Bio Cubes or NP Pellets

viper357

viper357

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I'm confused. :p

I'm wanting to venture into this whole pellet or cubes system and I have been trying to understand how each method works and what is needed but I can't settle on a solution. One thing I want to do is make it as cheap as possible.

The pricing of NP pellets and Bio Cubes is fairly close so I'm happy to try either one, and they both seem to work very well, but

From what I understand:

NP Pellets have to be run in a reactor.
Reactors are expensive, but it would be a simple plug and play method I think? Fill reactor, plug it in and that's it. Set and Forget?

Bio Cubes, seems they can be run in a reactor or a bag in the sump? Is that right? What is the bomb method? I've also read about air stones? There's seems to be a variety of ways to run the cubes? It's very confusing.

Any tips or advice on what is ultimately the easiest and least maintenance required method to use? I'm very lazy, I mean busy, :p so I can't be spending hours a week maintaining these things.

It would be cool if everyone could post pics of what method they use and how they are using it. :thumbup:

Thanks.
 
viper357 said:
NP Pellets have to be run in a reactor.
Reactors are expensive, but it would be a simple plug and play method I think? Fill reactor, plug it in and that's it. Set and Forget?
Click to expand...

Not really, from what I have been reading, some reactors are quite fussy and need some time to be fine tuned. Read @Jayceew thread and see how he had to tune it to get it perfect. Please note this is the only thread I have read on it. It may be easier...

viper357 said:
Bio Cubes, seems they can be run in a reactor or a bag in the sump? Is that right? What is the bomb method? I've also read about air stones? There's seems to be a variety of ways to run the cubes? It's very confusing.
Click to expand...

They can also go in a reactor but the cheapest way is the bomb method. In this method you place them in the bag which is provided in the container it comes with with an airsone as instructed. This then goes in the skimmer compartment of your sump.
 
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hi,

the best way, and the way cubes were designed to be run, is to use them in the bag provided with airstone and airpump. place in the skimmer chamber if you want to skim out the mulm, or further down is you want to use the mulm for food.

They cubes are fire and forget, and only need topping up when your NO3 and PO4 start climbing up, so testing only needs to happen, every 3-4 weeks or when you notice the cubes shrinking.

there are many here that are using them with no issues, they are NOT used in a reactor, and no water changes either @butcherman @carlosdeandrade @Toolboysa @459b @MistaOrange
and me!
 
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also pellets pose an issue when power goes out, flow rates, and have to plumb into skimmer

my 2c
 
dallasg said:
hi, the best way, and the way cubes were designed to be run, is to use them in the bag provided with airstone and airpump. place in the skimmer chamber if you want to skim out the mulm, or further down is you want to use the mulm for food. They cubes are fire and forget, and only need topping up when your NO3 and PO4 start climbing up, so testing only needs to happen, every 3-4 weeks or when you notice the cubes shrinking. there are many here that are using them with no issues, they are NOT used in a reactor, and no water changes either @butcherman @carlosdeandrade @Toolboysa @459b @MistaOrange and me!
Click to expand...

Dont forget me :p and @Francois
 
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dallasg said:
also pellets pose an issue when power goes out, flow rates, and have to plumb into skimmer

my 2c
Click to expand...


Hi Dallas et al

For the first part, any reefer that looks at using biopellets or cubes have come to a point where they are serious about the hobby. Anybody who is serious about the hobby would not have a marine tank without power backup.

On which is better - I advocate both methods.

With pellets flow rates are not a biggy, as long as the pellets are tumbling everything is happy. It also does not need to be plumbed into a skimmer.
Definitely also a set and forget. Fill up with pellets as soon as nitrates start to creep.

Cubes are great, salt spray created from the airstones - not so.

It basically goes with what you decide.

Personally I have been using pellets since 2011 and have had excellent results.

Would have considered cubes, but lack of suppliers and support down in Durban makes it not viable.(The main shops do not stock the item.)

I also don't do weekly and monthly water changes anymore, but I do monitor Iodine/Iodide, potassium, and other elements closely and dose as needed accordingly.

My 5c;)
 
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Being the king of carbon dosing as I am also very busy, (I mean lazy :p) and always wanted a way out of water changes as I knew that one could get away from doing them, I have tried all type of carbon dosing. From vinegar, to vodka, to sugar to a combination of two or all three and then to pellets (which I HATED, as the flow had to always be optimal, and the when I added new pellets, they all flowed to the top of the reactor) to NOPOX and finally bio cubes.
I was very sceptical at first as I thought that this is way to easy, as you know us reefers love to complicate things and we love the drama of a challenge.

CUBES work, I say that categorically, I am not a orca crony, @KillerWhale has never threatened me or paid me. I am just a very "busy" reefer, that has nothing special going for me (ok, my looks don't count here;)) that followed the very easy to understand instructions of, and like @dallasg said, place the cubes inside the provided bag with an airstone and sit back and relax. watch them work, and then start doing water changes for the right reason (if you do them), replenishment of trace elements, or just use Reef-X-Trax, again like I do.
 
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Express Reef said:
Dont forget me :p and @Francois
Click to expand...
yup :thumbup:

so some simple math based on a 500L system, given 0 < NO3 < 10ppm
based on sponsor pricing


NP Pellets
0.5-1L per 500ml - R750 - R1000
Reactor - R1500
Pump - R500
battery backup - optional but needed - R3000
Approx cost R R5500 - R6500

Orca Bio-Cubes 500ml - R550
Air stone - R10
Air Pump R150
Airline - R30
Actual cost - R740


Maintenance: based on best practice
NP Pellets:
clean pump
clean reactor
check pellets are tumbling and fluidised correctly
Top up as needed

Orca Bio-Cubes:
shake bag if needed
top up as needed


well thats how i see it
 
dallasg said:
yup :thumbup:

so some simple math based on a 500L system, given 0 < NO3 < 10ppm
based on sponsor pricing


NP Pellets
0.5-1L per 500ml - R750 - R1000
Reactor - R1500
Pump - R500
battery backup - optional but needed - R3000
Approx cost R R5500 - R6500

Orca Bio-Cubes 500ml - R550
Air stone - R10
Air Pump R150
Airline - R30
Actual cost - R740


Maintenance: based on best practice
NP Pellets:
clean pump
clean reactor
check pellets are tumbling and fluidised correctly
Top up as needed

Orca Bio-Cubes:
shake bag if needed
top up as needed


well thats how i see it
Click to expand...

i lol at this... well done. i want to get the bio cubes and start working with them.
 
dallasg said:
Maintenance: based on best practice
NP Pellets:
clean pump
clean reactor
check pellets are tumbling and fluidised correctly
Top up as needed
Click to expand...

Oh yes I forgot about this part too, if dentritus is sucked into the reactor it tends to clog it, so you'll need some form of filter sock to make sure your sump water is clean and dentritus free.
 
williet said:
Hi Dallas et al

For the first part, any reefer that looks at using biopellets or cubes have come to a point where they are serious about the hobby. Anybody who is serious about the hobby would not have a marine tank without power backup.

On which is better - I advocate both methods.

With pellets flow rates are not a biggy, as long as the pellets are tumbling everything is happy. It also does not need to be plumbed into a skimmer.
Definitely also a set and forget. Fill up with pellets as soon as nitrates start to creep.

Cubes are great, salt spray created from the airstones - not so.

It basically goes with what you decide.

Personally I have been using pellets since 2011 and have had excellent results.

Would have considered cubes, but lack of suppliers and support down in Durban makes it not viable.(The main shops do not stock the item.)

I also don't do weekly and monthly water changes anymore, but I do monitor Iodine/Iodide, potassium, and other elements closely and dose as needed accordingly.

My 5c;)
Click to expand...


from the site:
We suggest placing the outlet of the pellet filter in front of a protein skimmer, to limit the amount of bacteria entering the system. This has the additional benefit of increased gas exchange (CO2-removal and O2-addition). The pellets should never be used without sufficient aeration, as this may lead to low oxygen and pH levels, especially during night time. Proper aeration can be established with air pumps and protein skimmers.
Click to expand...

NP Reducing BioPellets a D. van Houten (Import) product - How it works
 
This thread will have many people adding many points, both positive and negative, for both methods.

So I am simply going to say NP Bio Pellets get my vote or at least till a few things about the cubes change (wont go into that though)
 
Reefhead said:
This thread will have many people adding many points, both positive and negative, for both methods.

So I am simply going to say NP Bio Pellets get my vote or at least till a few things about the cubes change (wont go into that though)
Click to expand...

thats the point, what are the pros and cons of both that you see...

what about the cubes need to be changed?

i have them running on tanks ranging from 20L to 3500L
 
but whether NP pellets or Orca Bio Cubes they need to be used according to manufacturer instructions to get optimal usage. that said, it goes for all products, notably chemi-clean
 
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