Evolution of slimline Overflow

RiaanP

RiaanP

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Evolution of the overflow box into slimline overflow.


10944cb5f4fa4d617.jpg


From the Left. Long time ago we used boxes, with standpipes and Durso's. With settlement at the bottom.

Then somebody realized that he could save in-tank real estate by making the box flat. Hole drilled in the back pane instead of the bottom. But noise problems started and ballvalves on the downpipe came into play.

Then the design evolved into 2 paths. Some realized that there was no need to have the box run all the way to the bottom. And made the box shorter. But same problem with previous design stayed. The outlet pipe run into an elbow. And that used up about 100mm behind the tank.

So how do we get the tank more against the wall. Then the next bunch of bright boys came up with another idea. We must have the overflow at the bottom. Brilliant thought. But how. So they took the slimline and put a box at the bottom. Basically the box down the back was just extended with a elbow onto the bottom of the tank.

Obviously all the evolved designs must be the same width as both sides of the original box to handle the same overflow rate.

So whats next...

Well the return comes to mind. All the last designs can be adjusted to be the return chamber. But a plan must be made to shoot the water forward instead of up into the lights.

So, here is mine. I adjusted the slimline top box, with a "roof".
Overflow part must be level with the overflow box, excluding longer sides and roof.
10944cb5f52071c1c.jpg

Power goes out, and water level drop only to overflow height.
No syphon breaks. No syphon holes to be drilled. No sump flooding.

Whats next?
 
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The only thing i dislike about the shorter boxes, like yours and #3 is that you dont have a lot of play in terms of water height. If there is a blockage in the pipe it overflows faster than when there is more head height to help push the blockage through. Another thing i noticed was that if something does manage to get inside the overflow its not coming out. Thanks for the post though, will help the noobs a lot.
 
Yip, understand, I got a small Narita and a Chiton in my slimline (number 4). Make one hell of a noise. And you cannot get them out.
 
I quite like the coast to coast overflows that you will see on the Dorry Pets tank! I think it might be the future for the overflow design. I cannot explain how it works though... If I remember correctly, the overflows were stuck into the corners of the tank and the return was the same.... Maybe Lanzo or Tiger could show us a sketch of the design?
 
Coast to Coast, exactly the same as any of the slimlines. Just wider. A lot wider.

Dorry Pets is exactly the same as the last design. Just in the corner of the tank with a higher bottom box to be able to handle more flow. But still it can only handle to a certain volume due to the width of the overflow. Else the water height above the overflow is more. Their return is the same. With the roof part as shown.
 
RiaanP said:
So, here is mine. I adjusted the slimline top box, with a "roof".
Overflow part must be level with the overflow box, excluding longer sides and roof.
10944cb5f52071c1c.jpg

Power goes out, and water level drop only to overflow height.
No syphon breaks. No syphon holes to be drilled. No sump flooding.

Whats next?
Click to expand...

Idol marine tanks work exactly like this.
 
Singularity said:
Idol marine tanks work exactly like this.
Click to expand...
Yes, they do use the dame design on the return lines where return also enters at the bottom as in design 4. That is where I got the idea from for my tank. Copied their "roof" concept. So credit to them.

Slagter said:
I still like the fact that they run down the corners... So if you got a cube, you can see all 4 sides!
Click to expand...
YES AGREE.
Looks awesome, On a big tank like that you do not even notice the thicker black silicone frames.
Dewald outdone himself on that tank. :thumbup:
Lanzo got the roof idea from me. And I got it from Idol Marine... (make the circle bigger)

Also on the closed loop on this big tank. Dewald and Lanzo used my CLS inlet concept. 50mm pipe with a lot of small holes. Check it out, if you can see the hidden inlet.

That is what I like of this hobby, can always take ideas and apply them for yourself, or even improve on it, like Dewald who created the corner slimline overflows and returns.
 
They look all nice and neat but dont work for me. My current tank has all that, slim overflow with returns. With a high pressure pump and running couple of tunze pumps I dont think it can handle it. The return has absolutely no pressure when pushing water inside the tank, so I would prefer a normal 25mm pipe. I still the old school boxes, as me get my hands inside any time, and the return pipe in the back that can be adjusted to get the correct flow.
 
Hi guys, speaking about overflows, I have a Coast to coast with the same design as the one on the right in post 1. I have 2 of the outlets beneath my tank... my question is how to make them silent ! :D

My Overflow looks something like this:

Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Any takers?
 
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Nsteyn said:
Hi guys, speaking about overflows, I have a Coast to coast with the same design as the one on the right in post 1. I have 2 of the outlets beneath my tank... my question is how to make them silent ! :D

My Overflow looks something like this:

Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Any takers?
Click to expand...

Fit ball valves or gate valves. Gate valves are better but more expensive.
 
Riaan, the two overflows currebtly merge into one return pipe. I have a balvalve on it, but i am having issues with "blockages and air bubles causing flow to differ after power outages and and and....

Thinking of splitting the returns and fitting both with a seperate gatevalve, but not sure if that will make any difference?

Niel
 
A gate valve is just a lot easier to fine tune. Ball valves, Always either open too big, or too small. Maybe get one gate valve first, and check the result.
 
Nsteyn said:
Riaan, the two overflows currebtly merge into one return pipe. I have a balvalve on it, but i am having issues with "blockages and air bubles causing flow to differ after power outages and and and....

Thinking of splitting the returns and fitting both with a seperate gatevalve, but not sure if that will make any difference?

Niel
Click to expand...

Did not look at your design in the link,why don't you have 2 seperate pipes for the overflows,less chance of both blocking the same time.Agree with Riaan on the ballvalves,gatevalves are expensive.
 
Nsteyn said:
Riaan, the two overflows currebtly merge into one return pipe. I have a balvalve on it, but i am having issues with "blockages and air bubles causing flow to differ after power outages and and and....

Thinking of splitting the returns and fitting both with a seperate gatevalve, but not sure if that will make any difference?

Niel
Click to expand...

Split the returns. I have 2 50mm pipes in my CTC and it's as quiet as can be with no gate valves
 
awesome, thanks guys, will do this the weekend and let you know about the results.
And thanks for everyone taking the time in helping, you guys should know that it helps a lot!

Niel
 
Hi , I am looking for a new DT, and cannot decide on overflow or return.
My tank will be 1,6 x 50 x 50 , and I would like something reasonably silent.i would also like the return to be intergrated from sump and not via external pipe. Has there been any advances since this thread started ?
 
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