Urgent help needed Yellow tang's Fuzzy Mouth!

Discussion in 'Urgent Help Needed' started by Mrabkin, 25 Sep 2010.

  1. Mrabkin

    Mrabkin

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    Hey,

    Introduced a YT last week, eating like a maniac and looking stunning, but seems to have a "fuzzy" coating on her lips...

    At first thought it was brine shrimp stuck to her teeth, but worried that this is a fungus.

    All water params in check with exception of phosphates 0.5-1.0ppm (lowered from 3ppm last week)

    Any suggestions?
     
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  3. RocheH

    RocheH

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    Can you post a pic? but it sounds like it could be Cotton Mouth?
     
  4. Mrabkin

    Mrabkin Thread Starter

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    Haha, been trying to get her to be still and pose!!

    She is so lively and hates the camera... will do my best...
     
  5. Mrabkin

    Mrabkin Thread Starter

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    [​IMG]

    The pic looks a lot worse than it is, she must've moved her mouth when the camera went off... bit of a blur.
     
  6. RocheH

    RocheH

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    The picture is not a 100% clear but I suspect it is cotton mouth which is caused by the bacteria Chondrococcus columnaris. It begins with a white line around the lips and then develops into a cottony tuft from the mouth. Is this how it started?
     
  7. Mrabkin

    Mrabkin Thread Starter

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    It is definately then still in the beginning phases...It's little more than a white lipstick, with a few thin strands visible...

    should i be worried?
    will this leave by itself?
     
  8. RocheH

    RocheH

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    myxazin works well and it can be used in a reef tank.
    Just follow direction and you can’t go wrong, after you medicated add some carbon into your system for a couple of days to polish it all out. Good luck man.
     
  9. Mrabkin

    Mrabkin Thread Starter

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    I could get some erythromicin from the local agri... Could i dose a QT and leave him in there for a few hours?
     
  10. RocheH

    RocheH

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    This is what I found on the net, I can not recommend it since I've never used this type of treatment before. I hope this helps,

    Aquarium Medications and treatments; Antibiotics/ Antimicrobials

    ERYTHROMYCIN: ABOUT/ USE: Fin and tail rot, infections attributed to kidney disease (often not true kidney infections), some causes of pop eye, Neon Tetra disease (faded color and generally False Neon Tetra Disease/FTD)), and Black Molly disease. Erythromycin is most effective for gram-positive (the drug of choice for Streptococcus in fish) and SOME gram negative bacteria and fungus appearing diseases (not what is generally considered true fungus). However, generally Erythromycin is considered a gram positive treatment.

    Generally Erythromycin is not effective for most common aquatic diseases, especially in saltwater aquariums since it is primarily gram positive while the majority of aquatic infections are gram negative. Erythromycin is still useful for some diseases, especially some of the more difficult gram positive infections such as some cases fin rot and even some causes of Neon Tetra Disease (not all as this is more a symptom of several possible causes rather than an actual disease).

    Another often effective use of Erythromycin is for eye infections, both pop eye and cloudy eyes (cataract like infections), however in both cases a medicated Methylene Blue/Salt bath should also be part of the treatment (if possible, as some large fish this is not possible). Direct application of Silver Nitrate or Potassium Permanganate may be necessary for severe cloudy eyes (cataract like eye infections).
    When used for many eye infections (especially when only one or a small percentage of fish are effected), use of Erythromycin at double dose in a medicated fish bath is often an effective and definitely safe method of use.

    I find that Erythromycin (often in the trade named product Maracyn) is one of the most improperly recommended aquatic medications available (based on feedback from clients and reading forums, especially Yahoo Answers).
    Although I have used this antibiotic with success, it is rarely a medication that I will go to first since it is limited in its aquatic effectiveness and is hard on nitrifying bacteria. This is a medication worth trying when all else has failed or even in combination with antibiotics such as Kanamycin, but as a first choice Erythromycin should be very limited

    Erythromycin works by inhibit protein synthesis by binding to the 23S rRNA molecule (in the 50S subunit) of the bacterial ribosome blocking the exit of the growing peptide chain of sensitive microorganisms. (Animals including fish do not have 50 S ribosomal subunits, but have ribosomes composed of 40 S and 60 S subunits). Certain resistant microorganisms with mutational changes in components of this subunit of the ribosome fail to bind the drug. The association between erythromycin and the ribosome is reversible and takes place only when the 50 S subunit is free from tRNA molecules bearing nascent peptide chains. Gram-positive bacteria accumulate about 100 times more erythromycin than do gram-negative microorganisms. The non ionized from of the drug is considerably more permeable to cells, and this probably explains the increased antimicrobial activity that is observed in alkaline pH, which is why Erythromycin is more effective in pH over 7.2.


    Erythromycin is also VERY harsh on nitrifying bacteria and should be used with care in aquariums, although in established aquariums the nitrifying bacteria will generally bounce back. I would not recommend Erythromycin in new aquariums or Marine Aquariums.
    Generally Erythromycin is best not combined with other medications, although I have combined with Kanamycin under careful observation of aquarium ammonia levels.

    DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

    Erythromycin is found in API Pro Erythromycin by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals or Maracyn by Mardel.
     
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