Zayd's New 1300l system

Zayd - could I ask why you would go for a 11000 liter per hour return pump?

I want decent flow through my sump area of at least 5 x tank volume. I will also be having at least 5 x 90 deg bends on my return and the head height is 1.8m.

In addition, I will be using the pump for carbon, phos and nitrate reactors. It will also be used when I add a calcium reactor or UV/Ozone, etc in the future. I have added a tap on a T which can be used to bypass water back into the sump if I find the flow is too fast.

So hopefully after all this the flow will be reasonable.
 
Cool Zayd - I would love to see how this pines out. Please keep me updated once completed? (BTW: I tried even up to 26000 liters return pump - but I realized that the sump does not get the correct amount of detritus that it should - meaning that my micro fauna in my sump area does not flourish - due to a lack of food).......
 
Hi

Pics with plumbing layout. There is no overflow chamber, just 50mm hole with PVC pipe. Will a T-piece on the inside be sufficient to silnce the overflow or must it be like a durso with the 90 degree bend on the inside and the T piece on the outside?

Thanks

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Zayd - I have a 50mm pipe as an "overflow". This works very well for me, with no noise problems. Only thing is, my 50mm pipe is reduced to 32mm - as the rest of my pipes are 32mm...
 
Hard to figure out what you are saying however if your sump feed line is the blue pipe on the LHS of your DT, its not going to work
 
Hard to figure out what you are saying however if your sump feed line is the blue pipe on the LHS of your DT, its not going to work

Why? What's the problem with it. Seen it before just worried about gurgling noise. Going to put a T-piece on top of pipe going down (kida Durso stand like).
 
Needs a 90 degree elbow or Durso type setup with the opening facing down, otherwise you going to get hectic sucking sounds. Sounds like you are on the right track
 
Needs a 90 degree elbow or Durso type setup with the opening facing down, otherwise you going to get hectic sucking sounds. Sounds like you are on the right track

Thanks. I thought if I have that problem, I will add it afterwards as it will be quite easy to do so.

I appreciate all the feedback guys.
 
Cool Zayd - I would love to see how this pines out. Please keep me updated once completed? (BTW: I tried even up to 26000 liters return pump - but I realized that the sump does not get the correct amount of detritus that it should - meaning that my micro fauna in my sump area does not flourish - due to a lack of food).......


Jacques, see this link. The bit of research I have done indicates that a DSB needs good flow. This is not the only article that advocates strong flow through a DSB.

DSB article - CALFO
 
What is the difference in an "In Display DSB" and a "REMOTE DSB"

In Display, yes high flow rates. Do not want too much settlement of detritus everywhere. Where are the filter feeders? On your rock, and inside the rock. So you must keep small particles up.

Remote DSB, slow enough not to cause sandstorms and pull sand over to return pump. But not too fast, to allow some settlement. Where are the stuf that want food or detritus. In the sand. So stuff must settle.

So yes, I can see why there are so many conflicting comments. But first ask yourself, do the comment apply to In Tank DSB or remote DSB.
 
hey zayd,

awesome looking project man ...

1 suggestion, maybe place small T-pieces on the returns to the DT from the sump. there is going to be splashing and a lot of evaporation once u add the lights otherwise ...
 
Having my feet at my coffee table, gives me an idea about the size of the tank.
My coffee table is 2x1m.
I reckon you are going to push the tank against the wall do you?
800mm deep, you can't reach the bottom in front of the glass.
How to reach the back?
Once finished, nothing better than 20 cm more width than height.
I would add a blue T5 on each side above the bracing, meaning the tubes are laying above the 1m side of the tank. That should be the perfect light effect. Left and right are fading into blue, which should give you more optical depth on each side and the tank doesn't look like a flatscreen TV.
For extra water clarity and nutrients export you should
use milkfilter socks. A big improvement for any tank.
Look in the DIY section Prefilter(milkfilter) for
more informations.
All the best for a successful project.
 
Thanks Guys.

Teez, there is a T-piece splitting the 40mmm return and then I will use a 90 and 45 bends to make sure the return water does not cause any splashing.

LuckyFish, thanks for the advice. I know reacing into the tank will be a mission. Hoping not to do it a lot. I have aluminium tongs to help me though. Will also check DIY section.

Thanks again.
 
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