Aquarium Lighting - MH

so pure actinic is 55k and the normal actinic is 20k.the pure actinic has more of a purple spectrum to it,noticed?
 
I'd be careful with actininc. Sounds like we are moving towards uv and other dangerous rays
 
If going 250W I would go single ended. You have more options with reflectors and fittings.
 
Single ended bulbs have the shield built in.
 
mekaeel said:
which DE bulbs have built in UV shields other than the venture bulbs?
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Very , very few................ I'd be wary of statements about double ended bulbs having as good a uv shield if any, as single ended bulbs.
 
DragonReef said:
Mekaeel IMO a 150w 20K bulb is purely for decoration. PAR is very low on them. If you going to be using energy burning a MH globe then go with something in the 10-14K range and use T5's or T8's to supplement.
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Geordie said:
6500k for pure growing speed

in between is best of both worlds or a mixture

20000k for blue look

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I must say I was rather shocked to see the difference in PAR ratings of a 6500k bulb and a 20000k bulb, the 6500k PAR rating was 705, whereas the 20000k PAR rating was 247. That's a HUGE difference in PAR.

Here's the link to compare some of the PAR ratings (thanks mekaeel ;))
http://chrismorris.ca/250wcolour/index_zzz.html
 
Hi Dean / and all...

Yeah - I am also surprised to see that a 6500K MH globe supplies MUCH better PAR rating than the "general aquarium standard (these days)" of using either 10000K or 14000K....

I have read that some other reefers use 6500K Metal Halides, and then just supplement with a LOT of actinics to even out the yellow color of the 6500K MH's?

What's your thoughts about this?
 
Hi Dean/and others. What about the "standard" 5200K Metal Halide globes? Would this work if supplemented with a LOT of actinics? Could the color really be mixed and enhanced in such a way to get rid of the UGLY p-yellow coloring?
 
jacquesb said:
Hi Dean / and all...

Yeah - I am also surprised to see that a 6500K MH globe supplies MUCH better PAR rating than the "general aquarium standard (these days)" of using either 10000K or 14000K....

I have read that some other reefers use 6500K Metal Halides, and then just supplement with a LOT of actinics to even out the yellow color of the 6500K MH's?

What's your thoughts about this?
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This would be the way to go, and really good for your corals. K rating very close to natural sunlight.
 
Jaques that's why i generally stick to the 10K globes and then actinics.
 
I bought 2 venture 10000k globes and one started going on and off about a month into use and now the second one also started after 7 months. Is it bad globes or can there be other factors playing a role? I now have the distance between the electronic control unit way below the given specs.
 
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