Will a Bean Animal configuration work for a skinny overflow (for 2balive' s new cube)

Discussion in 'Pumps and Waterflow' started by 2balive, 15 Aug 2013.

  1. 2balive

    2balive

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    Hi

    Decided to start a separate thread for this and will only post the result of this back in my tank thread. Think it is a bit boring for the normal tank thread readers and hope to get a bit more technical members in this part of the forum.

    I have been reading alot on overflows as I have ran out of "flood the house" credits and absolutely hate the sound of water gurgling or falling down a pipe and splashing.

    But I love skinny overflows, both from an aesthetic point of view and space in the tank for fish.

    To make life more interesting, I have bought a (new) second hand tank from @brentv and it already has holes drilled.

    Of all the overflows I looked at the @BeanAnimal design (Silent & Fail-Safe Aquarium Overflow System) is by far the best for me, both from capasity, auto adjusting, noise and its fail safe nature. I am really impressed with this guy.

    However, it requires three holes (and three pipes) and the design is based on a classic box overflow and elbows to function.

    I could not find the need for this (theoretically) and think that I could use it inside a skinny overflow with some modification.

    Will it work?

    Here is my reasoning that this may work:

    In terms of the full syphoned channel, the traditional design requires it to be lower than the open channel. With the skinny overflow it is and will function as normal (on full syphon). A key concern here is that a vortex forms to the surface and/or the overflow box gets sucked dry. This does not seam to be an issue with skinny overflows? Note this hole is already drilled, the line will also be fitted with a valve.

    The open channel (that functions as durso) will functional as per the original design and because of the big difference in hight between the full syphon channel and the open channel, I will be able to control the water level with the valve on the full syphon channel so that very little water enters this pipe, resulting in a complete quite flow. I will configure the airline as a backup syphon activator as per the design. Big concern here is if I would be able to control the water level in the skinny overflow to this degree or if it will fill-up to the top of the overflow?

    The emergency channel is smaller and offset to the open channel, so it should remain dry in normal operating conditions and kick in and become a full syphon channel if the tank gets flooded due to any of the other two getting blocked or not being able to handle the flow. My only really concern here is I have offset it enough to stay dry and if I should rather make the open channel a bit lower?

    In general, is the width of the overflow enough for surface skimming and what is the optimum gap for the skinny overflow?

    Also still worried that stuff will get jammed into it, what is the best way to deal with this?

    Here are the pics:

    glass 90 x 90 x 72 beananimal with skinny back view.jpg

    glass 90 x 90 x 72 beananimal with skinny front view.jpg

    glass 90 x 90 x 72 beananimal with skinny closeup.jpg

    glass 90 x 90 x 72 beananimal with skinny back view.jpg

    glass 90 x 90 x 72 beananimal with skinny front view.jpg

    glass 90 x 90 x 72 beananimal with skinny closeup.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
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  3. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    i dont think it will, it will drain too fast
     
  4. 2balive

    2balive Thread Starter

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    How do tank with skinny overflows work? Most looks like they are running in full syphon mode, or do you have air vents on them?

    Do you think the design will work if I give it a 5cm (or more) gap?

    Main question is, is the elbows key to the design, or will "naked" holes work and the full siphon way at the bottom of the overflow box.
     
    Last edited: 15 Aug 2013
  5. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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  6. 2balive

    2balive Thread Starter

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    I have gone trough both of them (OK, not every page ) on RC (ghee some not so nice people there) and did not come across anything on skinny overflows. Looks like skinny overflows a very much a SA thing.
     
  7. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    yes, there is a thread there on skinny where i posted my tank, and they told me it doesnt work, or will flood, shows you...
     
  8. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    but if you keep your skinny clean, no prob, i had 2 x 32mm holes in mine and never an issue
     
  9. carlosdeandrade

    carlosdeandrade

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    I was speaking to Rob from @Idol Marine on Saturday. In the many years that they have been making tanks with skinny overflows, he says he has never come across a skinny overflow that has clogged.
     
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  10. 2balive

    2balive Thread Starter

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    Saw it, but does not cover it in relation to the Bean Animal configuration?

    Do you run yours with an airline or in "Durso" mode?

    I am hoping that with the valve and the wide overflow area will be able to control the surface of the water in the "box" at a precise level. Technically the water "in the box" is only a buffer and the volume going through it depends on the overflow lips length and the water height above it.

    However not sure if a skinny draws done bubbles with it?

    Can someone pls post some picks of the inside of their skinny overflow,

    Good to know.
     
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  11. 2balive

    2balive Thread Starter

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    Look at this one, it is a "nearly skinny", running with two permanently full siphon outlets.

    I also have a variable pump that will help to control the flow rate.

    1962overflow1.jpg

    1962overflow1.jpg
     
  12. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    that will work
     
  13. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Well, mine blocked with a Blue Green Damsel.
    and the damsel survived...
     
  14. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Thereafter I run a very interesting complex overflow. That was silent.
    A lot of plumbing, but it worked.

    Basically, I let the overflow go down to just below tank level, turn 90 degrees, and then a T-piece with the horizontal part of the T facing back to the wall.
    The vertical part continued into a ball-valve, that entered another 90 degree, flowing down into sump first chamber.
    the horizontal part entered another 90 degrees pointing UP. that part went up to another T piece with the horizontal part going out sideways. The top was level with overflow. The out part went down again to the sump, but ended 2 or 3cm above the water. So you end up with 2 downpipes.

    Ok, still following?
    Now, how did it worked? By adjusting the ball-valve, you can adjust the water level in the overflow chamber. The level should be as high as possible. If, for any reason the ball-valve did block again (and it did) The water will push up the UP pipe behind the tank. And exit the high T-piece back to the sump. And due to it being above the water, it will make a noise. And that acted like a build-in alarm. Hear water, something is wrong...

    Strange setup. But it worked and was silent.
     
  15. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Oh yes, the top t-piece was open on top, could look down into it to help with adjusting the valve.
     
  16. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Similar can be done with Brentv old tank, no need to split the outlet, just use 2 ountlets. The bottom one should get the ball-valve. Top one is the emergency outlet for when something goes wrong. I will still let the emergency outlet splashes into the sump to make a noise. So you know something is wrong.
     
  17. carlosdeandrade

    carlosdeandrade

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    I think he was talking about idol built tanks @RiaanP. :p;)
     
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  18. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    a ball-valve is a ball-valve. unless you got those teeth combs to keep fish out, a small fish will one day find the overflow.

    And a Nerita snail is small enough to enter a skinny overflow. Get stuck and die in there. so do not put a skinny under a brace, or where you cannot get access to it.
     
  19. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    and the funny part, although that was a standard 1.2 Daro tank, Idol built the overflow box for me...
    :blush:
     
  20. carlosdeandrade

    carlosdeandrade

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    Skinny? Any How, saw in another thread how a nennie slid down a skinny. Didn't block it.
     
  21. 2balive

    2balive Thread Starter

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    Thanks for all the advice, concept evolving.

    Only now saw the slots at the bottom, that must be how they stop the vortex from forming, not great for surface skimming or a power down situation.

    What I like about the Bean Animal design is that it gives me a very wide range of silent operations with the failsafe for when it really goes wrong, will definitely have the emergency channel in a splash configuration.

    This is kind of a deal breaker for me, never thought of it, but yes, no way I will be able to gain access to the overflow that high and with the bracing in place. :banghead:

    Will investigate cutting slots above the overflow in the bracing, even if I do not go with a skinny overflow.

    Thought of putting a removable front panel in, but worried that I will struggle to get it sealed. Not a good idea to have hole that low with an leaking overflow.

    @brentv 's current bog box overflow is looking more and more appealing.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
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