sun coral has not opened

Discussion in 'General Coral Care' started by ashley100, 13 Mar 2011.

  1. ashley100

    ashley100

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    My sun coral has not opened even once since i got it i have had it for about 4 weeks.
    I read that whole story about sun corals.(tubastraea sp everything you want to know). All i got out of it is that my sun coral is going to die (If, after several days and nights (sometimes a couple of weeks) of "wafting"the polyps still fail to show any sign of opening, its possible that the coral may no longer have sufficient energy remaining to expand, as a result the slow process of starvation will begin, along with tissue thinning and recession, eventually leading to death.)

    here is a pic and my water conditions
    i have the sun coral in a shady spot good or bad.
    water temp is 25-26
    salinity is 1.025
    ph 8.3
    po4 0.1mg/l
    no3 25mg/l
    no2 0.1mg/l
    nh3 0mg/l
    alkalinity 6

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. ashley100

    ashley100 Thread Starter

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    [​IMG]
     
  4. freek

    freek

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    @Jaco Schoeman

    It's not too late. I have recovered a couple of those. Jaco is closer to you and will help you.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  5. Kunhardt

    Kunhardt

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    It looks a little pale, but that may just be your pic? The heads at the back look like they could be dead, but i cant really tell from the pic. But other than that it still looks like the front heads are ok, you will see if it dies off there will be no flesh inside those tubes and the skeleton will start showing through.

    Have you tried enticing it to open? What are you feeding the tank? Try target feeding some one of the following if u arent feeding the tank... Cyclop-eeze, ON Nano coral Food or Marine Snow. Mix it up and target each head with it...this should hopefully entice it to open.

    The second colony I bought took a good few weeks before it settled in and opened up...could even have been close on 4, my first colony took 2 weeks before it opened and my newest one opened within days so I guess it all depends how quickly they acclimate to your system.
     
  6. ashley100

    ashley100 Thread Starter

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    i have tried to target feed the coral twice but i get no reaction. I use Zooplex . when i had it in the light the base started to go white so i moved it to a shady spot.


    [​IMG]
     
  7. Kunhardt

    Kunhardt

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    The light will do nothing to it contrary to popular belief...you can put it anywhere, its just found in caves in the wild for survival purposes with regard to feeding.

    Never used that product myself, but I take it its the same as the others, I would try every evening target feeding...try switching off the pumps or taking the sun coral out and placing it in a container with the food to try and stimulate it to open up.
     
  8. ashley100

    ashley100 Thread Starter

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    im gonna give it a try right now
     
  9. mnd123

    mnd123

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    Ashley, IMO you PO4, NO2 and NO3 are too high bud, how old is your tank and what filtration system do you have on it? Shouldn't really have an effect on the sun coral apart from phos but let's see what's what
     
  10. ashley100

    ashley100 Thread Starter

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    my tank is +- 2 years old, I got two types of filters one has a box thats stands out side the tank which has cotton and coal and the other goes a cross the top of my tank which has filter media in.

    why do you say my po4, NO2 and NO3 is to high here is a pic of the readings. The look good to me unless iv'e been doing it wrong the whole time HOPE NOT.[​IMG]

    and the container thing did not work ill give it another try tomorrow
     
  11. Ross

    Ross

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    How are you feeding the Sun?
    Do you leave it in the tank or float it in a container to try feed it.
    Try float it and give it a little Cyclopeeze or Marine Snow when main lights are out. This should make it want to come out and see what is what. Then try live brine or mysis feeding each head that is open a little.

    My suns would open a few heads but when the food got into to container, and a few got some, the others were soon willing to fight for it.

    Just before I go to bed, I would also give the container a little shot of Restorer (Brightwell)

    Is that the normal / common sun we get here. Was in Wild-on-Pets today and they have one like that, very pale and does not look like mine at all. Mine has much bigger skeleton.
     
  12. Kunhardt

    Kunhardt

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    That almost looks like a branching sun from the pic now that I have a second look at it.
     
  13. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    Yes Kunhardt, that you are right - it is not a Tubastrea but a Dendrophyllia sp. Not that the game changes, it's just the players... Technically it is not a suncoral, but to make it easier let us refer to it that way... ;)

    The bad news here however is that Dendrophyllia is much much more difficult to keep than Tubastrea. Black Suncoral is also a Dendrophyllia sp. and those who have kept it will agree.

    The problem with this specific suncoral you have, is that you cannot judge the health by looking at tissue loss. It does not stay orange though, but it also does not have that white skeleton that other suncorals have.

    So, I must admit yours is very very far from happy - but not dead. Many of the heads are very retracted but the mouths are still there, so there might be hope.

    I have read about the advise of taking it out into a container etc. but from my experience please do not do this. If you cannot handle the coral without touching any tissue, do not touch it at all. They are very sensitive to touch. If you touch a healthy Dendro then you leave a fingerprint on it and some tissue will in fact be left on your finger like dust. This can cause further damage and it takes long to regrow the lost tissue.

    So, in my opinion please revert from touching it - tubastrea is different as it has a softer tisseu, but still they generally do not like being handled much.

    So, unless you can handle it without touching the tissue then it is fine.

    Also, where suncorals are located in the wild, they are not tidal corals, so they do not fair well being exposed to air all the time. Try and keep them under water as much as you can.

    So, I would suggest going with the bottle feed method on this one. Place him on the substrate (dont worry about the light at all) and if it has polyps sticking in the sand, use a pvc pipe to lift it out like LFS does keeping LPS corals in their tanks.

    Then cut out the bottom piece of a 2l coke bottle to fit over it. The trick is to try and fit the bottle over it, without touching the suncoral as again, they do not like to be handled. Then you squirt food into the bottle and close the cap. Leave it for about 5-10mins, then open the cap just a tad. The flow will "move" the food around a bit in the bottle, then you cap the bottle again. After another 15minutes you can take the bottle off...

    Do not leave the bottle overnight for example, as you have 2 litres of water with huge amounts of food in it, so it will build up ammonia etc quite fast.

    You cannot save nor survive this coral by feeding it twice a week. You will have to feed this way at least once a day, and if time allows, twice or as much as you can.

    Leave it in that same spot, and keep on feeding, just dont give up.

    What to feed? A suncoral in this state is not able to capture food with it's tentacles - it is far too weak. It will not even open up it's tentacles, as it is too weak. This feeding with fitler feeding food is crucial now. It cannot capture brine or mysis, so dont even waste your time with it, unless you much it into a soup. Rather get some Brigtwells Amin-Omega, reef snow, phyto plankton and zoo plankton and mix it all up into a milk. Dont be shy.

    You will see the mouths swelling up nicely once the food is in the container. What the coral is doing then is basically "breathing" in the food. This will SLOWLY help it gain energy, and then after a few weeks you will notice some yellow dots as they tentacles start coming out. Then a few weeks later it will show some tentacles. Then you can start feeding live brine shrimp nauplii and cyclop-eeze.

    Only once the coral is able to capture prey in normal flow conditions, and opening up really well, would I suggest moving it to another spot. Remember again to handle with utmost care.

    This is not a quick fix coral - I promise you, I am still having problems with a suncoral that is over 1 1/2 years old, so have patience...

    Good luck and if you have questions, please feel free to ask...
     
  14. ashley100

    ashley100 Thread Starter

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    I got these 3 products what should i mix and can i mix it all together one shot.
    and i am going to do the bottle method tonight.

    thanks alot
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Kunhardt

    Kunhardt

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    No harm in using them all...think the brightwells and the kent are more or less the same thing anyway. The Restor will help I use it as well mixed with my coral food for sick corals and I have seen improvements in the past.

    I have a black suncoral as well, luckily I have never had issues with it feeding, it opened up within a few days of being in my tank, but I have noticed when I bought it it had a lot of white patches which have increased over time as well even though its feeding.

    Good luck with your coral, hope you have some success over the next few days. :)
     
  16. ashley100

    ashley100 Thread Starter

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    thanks
     
  17. durleo

    durleo

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    lets hope this coral recovers;)
     
  18. ashley100

    ashley100 Thread Starter

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    i dont wanna jump the gun to soon but have started seen on some of the heads some small tentacles have started coming out during feeding. I have been taking it out into a container for about 30 min every night for feeding. seems to be working
     
  19. erle_vaughan

    erle_vaughan

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    ey good luck!:thumbup:

    sounds like you got a winning team on your side!
     
  20. robertkukla

    robertkukla

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    as jaco said
    I would suggest going with the bottle feed method on this one. Place him on the substrate (dont worry about the light at all) and if it has polyps sticking in the sand, use a pvc pipe to lift it out like LFS does keeping LPS corals in their tanks.
    I have read about the advise of taking it out into a container etc. but from my experience please do not do this. If you cannot handle the coral without touching any tissue, do not touch it at all. They are very sensitive to touch. If you touch a healthy Dendro then you leave a fingerprint on it and some tissue will in fact be left on your finger like dust. This can cause further damage and it takes long to regrow the lost tissue.

    i think moving the coral around from container to tank will probably damage
     
  21. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    Aggreed Robert... If a coke bottle fits over it rather go that route... What you are doing now is like slitting someones wrist, letting him bleed a bit and then doing a blood transfusion on him. Then tomorrow you slit his wrist again etc. Remember that this is a LPS coral. Take any LPS like a frogspawn for example out of the water and place into a container every day and see how it fares healthwise.

    Rather just bottle it, get it back to great health and then you can move it to the original spot you want it. Light really has no affect on it, it will not do worse if you have it in light - dont stress about it. Flow, food and excellent water params are now the most crucial aspect you need to focus on.

    I am however pleased to hear that you are seeing a bit of life there!!! Keep up the good work!!! :thumbup:
     
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