Your T5 lighting advice please

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by herkie, 8 Feb 2011.

  1. herkie

    herkie R.I.P.

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    The Zululand heat is killing me and trying its best to destroy my very brave Haleia HC 500 chiller plus the electricity costs is running away. This convinced me the MH lights are more suitable for the upcountry reefers whose tanks does not overheat regularly.

    LED lights are too expensive and it seems as if it is still in the early research and development stage. That leaves me with the T5 option.

    My tank is 520 mm deep, 370 wide and 390 from the front to the overflow. I have looked at T5's before and never considered it an option because The T5's are longer than the tank width.

    I now wonder if it will work if I mount the tubes from front to the back. The piece of tubes that is then sticking out at the back of the tank will then be above the small pre sump attached to the back of the tank. The overflow water runs down this slope that might become a scrubber lighted by the too long tubes.
    [​IMG]
    The overflow slope than could become a extra ATS.
    [​IMG]
    This is a side view of the tank.
    [​IMG]

    And a front view so you can see what is in the tank.

    Please advise me what tubes I should use and how to place/mount them.
     
    Last edited: 8 Feb 2011
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  3. herkie

    herkie Thread Starter R.I.P.

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    And the display is connected to a 280l sump.
    [​IMG]
    With these okes in it.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. IMarine

    IMarine

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    hey bra t5s is the way to go,the biggest manufacture of ballast,fitting,metal halide globes has shut down,and as ice cap directors said they will not be re opening
     
  5. Dane

    Dane

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    I also believe that T5s are superior to MH... I would put as many as you can fit in the hood.
    I would also lean heavily to the blue spectrum. Although I will be using Osram skywhites - 8800k and only R70 a tube.
    Half whites and half blues is a fairly standard colour choice. I would simply stagger the tubes, b/w/b/w
     
    Last edited: 8 Feb 2011
  6. Mad_Max

    Mad_Max

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    Is your hood closed with the MH inside? It looks that way (that will be a big heat issue). Maybe you can lift the MH a few cm.

    Also try a fan blowing on on the sump water and monitor the chiller. You will have to top up more frequently, but might overall bring down electricity costs because the chiller won't have to work as hard.

    Add a few PC fans in the hood to blow and extract.

    Hope it helps!
     
  7. inflames

    inflames

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    Hi Herkie,

    I would suggest getting as many (probably about 6) 24 watt T5 tubes with reflectors on each tube. This should fit in your hood. Each tube with reflector would take up about 5cm. So 6 should be acheivable! I also use fans in my hood, hooked up to a normal 12v computer power supply, for those really hot days. Both mounted on the back of the hood blowing air into the hood. These do help disapate the heat and the tubes run slightly cooler and will then last longer! If you can get 6 tubes in, go 3 white and 3 blue. Should look great. I also used alanoid to make my own reflectors, but you can buy them.

    I bought electronic ballasts from an eletrical shop, so shop around as you can get them allot cheaper than you think! If memory serves me right, I paid R130 per ballast. each ballast runs 2 39watt T5's. Mine are also imported and made by Phillips!

    Hope the advise helps!
     
  8. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    What size MH is in there? 150 or 250?

    Remember T5, also heat up the water, globe get hot along full length but not as high as MH globe. But total heat is about the same. And T5 is normally closer to water than MH, so they both tend to heat up the tank the same. 6*24W is still the same wattage as a single 150W MH, so no electrical saving there. But if chiller work less and "chill out" more, there is some saving.

    Seeing your sump in the garage, why not add a ATS above the sump, open as possible, with fans blowing across the ATS. Yes Zululand and evaporative cooling is not as effective as Gautengeleng. But even if it only helps 10%, that is still something.
     
    Last edited: 9 Feb 2011
  9. rakabos

    rakabos

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    I agree with RiaanP. I have found it very effective to even have 2x120mm fans sitting on my sump right above the water level and where the baffles are. This gives a great cooling effect for very little expense. More evaporation but thats why you should have a RO unit with unlimited top up capability
     
  10. herkie

    herkie Thread Starter R.I.P.

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    This sounds as if the MH equipment price is going to escalate.

    What is the difference in price from the skywhites to the blues?
     
  11. herkie

    herkie Thread Starter R.I.P.

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    I have a 24v fan that was used to cool the controllers etc on a electric forklift in the hood. It blows a lot of air but whines way too much and the hood is open at the top.
     
  12. herkie

    herkie Thread Starter R.I.P.

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    Have you noticed a lifespan difference when 'Overdriving' the tubes? IE 39w ballast to drive 23w tube?
    I have an ATS above the sump but without a fan. Maybe I should mount a fan to blow air over the ATS plus another fan behind the tank where I can get another ATS going on the sloping overflow shown in one of the previous photos.
     
  13. herkie

    herkie Thread Starter R.I.P.

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    I do not have the RO filter connected to the top up reservoir but that should still be OK. The reservoir holds 40l water and should make it for a day and maybe two.
     
  14. IMarine

    IMarine

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    Hi Herkie you said that you got a 500 chiller and it works over time,pls tell me you clean the the filters out, and your chiller should be 1,00mt space all around
     
  15. inflames

    inflames

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    Hi Herkie,

    You MUST get 24watt Ballast for 24watt tubes, 39watt Ballast for 39watt tubes and so on!

    They will work, but sooner or later the ballast will give up the go and you tubes will not last long iether!
     
  16. herkie

    herkie Thread Starter R.I.P.

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    The filters are absolutely clean, maybe I should have mentioned that the temperature on my outside mounted thermometer was at 28.5 c at 22h20 that evening. Zululand is violent. I even have my sump walls covered with polystyrene to keep heat out.
     
    Last edited: 10 Feb 2011
  17. IMarine

    IMarine

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    s,,,,,,,,,,,,,t thats hot bra t5s is the way to go, and i will try to remove hood completely ,and like the guys said open your hood if you can or just space it a few centimeters will make a huge difference and fans on your sump aswell as your hood should drop you down to 2-3 degs,the other thing is place 2 small computer fans in front of your tank to blow and 2 on the sides to suck the hot air
     
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