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brightwells xport no3 and xport po4

Alkalin 8.4 for a carbon source

Doesn't that supply bi/carbonate as a buffer, not an organic carbon source?
 
I am going to buy the full redsea coral maintenance system over time including the kits inc potassium test kit
 
Sorry I got confused.
 
Hey no it's cool! Sorry bout all the questions, I just like the look of the Xport product and what it claims to offer...

So @mandarinman you think it stands up to its claim? worth the cash?

Brentch i only put it in my tank on saturday so i will haveto watch how things progress. i have zero nitrates or phosphates but i will watch the progress. i have removed my purigen but have left my chemipure elite in cos it is fairly new.
 
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Hi Brentch,

Xport products are still new so we'll need to wait for some more feedback to say how good the products is. As for removing DOC's, coloring in the water & neutralizing chemical warfare between corals - I would use a good quality carbon - regardless of what type of system you're running. If you want to use Xport-PO4, you could stop using the Extraxphos. Xport-PO4 seems to be ferric iron oxide-based.

Your nitrate levels are not bad. I wouldn't worry about it too much. You could use the Xport-NO3 to soak up that last bit. But I think 5ppm is a good level to maintain it at.

You mention that there's undetectable phosphates. What kit are you using? Unfortunately most (if not all) hobbyist test kits are pretty bad at reading low-range levels of phosphates. You need to have a proper checker/photometer to see what's really happening. The levels you need to maintain to discourage some algae growth (like bryopsis) would show up as undetectable with test kits.

IMO one of the most effective and easiest ways to maintain lower phosphate levels is by using Brightwell's Phosphat-E. It's a liquid product. We're guessing it's chloride-based so it's only good to use it if you're doing good regular water changes, otherwise it can cause some imbalances in your water parameters over time. But it's super potent. 1ml removes 1ppm phosphates in about 15L of water. We use the solid carbon source method (n/p pellets in a reactor). But because of our heavy-handed feeding we're introducing a lot of excess organics/phosphates in the system, so we use Phosphat-E to keep it in check.
 
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I have chemipure elite, fluval phosphate remover, xport po4(which is still maturing) and chaeto on a 24 hr light system. i know with feeding phoaphates are getting added all the time but hopefully my phosphate removal regimen will take care of it. oh i am also dosing 1ml of nitr and phos remover redsea and i have a bag of purigen for nitrates. Yup i have phobias :lol:
 
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I have chemipure elite, fluval phosphate remover, xport po4(which is still maturing) and chaeto on a 24 hr light system. i know with feeding phoaphates are getting added all the time but hopefully my phosphate removal regimen will take care of it.

Thats some serious chemical filteration, even worse than mine.:lol:
 
Hi Brentch,

Xport products are still new so we'll need to wait for some more feedback to say how good the products is. As for removing DOC's, coloring in the water & neutralizing chemical warfare between corals - I would use a good quality carbon - regardless of what type of system you're running. If you want to use Xport-PO4, you could stop using the Extraxphos. Xport-PO4 seems to be ferric iron oxide-based.

Your nitrate levels are not bad. I wouldn't worry about it too much. You could use the Xport-NO3 to soak up that last bit. But I think 5ppm is a good level to maintain it at.

You mention that there's undetectable phosphates. What kit are you using? Unfortunately most (if not all) hobbyist test kits are pretty bad at reading low-range levels of phosphates. You need to have a proper checker/photometer to see what's really happening. The levels you need to maintain to discourage some algae growth (like bryopsis) would show up as undetectable with test kits.

IMO one of the most effective and easiest ways to maintain lower phosphate levels is by using Brightwell's Phosphat-E. It's a liquid product. We're guessing it's chloride-based so it's only good to use it if you're doing good regular water changes, otherwise it can cause some imbalances in your water parameters over time. But it's super potent. 1ml removes 1ppm phosphates in about 15L of water. We use the solid carbon source method (n/p pellets in a reactor). But because of our heavy-handed feeding we're introducing a lot of excess organics/phosphates in the system, so we use Phosphat-E to keep it in check.

Thanks! I'm using the salifert test kit... I know even though the test kit shows no PO4, there has to be for this kak to grow! I've just changed my carbon, and put 800ml (300ml more than I usually add) and just got hold of ATI stop phosphate... I put 500ml in a bag. I think the bryopsis started to grow because my extraxphos finally expended itself.

I hope the bryopsis starts to recede soon.
 
Yep, it's probably there. But you're also right about your other algae's taking it up as they grow. ATI's Phosphat Stop is very well priced and it's proper ferric iron oxide - can't go wrong with that. It's just not as fine as some other ones so it doesn't quite have the same surface area but it's way cheaper than most others. Just keep at it and you'll hopefully get it under control. Good maintenance routine, regular water changes, carbon (like your'e doing), etc. Plus manually removing every time you do a water change helps. You have some livestock to keep some algae in check? Rasping fish, hermit crabs, mexican turbos, urchins, etc?

Hi mandarinman. There are so many ways of doing things and we're not one to say there is a best way to do it. We all eventually find something that works for us. But you are using a lot of stuff there. The Xport-PO4 does't need to be seeded so it should start working right away and then eventually become exhausted like your other media. The purigen would help with DOC's & help a bit with nitrates (sort of like a skimmer would) but is not a straight-up nitrate-removal resin. The Red Sea product you're using - is it a liquid carbon source? Are you dosing any type of bacterial too? That should help some as well.
 
Yep, it's probably there. But you're also right about your other algae's taking it up as they grow. ATI's Phosphat Stop is very well priced and it's proper ferric iron oxide - can't go wrong with that. It's just not as fine as some other ones so it doesn't quite have the same surface area but it's way cheaper than most others. Just keep at it and you'll hopefully get it under control. Good maintenance routine, regular water changes, carbon (like your'e doing), etc. Plus manually removing every time you do a water change helps. You have some livestock to keep some algae in check? Rasping fish, hermit crabs, mexican turbos, urchins, etc?

Hi mandarinman. There are so many ways of doing things and we're not one to say there is a best way to do it. We all eventually find something that works for us. But you are using a lot of stuff there. The Xport-PO4 does't need to be seeded so it should start working right away and then eventually become exhausted like your other media. The purigen would help with DOC's & help a bit with nitrates (sort of like a skimmer would) but is not a straight-up nitrate-removal resin. The Red Sea product you're using - is it a liquid carbon source? Are you dosing any type of bacterial too? That should help some as well.

Yup it is carbon source. i am dosing microbe lift special blend once a week. my wife walks past and thinks ive poeped!
 
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