Red algae, brown algae and hair algae

RenierMartens

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Ok I'm starting to have a algae problem

Thinking it's my light setup as all the parameters are in check

Salinity: 1.025
Temp: 25
KH: 9.5
NO2: 0
NO3: 0
PO4: 0
CA: 410
MG: 1290

Not overfeeding, Water changes of 5-7% per week
Water volume +- 1500L
Running Reef octopus 250int skimmer(Skimming perfect)
Also Running 2 54watt U.V's
DSB in sump
30kg of live rock in sump
100KG of base rock in main tank

Can anyone tell me what color spectrum causes algea
Running L.E.D's and here is a basic setup of the lights

Reds and greens and orange: 7am - 7pm
Blues: 9am - 9pm
Voilet: 9am - 11pm
Main whites(12000k) 11am - 7pm

Set it up like this as it gives the sun come up effect and going down

Recommendations? As this is the only reason I can think of why I'm getting an algae problem
 

trad

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So if you changing 150L of water a week (only using RO for changes and top up) then need to know how old the tank is?

Tests for PO4 are pretty useless as the algae + Phos removers will be taking it out in any case. So in other words if you have algae you have Phosphate.
 
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RenierMartens

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Changing around 85L a week.
The tank is only running for 2 months so it might just be a phase I have to go through.
The sand and the live rock was in my old tank for years though.

Will refuge help my problem...
I have a space for it, but I was told to wait as the algae will just turn white
 

trad

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You can setup a refuge if you want, It will help but it's not an instant or 100% fix for algae.

Your water changes are slightly less than ideal, I would every 4/6th week double up and do a 170l change. That way you can remove any accumulated build up of Phos. But make sure you're siphoning as much kuk out of the gravel etc as you can every time you do a water change.

and you need to get a Phosphate remover (Media in a bag or Reactor)

Yes your tank is still new so may just need some more time to settle, and if you only have fish I would reduce the lights by an hour or 3 (say in the morning if thats when you not home), all the the above should help over time.
 
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RenierMartens

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Will start the fuge as that is something I wanted anyway
Siphoning is up not an easy option in the tank dimensions I have
Will phosphate remover not starve the fuge then?
Got some corals as well

Thanks for your input
 

RenierMartens

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have 2 sicce silent 5000L/h return pumps and 2 vortech mp40s(Which is 17 000L/ph each)

So flow is allot more as your recommendation...

That is why I cannot understand why I'm having this issue
 
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trad

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Will phosphate remover not starve the fuge then?
Got some corals as well

Thanks for your input
Pleasure man, just trying to help.

Unlikely to be so effective to starve the fuge algae but if you can then you'd be doing a phenomenal job and then I'd just reduce the phos removal media.

I'd still reduce the lights for a while then to reduce the growth.

Strange then, flow is really good.

and don't underestimate the size of the water change.

I've spoken enough kuk, perhaps someone else can jump in...
 
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Taponi

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Excess Nutrients. Maybe a FTS so we can see where most accumulate would be a good start
 

Mr Dan

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Hi @RenierMartens sounds like you have a familiar problem so let me throw in my 2c .Firstly in any pristine natural reef you have heeps of algae the only reason you don't see it is because almost everything on the reef eats it , so to overcome the dt being filled with algae is give it another place to grow (fuge or scrubber) , reduce the amount of infrared from your lightingin the dt all the while increasing it in your fuge (just make sure that the algae has started to grow in your fuge first , after about 2 weeks the algae in the dt should become weak and you should be able to start syphoning it of the rocks (provided you have no infra red in your dt lighting ) Imo using reactors and supplements to remove nutrients from a tank is basically like putting a plaster on a gaping wound (they do have there place so don't shoot me ) algae has its place for natural nutrient removal so its not all bad and it provides a refuge for micro organisms (coral food ) good luck let us know what happens
 
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Mr Dan

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its the red in the lighting spectrum is what algae uses to photosynthesise , you will find it in the 12000k , red led and so on , you should be able to find it on google (the main thing is to get your fuge running)and be patient:thumbup:
 

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Maybe turn down the red and orange for now till you have your refuge up and running (there is quite a lot of guys not using refugiums with great success). Also cut down on your lighting period from 9:00am till 4 or 5:00pm for a month or so or till the algae has subsided. Then maybe look at orca bio cubes to help with nitrates etc. How many livestock and if any how much are you feeding? I had a similar issue a while back and reduced my feeding and my lighting period (some time leaving the lights off for a complete day) plus adjusted/re positioned my power heads. Also looked at adding algae munchers and then slowly everything came rite.
 

Mr Dan

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Hi all .I would think it an obvious observation that any algae bloom to be a result of a high nutrient load in the water , but merely changing the lighting spectrum in your tank is not going to remove the nutrient load in the water , although it will kill or weaken the algae (lighting spectrum) so imo if someone has a limited budget , enough space , not enough time and so forth why not use something that nature has already given us for free and that is algae in a refugium . Excluding all the other benefits of having a fuge the algae growing in the fuge act as a nutrient sponge and when you crop it you are physically removing phosphates and nitrates . We are all well aware that there is no quick fix when it comes to reef tanks the only thing that I will say is that the more natural our tanks are run the less problems it will give in the long run
 

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@RenierMartens is the red and brown algae slimy or hairy? A pic will help a lot if possible. @Mr Dan we all try to minimize the growth of algae in our display's and this means we introduce methods of keeping it under control by either flow, feeding methods and amounts, lighting, reactors etc. In the natural environment red only penetrates a couple of meters where blue penetrates the deepest. This means that algae grows mostly in shallower waters. As for our tanks by keeping red color spectrum as low as possible to discourage the growth of nuisance algae. That is why refugiums are nice to have as we can encourage growth of nuisance algae in our sumps to help control algae but there is also other means of controlling nuisance algae through reactors, orca bio cubes, algae turf scrubbers etc. I personally use a sump and I also believe in keeping it as simple as possible.
 

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