin test kits:

NO2 = 0ppm
NO3 = 0ppm
NH3 = 0ppm
PO4 = 0ppm (done with Tropic Marin and Salifert)
Ca = 402ppm
Mg = 1200ppm
Temp = 26
Salinity = 1.024
Ph = 8.5
Alk = 7


As far as I can see above, and the fact that algae does not live long I do not have an issue with my readings, and they have been stable for 6 months. Only ones I am worried about are Alk and Ph

Tank is 1200x450x450 and I have 3 x SEIO m820's in the tank (3200l/hour) and a Astro 3000 return rated at 1900l/hour (with a 1m head), so flow is not my pain

I use Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt, and only use RO from my Waterboy Evolution, TDS=0ppm according to test pen.

Having said all of that, it does seem to be that the Cyano is starting to mat and go a little brown, and stringing all over the place (which I think means I may be winning), but it is so bad that I do not really see that I am winning - does anyone have anything else that I can try?

I have been looking at an algae scrubber from some of the other threads, will this help?

Thanks!

Marc
 

dallasg

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taggin along, my tank is still in the first days
 

jacquesb

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Marc - SOMETHING must be "feeding" the cyano in your tank. So, I would definitely say that an algae scrubber will help.....

BUT, you must also find the main source of the "food", feeding the cyano.

Cyano is bacteria, as you know. Bacteria with chlorophyl in it - that's why cyano responds to light.....
I know that you show that you BARELY have any nutrients in the water.... but, this could be "used up" by the cyano, from the water.... BUT, there might be detritus or other organics leaching out localized nutrients....

Try and use either a turkey baster, or a loose power-head.... and blow a stream of water in the area where the cyano is located..... firstly, blow the cyano off, then see if you can see "detritus" (dust) that comes out off/from the area where the cyano was....

If this is the case, then that would most likely be your cause....
 

Mike

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It could be that the P04 is being used up by the cyano before it hits your test kit,
how long are your lights on for?
how old is your sand bed and where did you get it from?
can you syphon off the worst of it when you do water changes - though stick to 10% at a time as any more might be affecting your chemistry,
have you tested the newly mixed water before adding?
what do you feed your fish and how much?
 
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It could be that the P04 is being used up by the cyano before it hits your test kit,
how long are your lights on for?
how old is your sand bed and where did you get it from?
can you syphon off the worst of it when you do water changes - though stick to 10% at a time as any more might be affecting your chemistry,
have you tested the newly mixed water before adding?
what do you feed your fish and how much?
Was going to say try running some sort of PO4 remover too.
 
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Marc - SOMETHING must be "feeding" the cyano in your tank. So, I would definitely say that an algae scrubber will help.....

BUT, you must also find the main source of the "food", feeding the cyano.
Jaques, thanks for thoughts - I even stopped feeding my fish and corals for a few days - no change. There is a certain amount of detritus on the substrate in areas, but I vacuum the substrate at every water change at the moment (and that has been every 4 days recently)

Cyano is bacteria, as you know. Bacteria with chlorophyl in it - that's why cyano responds to light.....
I know that you show that you BARELY have any nutrients in the water.... but, this could be "used up" by the cyano, from the water.... BUT, there might be detritus or other organics leaching out localized nutrients....
I have tried to clear up as much as possible and I have a refugium with LR and 2 x DSB's (one is aragonite, the other playsand) and a large amount of Chaeto (which does not grow as the nutrients are not good enough - I had to get more as my first "ball" stayed the same size.)


Try and use either a turkey baster, or a loose power-head.... and blow a stream of water in the area where the cyano is located..... firstly, blow the cyano off, then see if you can see "detritus" (dust) that comes out off/from the area where the cyano was....

If this is the case, then that would most likely be your cause....
I am very anti blowing this stuff off as it settles elsewhere - but yes there is a bit of detritus, but as I said I do siphon.. also there is no detritus on the rocks, overflow perspex and powerheads and they have a healthy "wig" of Cyano.....
 
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It could be that the P04 is being used up by the cyano before it hits your test kit,
Mike I have been testing my PO4 for months every week and always 0ppm, I have no algae issues and as I said this started when I upgraded my lights - also where would it come from? I started at 0ppm and have always been there - I am VERY particular about my RO and change filters at regular intervals

how long are your lights on for?
This is a good one and was something I wondered about. My actinics come on at 9AM, the whites at 10AM - whites off at 8PM and actinics off at 9PM. Fuge is on a reverse cycle, and is 9PM to 9AM

how old is your sand bed and where did you get it from?
Sand bed in the tank I bought with the tank new from LFS, seeded from scratch wihen I cycled. DSB's - playsand no seeding, aragonite was bought from LFS unseeded too.

can you syphon off the worst of it when you do water changes - though stick to 10% at a time as any more might be affecting your chemistry,
I do this every time I do a water change now - take all of it out - its back within 3 days

have you tested the newly mixed water before adding?
I have not, I could try this, I test my RO every time I make salt water at 0ppm and I use GOOD salt (I am told :)), so cannot see why this would be an issue?

what do you feed your fish and how much?
Feed my fish a mix, once a day, some days Dr Basslers pellets, sometimes flake, sometime Mysis - always just enough for the fish (small load - 2 small tangs, 2 false percs and 6 line as well as 4 shrimps and a few hermits) to eat in a few minutes. I do feed my Goniopora a mix of cyclopeez (about 1/4 teaspoon) or Zoplan (same amount) every day or so with a plastic cover and then let it free for the rest of the feeders - and I feed my brain a small fish one a week or so.
 

Mike

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I have a Phos reactor (again DIY) in sump with Phosban
When was the last time you changed the phosban?

Turn the photo period down a bit, the change from T8's to T5's may have kicked off a dormant problem, cool it down a little by halving the photo period, than over a few weeks bring it back up, i'd go for no more than 8 hours for the main lights, the actinics leave as is.
 
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When was the last time you changed the phosban?
About 4-5 months ago

Turn the photo period down a bit, the change from T8's to T5's may have kicked off a dormant problem, cool it down a little by halving the photo period, than over a few weeks bring it back up, i'd go for no more than 8 hours for the main lights, the actinics leave as is.
OK, will do, I was a little worried about the lights to be frank....
 
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Can you post a picture so we can have a look ?
Pictures of my pain???? That is cruel ;)

As you can see from these 2 shots, the tank is covered (and this is after a cleanup the day before!!) Note the hammer and Goniopora half closed because of it and the poor Zoas covered

100_3104.jpg


100_3105.jpg


On the ground

100_3106.jpg


On the rocks and perspex

100_3107.jpg


Even on the power heads!

100_3108.jpg


In this pic you can see that it is turning brown and going "stringy" - am I winning?

100_3109.jpg
 
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Mike

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your substrate is very coarse, this may not be helping as it can trap detritus, relacing it wouldn't be easy but not impossible.
Replace the phosban, as for as i'm aware it will only last a couple of months, after that it can leach P04 back into the tank.
 
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Nope, can you give me some more info on this, as I know nothing about it?

Is there a test kit available and what are the ramifications of the silicates in the system?

Ta mate
Silicates will fuel cyano and can be introduced into the system from substrates, it has even been suggested that playsand can be a cause.

Seachem have a silicate kit
 
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your substrate is very coarse, this may not be helping as it can trap detritus, relacing it wouldn't be easy but not impossible.
Replace the phosban, as for as i'm aware it will only last a couple of months, after that it can leach P04 back into the tank.
Whats the definition of coarse? Mine is 1-2mm grains of fine CC

100_3113.jpg
 

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