Adee's v2

Mekaeel said:
Adee, this is gonna look flippen awesome dude!
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Thanks Mekaeel

sean_koekemoer said:
Wow, I'd spend many an hour in that place, fish and braai in the same room. Well done, nice planned setup :thumbup:
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:lol: thanks Sean. Now I've got an area to also sit down and tie up my fishing tackle and hang some photo's of my other hobby. Talking about the braai, need to get an extractor in there pronto...chucked some boerie on there and smoked the whole place out, which includes the rest of the house.

PeterL said:
What are the odds of squeezing in a jacuzi in the mix Adee?
Picture the scene, just done and awesome braai, got a few cocktails flowing with some mates in mid summer and all jump in for a relaxing few drinks and enjoying the night with friends with the tank as an awesome backdrop...mmm...


I guess that can also happen without the jacuzi, but could be a neat addition tot hat room - space and finances willing.
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jacuzzi....what? and waste all that flow on us humans?
The main doors open up to my pool, so two steps down and half a meter more, you going for a swim in the deep end. Water in there is like ice at the moment.
 
Watching this build with much interest !

Questions on the layout, do you have a pipe trench between the main DT and Frag/ATS system? Planning on fitting a light tube (same as Bob the Reefbuilder) to get natural sun light into the DT?
 
AfricaOffroad said:
Watching this build with much interest !

Questions on the layout, do you have a pipe trench between the main DT and Frag/ATS system? Planning on fitting a light tube (same as Bob the Reefbuilder) to get natural sun light into the DT?
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Thanks mate!

There is pipe hidden below the tiles, where it meets with the wall but this is only drainage for water changes. The plumbing to plum the two together I still need to sketch how I want to do that as the main DT will have huge DSB sump and the frag tank will have a LR sump, again building as big as I can squeeze in there. Both sides will benefit from the filtration located on both side. My trick is use one MD70 pump to drive the return flow through both systems and sumps...as they both stand at same level height which includes the sumps...can't realy on gravity to assist me with this. The plumbing linking the two will be hidden from view with wooden skirting.

Dunno if you missed post 58...pics of the overhead roofing, clear twin wall polycarbonate glazing, covers both tanks. I will have much more light than Rob who also has his tank 2 storeys down from his clear roof. I get sun morning, noon and afternoon. Only late afternoon the area really darkens, but that when the lighting pendant will move in to gear and fire up. I will need the help of someone with a PAR meter to take readings for more definitive results.
 
Adee said:
My trick is use one MD70 pump to drive the return flow through both systems and sumps...as they both stand at same level height which includes the sumps...can't realy on gravity to assist me with this.
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You will be surprised what happens if two tanks are on the same level. Or two sumps. A straight connection with 50mm PVC can easily handle up to 6000L/h flow. Not overflow into it, that restricts it, but where intake open end are under water. Test it, The two sumps water level will be almost equal. Obviously depending on the return pump. Needs bigger flow, use two 50mm pipes. Or go big, use one 110mm PVC connection :).
So your overflows from both Display falls into first sump, flow via connection to second sump and your return pumps are in second sump.

I will also rather use two return pumps. For each top tank separate. Then you can isolate and drain or clean or whatever you want to do in the future either on the display or frag tank.
 
I've sort of figured out what I'm gonna do with the plumbing. On the return pump I will split the flow to both sides, with the return flow also going to the ATS, which then drops into the frag tank, which in turn drops into the LR sump below. The LR sump then in turn will have an overflow level higher than the DSB sump from which the return pump feeds. Using one return pump allows me to keep the whole system running, should I need to go battery backup, will also keep then keep the ATS wet which in turn will aid in keeping water temps stable.

Will draw a pic in sketch as soon as I figured out how to draw pipes with 90 degree bends :whistling:

Anyways started to fill the main DT with RO water...that's now on day 3....will move the LR and macroalgae that I'm currently sort of cycling in another sump, to the DT (will only half full the tank). The CLS is plumbed in and that is working with no leaks. This will then clear away space for me to build beneath the frag tank (the LR sump), then once that is done, the frag tank and then the DSB sump.

I have really gone with the "go big or go home" attitude here, don't want to kick myself in years to come that i've should have had a bigger sump, ats, dsb, etc...so using all the space available to me. I will probably separate and divi the frag tank up to create a refuige for macroalgae. I plan to keep tons of fish and feed heavilly but once I see filtration really kicking resulting in the algae not growing that fast, will lessen the foot print size of the refuige.

Now just to get the glass I need and to plumb in everything else. I've decided to go with an external skimmer (a first for me) rather than internal...as having an internal would have meant that I would have to sacrifice sump space for the skimmer.
 
Adee said:
Will draw a pic in sketch as soon as I figured out how to draw pipes with 90 degree bends :whistling:
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Go to Sketchup website and download the PVC connections. From 20mm to 100mm
90 Elbow, T-piece, and pipe, all there. Look for file name "schedule 40 pipe 2_.skp"
The middle one is 50mm.

Toi change it from inches to mm, go to Window - Model Info - Units.

Then open 2 sketchups, and use copy and paste.
 
sean_koekemoer said:
:lol::lol: Cheer up dude. Be more Positive. You sound so "down":lol:

This made my day, as I also felt like this many times :thumbup:
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No dude...ain't down :yeahdude:, just feel like taking two weeks off and give everything my undivided attention. I hate doing things in small bits.
 
RiaanP said:
Go to Sketchup website and download the PVC connections. From 20mm to 100mm
90 Elbow, T-piece, and pipe, all there. Look for file name "schedule 40 pipe 2_.skp"
The middle one is 50mm.

Toi change it from inches to mm, go to Window - Model Info - Units.

Then open 2 sketchups, and use copy and paste.
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Shot Riaan, will give it a go.
 
There is also a Plug in "Pipe along Path"

You just draw a line, any direction, any bends, just keep on drawing the next line, then the next line. From start to finish.

Then tripple click any part of the line. All parts should turn blue, then I click on Plug-in, "Pipe along Path", give, Units (mm/inch) and pipe outside and inside diameter. That is it. Done, easier that that you do not get. Except to fall out of a tree. :thumbup:
 
Was at the coast and collected quite a few hermits and snails, I've added these to the half filled DT where I have live rock and chaeto maturing.... surprisingly, with about 4 weeks of natural sun there is not much of an outbreak of GHA as I would have expected. I have a skimmer in there as well, helping to keep things in check.
 
Cycling tank update

Here's pics of the tank, have about 120kg's of LR that I have been running for about 4 weeks now....I've added a big clean up crew and cheato in there as well.

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GHA, something familiar...but slowly also dying off.
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Will do a test end of the week for PO4 and NO3 readings.
 
Sump Builds

Okay, so glass arrived today, wasting no time...started slapping things together. I will show in detail how I went about doing the build.

Tools needed:
good strong quality Duct tape
"corner clamps"
matchsticks
your middle finger
throw away rag
silicone & gun

Okay...so firstly laid down the matchsticks which will act as spaces for the glass to rest on...working with the the two sides that makes the corners, use then the corner clamps and duct tape to hold things nice and square...I did this all round before laying down any silicone.
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Siliconed around the base on all four sides, then once done...a good sloopy lick of your finger, then run it along to force the slicone thru the crack left by the matchsticks...don't worry if the silicone does not appear on the other side at this point
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then remove the matchsticks one by one, just neaten up the area where your removed with a globe of silicone and again run your finger thru.
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If u have a problem gripping the heavier piece of glass (with your now messy hands)....run a length of duct tape with excess on both sides, then use that to grip like a rope..u only need to lift a few millimetres to get the matchstick out.

The weight of the glass should then force the silicone out on the other side as well creating a firm grip on the base.
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I've added these 50mm x 10mm strips of glass which are stuck onto to re-inforce the the side walls....as these are sumps and not show tanks...looks take a back seat. On tanks with higher walls, will make these strips the same height.

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Add more duct tape just below the clamps, which can then be removed.
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Will add in the baffles tomorrow after this lot has dried....btw this will be my DSB sump.

This is is my LR sump....a bit tricky getting a 200cm x 70cm base in between those pillars, was only able to do this one half way as the silicone needs to dry and then I need to slide whole thing the other end so that I can get use the the clamps.
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