WS: Normal?

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by mytank, 20 Jan 2012.

  1. mytank

    mytank

    Joined:
    12 Mar 2011
    Posts:
    2,503
    Likes Received:
    59
    Location:
    Gauteng
    I know this has been discussed often, but having QT'ed the fish and they were fat, munching and no WS, now in their new tank with new tank mates there is obvious a little territory setting.

    Now what I noticed is the new fish started getting some WS. I know WS comes from stress and yes by trying to find some new territory they going to get bullied.

    I really don't want to QT them again and stress them.

    I know we can't get our tanks WS perfect so some comments.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 11 Apr 2016
  2. AdS Guest




    to hide all adverts.
  3. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

    Joined:
    12 Mar 2011
    Posts:
    2,503
    Likes Received:
    59
    Location:
    Gauteng
    Just to add all the fish are still eating a lot :)

    Sent from my SGH-i917 Microsoft Windows Phone 7 (Mango) using Board Express
     
  4. rakabos

    rakabos

    Joined:
    12 Jul 2010
    Posts:
    5,006
    Likes Received:
    91
    Location:
    Wilgeheuwel, JHB
    Your phone's signature is longer than your post, geez
     
  5. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer

    Joined:
    7 Jul 2009
    Posts:
    3,055
    Likes Received:
    210
    Location:
    Jukskei Park, JHB
    How long did you quarantine the fish and what method of quarantine did you use. It is possible to get a tank white spot free. Most people just dont have the knowledge of proper quarantine methods or dont have the patience to quarantine a fish long enough.
     
  6. SteveZi

    SteveZi

    Joined:
    2 Feb 2011
    Posts:
    795
    Likes Received:
    42
    Location:
    Cape Agulhas
    whit spot is actually a very small living parasite, so yes you can eliminate it completely from your tank.
     
  7. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

    Joined:
    12 Mar 2011
    Posts:
    2,503
    Likes Received:
    59
    Location:
    Gauteng
    Hmmm, I QT for four weeks, I used herbatana to qt didn't want to stress fish with bucket method and didnt have the facilities to do copper. There is no way to remove it from your DT without removing all your fish or copper and milking your coral ... From my understanding.

    Sent from my SGH-i917 Microsoft Windows Phone 7 (Mango) using Board Express
     
  8. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

    Joined:
    12 Mar 2011
    Posts:
    2,503
    Likes Received:
    59
    Location:
    Gauteng
    @rakabos that's what the forum software on mobiles do

    Sent from my SGH-i917 Microsoft Windows Phone 7 (Mango) using Board Express
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  9. Achilles

    Achilles

    Joined:
    22 Feb 2009
    Posts:
    1,050
    Likes Received:
    100
    Location:
    Cape town
    With good water quality, nutrition and minimizing any fighting they will be able to conquer the white spot themselves but only if they have less stress. While quarantine is essential to avoid many very lethal diseases , whitespot will be lethal only if the stress and poor water quality continue- there are also numerous things one can do to reduce the parasites to a point that the fish immune systems have it only as a latent infection(UV, Ozone, Cold sterilization,Metronidazole in food for 30 days etc).

    However any new fish added will likely get the stress going again and reinfection, as will poor water quality.
     
    Last edited: 20 Jan 2012
  10. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

    Joined:
    12 Mar 2011
    Posts:
    2,503
    Likes Received:
    59
    Location:
    Gauteng
    @Achilles - Thank you for that information I appreciate it. What I do is soak their nori (and they get A LOT of it) in Garlic and brightwell Vitamins for about 15 minutes. All their food has been thawed and frozen with vitamins, garlic and spiralina.

    I did a huge batch of blended clams, muscles and fish roe. Then I mixed a bunch of other food as well.

    This evening (even though not to my taste but to allow them to settle), I moved the rock work around. I basically created a little house (think upside down U) with the rock work for each of the bigger fish. I was amazed to see the most aggressive fish was my small yellow tang!

    As soon as my hand was out of the tank, they all found new homes and the aggression seems to have dropped ten fold. I put some vitamin enriched Nori (I got the Purple one as I read its has the highest value of nutrients), they went straight for the nori and munched it to bits.

    The tank looks cr@ppy now but I think I will give them a month or two to settle, get strong again so before I do my aqua scaping the way I want it!

    @Achilles I take my hat off to you for being able to keep that Achilles, its my fav fish but if I can't even keep WS off a freeken yellow tang it will always just remain a dream fish.

    @Achilles thanks again
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  11. Achilles

    Achilles

    Joined:
    22 Feb 2009
    Posts:
    1,050
    Likes Received:
    100
    Location:
    Cape town
    Mytank - u are welcome i hope it helped the info - if you decide to feed them the seachem metronidazole, mixed in the food you have to feed it for at least 30 days or it will not help much at all.

    The Achilles has been with me over 7 years now and often he has had whitespot, he has lived with whitespot off and on but it never has been lethal as i have never let the situation get out of control. - Achilles are surge zone fish meaning they like highly oxygenated water with very strong flow , they graze on rocks where waves break, They have weak skin protection to whitespot parasites and that is why this species is often called an ich magnet they also are very aggressive need large tanks and prefer to be the dominant fish, if they arent they will often be stressed with major whitespot.
     
  12. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

    Joined:
    12 Mar 2011
    Posts:
    2,503
    Likes Received:
    59
    Location:
    Gauteng
    @Achilles yes it did help thank you.

    So what I am doing is:

    1. trying to minimize stress by creating a lot of hiding places for all the fish.
    2. I am "over feeding" them with nori which i drench in SeaChem garlic guard and some vitamins
    3. I bought the Seachem Metronidazole and the Seachem Focus (which helps the Metro).

    I have a question if you don't mind @Achilles - On the back (of the Metronidazole) it states one measuring spoon for 40l of water. For my tank thats 15 measuring spoons. The little bottle it comes in is only 1/2 - 1/4 full I would finish that in two days. I have read that you can do ONE measuring spoon per feeding (mix in food flakes etc with Garlic and the Metro + focus).

    I want to make sure I am feeding the med for 30 days how do you feed it?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  13. Achilles

    Achilles

    Joined:
    22 Feb 2009
    Posts:
    1,050
    Likes Received:
    100
    Location:
    Cape town
    You are doing the right things make sure water quality is good,and no swings in parameters ESP temp!
    Also don't add metronidazole to water blend it one seachem spoonwith 3 focus in teaspoon of water and mix with tablespoon of food, then refrigerate what you don't use and feed like that for 30 days. Metronidazole is much more effective fed than added to water .
     
  14. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

    Joined:
    12 Mar 2011
    Posts:
    2,503
    Likes Received:
    59
    Location:
    Gauteng

    @Achilles - thank you once again.

    Temp is rock solid, LED's and Profilux make sure of that :)

    Ok so I understand and make this most effective, the focus directions indicate a 5:1 ratio, so what you are saying is do:

    1 x Metro and add x3 Focus to that (to enhance the Metro), mix this into the food before feeding.

    What I am doing right now is mixing it with the food 20mins before I feed with SeaChem Garlic Guard.

    I was seriously worried with the 15 spoons I would of gone through the freeken little tub in a day. I will feed for 30 days FOR SURE.

    Now the question does this KILL WS in the tank or does it CONTROL the WS :)

    @Achilles - thank you once again for the advise, I am sure the tang will thank you too!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  15. Achilles

    Achilles

    Joined:
    22 Feb 2009
    Posts:
    1,050
    Likes Received:
    100
    Location:
    Cape town
    It is unlikely to totally eradicate whitespot but it can give your fish a chance to develop full or partial immunity which may last up to six months, white spot can also only live for about a year it can only replicate a certain number of times that is unless a fresh strain is introduced.
     
  16. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

    Joined:
    12 Mar 2011
    Posts:
    2,503
    Likes Received:
    59
    Location:
    Gauteng

    Thanks they have had their two doses of Metro and Focus and I will carry on with the dosage for 30 days.

    Question: When you said the Achilles is from the surge zone's, is that for all the type of tangs that look like the Achilles? i.e. The Powder Blue / Brown etc?

    Again thank you for your time and help!
     
  17. Achilles

    Achilles

    Joined:
    22 Feb 2009
    Posts:
    1,050
    Likes Received:
    100
    Location:
    Cape town
    Yes many Acanthurus sp. are frequently found in the turbulent surge zone (convict surgeons, powder blues etc)there food grows there (algae)
     
Recent Posts

Loading...
Similar Threads - Normal Forum Date
Normal Amount of Top Up Water Beginner Discussions 8 Aug 2016
Backup or normal use Water Pumps Pumps and Waterflow 9 Jun 2016
Salt mixing and normal garden hose General Discussions and Advice 27 Mar 2016
Which salts do you normally use? Water Parameters and Additives 13 Dec 2015
Zoas bloated normal or not Soft Corals 18 Jul 2014
[wtd] looking for normal green mushrooms to buy in PE Wanted 16 Jun 2014
Vertex omega 150 skimmer on special for November Normal price R5800 now selling... Dorry Pets Pretoria 24 Oct 2013