Medicine

xtreme

xtreme

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Hi all

There are so many type of medicine on the market, what brand do really work.

I purchase a hippo blue tang about 2 months back, did the fresh water dip for 30min and after that into the QT with SG 1.016 and temp of 27 and did water changes every week.

Finlay bring the water SG back to 1.025 and last week it started with the white spots again.

Drop the SG back to 1.16 and temp up to 27 again and treated with Waterlife Octozin for the 3 days and still white spots, so waited 48 hours did a water change and start treating Waterlife cuprazin, still have 3 days to go on treatment but the fish still look the same. Now starting to wonder, is it worth it? Waterlife is expensive stuff.

Has any one an idea of medicine that really works?

Waterlife
seachem
Serra
Tetra and so on

Thanks
 
The copper treatment takes thirty days to completely eradicate the white spot. When it's on the body it's generally protected by the slime coat but after it falls off the copper gets to work destroying the cycle. There are other white spot treatments like chloroquine phosphate which is used to treat malaria in humans.
 
The 0nly treatment is to run a hospital tank from start, brand new mixed water and remove all your fish from the DT AND ADD THEM INTO THE HOSPITAL TANK AND DO WATER CHANGES EVERY SECOND DAY ON THE HOSPITAL TANK, YOUR OTHER FISH MIGHT ALSO HAVE WHITE SPOT BUT YOU CAN SEE IT, IT LIVES IN THEIR GILLS, SO THE ONLY WAY TO REALLY GET RID OF WHIE SPOT IS TO DO THE HOSPITAL TANK WAY, WHITE SPOT IS AN ORANIZM THAT LIVES ON FISH AND NEED FISH TO SERVIVE, SO THE ONLY WAY ON GETTING RID OF IT IS BY SETTING UP ANEW SYSTEM AS A HOSPITAL TANK, BECAUSE THE WHITE SPOT IS ALREADY INSIDE YOU DT YOU NEED IT TO DIE OFF AND THAT TAKES 3 -6 WEEKS FOR IT TO HAPPEN SO GET YOUR HOSPITAL TANK READY AND THEN TREAT THE FISH THE RIGHT WAY, DONT ADD MEDICINES AND SO ON JUST GODQUALITY WATER AND IT WILL WORK, IT TAKES SOME TIME
 
just a question what made you trat this fish? is it a standard practice you implement when buying new fish?

to what extent does it have white spot? small ph swings during the night can allow white spot parasites to be evident on the fish early in the morning subsiding as the day progresses.. personally i dont ever use medicine.. i prefer to dose vitimins (redsea vita and the like) on the fishes food provided its eating..

perseverence through this method has served me well the trick is being able to identify when this should start and if in doubt administer this proceedure immediatley..

as for medicines remember they are killing something (smaller and more suceptable to the medicine) and larger doses will knock the fish aswell hence the break days in certain medicine routines.. even bacteria are effected.. so dosing shouldent be a first choice thats rushed into..

check your water chemistry and assess accordingly..
 
Thanks

Ordered the fish and since then was in my QT, Got a series of QT standing ready, about 8, lol, always ready for the unexpected and running a 120l for my LR.

The tang had white spots and after the first treatment it disappear, but I know tangs are prune to ich so kept it longer in my QT and it started again last week, No problem with eating, its always hungry lol. This morning the white spots is gone but will finish the treatment (about 3 days) and then start the QT for 6 weeks more to see if its orite, hope full it will last this 6 weeks with out any ich. He/She is in a special QT at this moment, basically a full marine tank, Skimmer,sand bed the full works lol.
 
Nice fish. Thing is, i have come across no reliable and valid evidence to support any treatment method. There are lots of treatment strategies, but almost zero comparable evidence to measure there efficacy, so its a difficult question to answer
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Formaldehyde 37%. Available from most chemists. Dose 1drop per 4-5L or 1ml /100l.

Do not over dose as it can be poisonous to the fish. Works best if dosed simultaneously with copper sulfate.

One can make ones own copper stock solution.
4.0g/l of distilled water to which 0.25g of crystalline citric acid is added.

Dose at a rate of 0.25-0.30ppm and should be used over a period of 14days.

Use a copper test kit to determine the copper ppm. To low and the treatment is ineffective. to high and you kill the fish.

PS make sure you get a good quality test kit.
 
still it does not make sense to further stress a fish with a medication process.. its like chemotherapy to a cancer patient.. i would practice good husbandry skills over medication anyday.. a few spots are not the problem the neglect to maintain water chemistry and identify pathogens early are.. in my experience with fish its either the travel / incompatability (fighting) with tankmates and a incorrectly kept system thats the problem..

i have had a regal that has had a few spots on him for some time but evident only in the morning leading me to believe its a ph swing thats stressing him.. i made plans to stabalise the ph swing and the fish has come right..

medicine is old school..

you need to be confident in choice of fish in relation to compatability and health (unfortunatley not all can see the fish they buy if bought over the internet),

what im trying to say is there is another way, it does take some skill but its simple common sence..

sorce and treat the problem not the symptom.
 
Leslie you are right of course. The cause needs to be identified and remedied.

IMO the dropping of SG and raising of temp may temporary kill/slow down the tomonts producing daughters, but stresses the fish when returned to correct levels causing an recurrence.

One has to treat the disease. It will not go away on it's own. For light infections use the natural way. Cleaner shrimp,wrasse etc.
Greater infections the copper/Formaldehyde.
 
Nemos Janitor said:
Leslie you are right of course. The cause needs to be identified and remedied.

IMO the dropping of SG and raising of temp may temporary kill/slow down the tomonts producing daughters, but stresses the fish when returned to correct levels causing an recurrence.

One has to treat the disease. It will not go away on it's own. For light infections use the natural way. Cleaner shrimp,wrasse etc.
Greater infections the copper/Formaldehyde.
Click to expand...

i agree that not all illnesses can be done 'my way" sorry for not being more specific.. i do agree that medicine WRT open wounds being infected etc have their place.. my main focuss has been on a fish that comes in looking well and contracs illness (spots) from stress from other fish hassling it and so on..

i even believe that using a QT isnt exactly a good practice unless it has been connected and shares the same water from the main DT its defeating the aclimitisation of a fish as if it has different water and values, that would now mean the fish etc now needs to again aclimatised to the DT's water , agai stressing it to a degree..

am i opening up a can of worms here?:razz:
 
am i opening up a can of worms here?:razz:

lol

Yes all is true.

My chromis,P/Cardinals,Maroon clowns,trigger,naso unicorn,sergeant major, powder blue and toby puffer never had any problems, got them now 4 months (not all in one tank lol)

Well, cleaned QT3 new water and ready to move tang to it tomorrow and treat with vitezin again
Still doesn't has any problems to eat.
 
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