An In depth approach to Lighting

I have spent lots of time and bucks in the last couple of months on lighting. For years I have been running 400w metal halides 20k with magnetic ballasts. These lights rock but a heavy on electricity bills. I changed to 10t5, running all Giesemann bulbs, but that got thrown out after 1 month. I personally dont like t5 only tank, I might a bit blind. I than went for 250w BLV 14k SE with magnetic ballast in just an of the shelf pendant. Its still currently running and me love it, gives nice colour not too blue and very bright. Well know I got myself the real thing I dreamt about having for years, The Aquamedic Sunlight, 2x250w DE, 4x54 t5 pendant. They call it the Sunlight as thing is very bright and pwerfull. One has to experiment when it comes to lighting to see what works for you and the type of coral you want to keep. If you want to go the t5 for me only the most expensive bulbs seem to work, you might get a shock when yu here those prices.
True the ati's and giesemann are the best but cost a pretty penny or two....

I've been doing a bit of reading about this because I'm also a skeptic on having a bunch of T5's and T8's to get high lighting requirements. But the way that I see it is that there is a lot more to the lighting requirement. Essentially our aim is to try to simulate sunlight (when lighting is concerned) and its effect at the sea bed. And this brings a whole lot of factors into account. We need to account for not just the intensity of light but I'm sure the spectrum of light that enters the tank. In this case I think is when MH's "shines out" from the rest. I know for a fact that water absorbs certain spectrum of light so this could also have a slight factor for deeper tanks. And I'm also not too sure what is the spectrum of light in terms of non visible rays from lamps. This I still need to look up.

Yes our closest measure comes from plant growth spectrum usage and is called PAR,now different globes produce different PAR and this is where it can get complicated as you need a PAR meter...now even this system is flawed as it is now believed that corals use a spectrum of light more in the PUR range so here testing kits etc are very very out of reach so for now unfortunately we cant go that deep into the exact details:p,In real world conditions though results seem to indicate that the more lumens a bulb produces then the more PAR/PUR it produces in general(although globes like ati and giesemann are the exception and produce a bit more PUR per lumen) so for the purpose of lighting a reef tank without becoming a mad scientist with expensive PUR meters etc who wants to find out how deep the rabbits hole really is:eek: we just assume it to safe levels and use it with success.Alot of people have now raised these questions with regard to LED's and many are experimenting with the 420-470nm actinic blue wavelengths(this is where your actinics peak-also the wavelength that gets passed through the easiest through water).

The reason for this is simple,fluorescents and mh that peak in a certain wavelength still give of lower levels of light in other areas of the spectrum like red,green etc but leds ALMOST ONLY give of light in a specific wavelength so now this forces us to start closely evaluating the actual spectrum needs of our corals and many are setting up experiments to show how much of each spectrum is ideal for corals to thrive especially sps,so far its been difficult to pinpoint as most results seem to show that certain colours like red are needed but only in a small portion which is hard to quantify since even LED's of the same make and model etc will give of different quantities of light per watt FOR DIFFERENT COLOURS!


I've also been doing a bit of reading in terms of the definition of the parameter Lumens and what I can gather is that its the intensity (luminous flux) of light multiplied by the "area" at which it shines on. I'm not going to any detail but I think this is what's also misleading when it comes to looking at this parameter for aquariums. Because the "area" at which light is emitted for a flourescent light bulb is essentially more than a MH (since the light is directed downwards) which is maybe why the intensity of light in terms of lumens is more for the MH than for an equivalent set of T5's and T8's in a marine aquarium.

I feel that its NOT misleading at all its a standard and gives the light a proper measurable value irrespective of if its a point source of light(mh) or a larger area that the light is being rendered from.The only time this will become a factor to consider is due to tank dimensions as in certain deeper tanks it becomes easier to provide enough even with t5 especially if the tank is very wide,when the tank is narrower yet deep then the point source(mh) becomes more practical...coral/anemone placement would also determine this as anemones like magnificas benefit more from a mh directly above it than t5 above it.

Remember t5 is also directed downward using reflectors so its simply a matter of the usage situation.
 
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If you want to know more on lighting check out Proff. Sanjay Joshi articles on lighting in the online Adavanced Aquariast Magazine. This guy a master in lighting well his favourite has to be the metal halides. He as many articles written sometimes too difficult for me to grasp but might help lots guys out regarding this topic.
 
yes he has given lots of invaluable input to the science behind lighting up a reef!
just be careful with older articles of his or anyone else as our understanding changes over the years and so does technology so don't take that article written ten years ago by a master as gold,rather see his most recent standing and views.
 
I would like to know, on a 1.6 m x 750 x 850 water level on about 820/830mm , what would be the best MH unit to get?

Would i buy a MH unit that has 4 T5's : 1 pink, 1 atinic, 1 blue, and 1 atininc + (not sure exactly what the giesmanns tubes names are) , some led moonlights for the evenings, and then make the MH bulbs 14k and 10k ? , or what config would be best to use?
 
I would suggest as a minimum ATLEAST 3x250w mh or 2x400w mh and 4 x 54w or 4x80wt5's in that size and depth of tank.

Personally I would run 3 x 250w and 4 x 80w as this should result in good spread and enough par at all levels in the tank. but a unit with 2 x 400w and 4x54w t5 would work well also maybe just need to be mounted a bit higher for spread or if you have two island style rock work features under each bulb then it could work well also.

As for colour of the globes i.e actinic,pink,14k,10k,blue(also known as 20k) well its more a matter of aesthetics and what suits your preference,here my only advice would be that you try to incorporate as wide range of spectrum as possible but try to get the average between 12-14k so have some 10k as well as some actinic as the extremes of the colour range,most globes can be around 14k.

so for example have 14k for your mh and then have 2 pure actinic t5 and 2 10k t5.OR maybe 10k mh and then 2 actinic and 2 pure actinic on the t5's.
 
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Hi Guys,

I need some advise on my lighting, i currently have a 3x 54w T5 Unit. My water depth is sitting at 600mm, I have a wooden hood which is resting on the rim of my glass. the Total Height of the glass is at 700mm. the Tank is 1200mm in width and 450mm in depth

What would be the best thing to do in my case ? Sell off my Unit ? or just supplement it with MH ? or go all t5

I would like to keep some sps eventually at mid to high of the tank

I would also like to use minimal energy consumption for the Most Effective Look ie bright colours and great coral growth

Your input will be appreciated!!
 
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Hi Guys,

I need some advise on my lighting, i currently have a 3x 54w T5 Unit. My water depth is sitting at 600mm, I have a wooden hood which is resting on the rim of my glass. the Total Height of the glass is at 700mm. the Tank is 1200mm in width and 450mm in depth

What would be the best thing to do in my case ? Sell off my Unit ? or just supplement it with MH ? or go all t5

I would like to keep some sps eventually at mid to high of the tank

I would also like to use minimal energy consumption for the Most Effective Look ie bright colours and great coral growth

Your input will be appreciated!!

hey there MR Rabbit

You would need around 350w-400w of mh or t5 for that size tank.

In a 1,2m tank I feel t5 just fits perfect(the 54w) so if you go that way 6-8 should be perfect,especially since you wont be placing sps/light demanding inmates on the bottom.

If you wanna go mh for whatever reason then maybe two 150w supplemented with two 54w t5 will be perfect.
 
hey there MR Rabbit

You would need around 350w-400w of mh or t5 for that size tank.

In a 1,2m tank I feel t5 just fits perfect(the 54w) so if you go that way 6-8 should be perfect,especially since you wont be placing sps/light demanding inmates on the bottom.

If you wanna go mh for whatever reason then maybe two 150w supplemented with two 54w t5 will be perfect.


What do you think about the 70w MH, I was thinking of adding 2 of these . My total wattage would be 304w. Having 2 additional 150 MH with my current unit will be a bit overkill dont you think ? I calculated this to be at 462w
 
What do you think about the 70w MH, I was thinking of adding 2 of these . My total wattage would be 304w. Having 2 additional 150 MH with my current unit will be a bit overkill dont you think ? I calculated this to be at 462w

not at all especially since you have a relatively deep tank at water level above 65cm the mh will punch nicely to the bottom....t5's will also work if you have enough.Serious sps keepers wouldn't have less than 450w in that size tank...but since you said you want to keep sps ONLY on the upper reaches i suggested 350w as a minimum.

If you want just remove one of the t5 tubes so that you hit around 408w which IMO is perfect for any corals/clams/anemones.(if magnifica then add the extra t5)

or get a 4x54w t5 unit and with seven t5's you should be cool to keep more demanding stuff near the top;)
 
I'm running my florescents on my refugeum at night and my blue led's on the DT. Should I be running the blue lights all night long? (During the day, I shut off the florescents on the refugeum, and run the white and blue on the DT.) I have an extra strip of (cheap) led blues, but they seem to give off more red light (looks like a purple/pinkish tint to it.) Aren't the red spectrum lights supposed to be bad? Are they good for anything?
 
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I'm running my florescents on my refugeum at night and my blue led's on the DT. Should I be running the blue lights all night long? (During the day, I shut off the florescents on the refugeum, and run the white and blue on the DT.) I have an extra strip of (cheap) led blues, but they seem to give off more red light (looks like a purple/pinkish tint to it.) Aren't the red spectrum lights supposed to be bad? Are they good for anything?


The blue lights are mainly for your own viewing pleasure,the tank inhabitants don't really need it at night but some people do run them at night...i personally don't.

What do you have in your refugium?If caulerpa then i suggest you run them 24/7 to prevent it going sexual.

Red in small doses is proving to be beneficial but too much has also been shown to inhibit growth so one strip is fine IMO;)
 
I just have cheato in my refugeum. The tang seems to like the blue lights on. If I turn them off he 'blushes'. Don't know if that's a stress reaction, or if it's a defense mechanism they use to try to make themselves darker to blend in?
 
I just have cheato in my refugeum. The tang seems to like the blue lights on. If I turn them off he 'blushes'. Don't know if that's a stress reaction, or if it's a defense mechanism they use to try to make themselves darker to blend in?

ok with cheato i would light it for around 14 hours per day.

What tang is it?most tangs normally appear pale at night,most likely so as not to attract attention to them when they are sleeping....so I dont think he is stressing at all.
 
It's just a yellow tang. His body gets darker inside, almost like he's got internal bleeding or bruising; but turn on the light and it soon goes back to normal. Freaked me out until I figured out it was from turning the lights off.
 
off topic
What do you have in your refugium?If caulerpa then i suggest you run them 24/7 to prevent it going sexual.
I had bubble type caulerpa. It crashed on my twice in 4 months. And both times it was during the day with lights on. Noticed it when I got back home. The morning it was still fine. This was on the shrimp tank, so no reverse cycle period.
 
Hi Falcon

I am running 8 t5 54watt light unit, what would be the best globes options to use(colour spectrum), currently its 4 blue and 4 white. Its the odysea standard unit...nothing fancy

I am only planning on keeping softies


Tank size is 1.5 l X 620 H x 600 W
 
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For softies you could keep the globes the units came with, nothing wrong with Odysea units.

When you upgrade your globes you can still do well with Sylvania, Aquamedic, as well as Red Sea. If you really want to play around with your colors then go for ATI globes which are by far the best but also more expensive. They will last you 18 months no problem.
 
Hi Alan

When i was at your place I noticed you had a pink globe , should i maybe look into changing one of the blues to pink, as i remmember with fresh water the pinks tend to bring out the colours

Kind regards
 
Hi Alan

When i was at your place I noticed you had a pink globe , should i maybe look into changing one of the blues to pink, as i remmember with fresh water the pinks tend to bring out the colours

Kind regards

A single pink will be ok to add contrast and make reds etc pop for viewing pleasure but it wont do much for actual growth so just one would do....
 
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