My Old 4ft Reef Attempt Upgrade

Discussion in 'Medium Tanks' started by Mario ArchTech, 11 Feb 2016.

  1. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech

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    Ok, So its time to improve on my tank setup. My first attempt was good but there is allot of room for improvement and better decisions to be made.

    The main reason for redoing my tank is that Me and my girlfriend decided its time to move into a bigger place since we are both finished with our studies and can now actually afford to do so.

    Our current place is a loft unit and noise was always a problem since there are no door or a divide between the bedroom and the tank. And all of you who has a wife or girlfriend can understand what I mean when I say that the girls do not like the noise of the tank, the water spills on the living room floor, tools lying around coz a LED unit does not get built in one day!!!

    Anyway enough complaining. The new place will have 2 bedrooms, one specifically for my tank and equipment, also for my other hobbies, and there will be a garage which means I can DIY late into the early mornings.

    So lets get cracking, although I must say this is not going to be a very fast build.

    Display Tank: 1200 x 600 x 620 (Ill be using the same tank)
    Sump: 1000 x 450 x 450 (3 Chamber sump)

    Stand: 1210 x 610 x 900 (38mm x 38mm x 2mm square tubing newly built and powder coated white. Did opt for galv. but I'm to afraid that the stand might warp or pull skew.)
    Any feedback will be appreciated.

    Lights: DIY LED Unit x 2. 24 x 3watt: 17 x Blue, 3 x Green, 4 x UV
    3 x 10watt: 2 x 15000K, 1 x Multichip(White and Blue Mix)
    LEDS will run on a dc 5 channel dimming controller.

    Light Rack: Custom 38 x 38 Square tube rack which will mount on the back of the tank stand. Lights will be suspended over the tank from the rack. (No more drilling into walls)

    Equipment:
    Skimmer: Bubble Magus Curve 5
    Flow Pump: 2 x Jebao RW-8
    Return Pump: Jebao DCT 4000
    Heater: Jager 300watt
    Will run a ATS again but it will be redesigned.

    The house move will begin during the remainder of this month. My current setup needs to be shut down and I will need to get temporary containers from plastic warehouse that will be able to keep all my current live stock alive.

    Will try to update as often as I can.
     
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  3. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Good luck first on the move.

    Then enjoy the tank build.

    On the galvanizing. I found that it warps when they remove it from the line. Still hot they just bliksem the stand down. Had a small stand, for a 60cm sump, on 10cm high feet, that they managed to warped. The frame was 50 by 20 mm tubing. How they managed to stuff up such a small stand is beyond me. Hopefully the shops down at the coast is better at their job than the guys in Pretoria.

    Will this bolt on? or have thicker square tubing and the rack part slides in?
     
  4. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Yes Im going to use bolts. I am going to use flat bar which I will weld on to the stand which will be used as cleats. These will be pre drilled. The light rack will then bolt onto these cleats.
     
  5. Hammerhead

    Hammerhead

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    Kewl build. Also busy with my build of a similar size. Was just wondering how is the Jeboa/ jecod dc 4000 on this tank size. I was advised that dc pumps have poor head height. So wondering how this has worked for you. My stand is 750 and tank 550 high so any advice will be appreciated before i gt a pump.
     
  6. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    That is unfortunately still on my to buy list. At the moment I am running a 2500 l/h lifetech pump on my tank and it seems to be doing a good job. I guess if I take that into consideration, a 4000 l/h pump should be good enough. My stand is currently 900mm high.
     
  7. Hammerhead

    Hammerhead

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    Ok kewl, Im in the same boat, also have a lifetech about the same size. Id just double check on the box when making the choice, good thing they can be throttled down.
     
  8. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Yes and they draw much less power than the ac pumps. thats the main reason why I am getting one.
     
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  9. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Ok So small update.

    Our application on our new place got approved yesterday and the deposit was payed today. So the plan can start moving ahead. The stand is being built as we speak. My brother is quite a good welder so he is doing the job. Will post pics shortly.
     
  10. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Update time, the stand is being made, not finished yet but making good progress. My brother is welding the stand. Cutting the edges at 45 degrees so we will have no open ends in the steel sections.

    IMG-20160210-WA0000.jpg

    IMG-20160214-WA0035.jpg

    IMG-20160215-WA0006.jpg

    IMG-20160215-WA0007.jpg

    IMG-20160214-WA0034.jpg

    Will post progress when the stand is finished.
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    will you paint the stand, or galvanize it?
     
  12. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Ill probably paint it with hammerite and then send it for powder coating. I dont trust galv, spent way to much money on all the steel for the stand to let them warp or bend it.
     
  13. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    As far as I know, they sand blast the items clean before they powder coat it. No need to add a layer of Hamerite as they will only remove it.
     
  14. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Thats true, but I know you can galv. a stand and then powder coat it. would they then sandblast the galv. off. Not sure about this, but Ill give the place in PE a call and find out. Maybe they can sandblast it and then Ill paint it with hammerite and then send it for powder coating.
     
    Last edited: 16 Feb 2016
  15. Harry s

    Harry s

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    The steel is new and clean so send it straight to powder coaters they going to put it trough a chemical bath to remove oil and silica from the stand and coat it. This is what they do with our turnstiles and it stays on for ever.
     
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  16. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Ok, that sounds good. Thanks for the input.
     
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  17. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Small Update.

    The stand is really starting to take shape. I like the 38mm x 38mm thicker steel look to the 25mm square tubing which my old stand was made out of. Pretty sure this thing will be able to carry a couple of Tons.

    IMG-20160218-WA0016.jpg
    IMG-20160218-WA0017.jpg
     
  18. EFJ

    EFJ MASA Contributor

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    Looking good so far :thumbup:. Just a thought, when you going to have the frame chemical dipped it will be exposed to heat. Remember to drill holes in the tubing to prevent distortion when being dipped.
     
  19. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the tip. Did not know that.
     
  20. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Went and got some tank fittings today. 25mm bulkheads for my temporary system and 20mm fittings for the return pumps. Will use clear plastic containers as a reef setup while the tank is cycling.

    Also got M20 Nuts for the stand. These will be welded to the bottom of the stand to make it easier for adjusting the level.

    Untitled-1.jpg
     
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  21. Mario ArchTech

    Mario ArchTech Thread Starter

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    Small Update.

    The stand is going slow due to my brother working till 12 every night the last week. He did manage to weld the legs on.
    IMG-20160222-WA0008.jpg

    I also set up my temporary plastic bucket setup at my parents place. Will take photos of it tomorrow. I will start moving the live rock over to the buckets tomorrow morning, and then Ill add the fish. Hopefully all goes well and I dont lose any fish.
     
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