Whitespot

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by THE ANIMAL, 20 Apr 2009.

  1. THE ANIMAL

    THE ANIMAL

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    :smoke:Hi all got some whitespots on some off my fish, at first it was not that bad but now it seems to get worse. Can you please tell me how and with what can I treat the tank? It is impossible to catch them all, took me two days to catch my powder brown and eventually lost it to illness and stress. I also want to treat the hole tank to make sure that I get ride off the disease. I do have proto marin coral, first can I use it in my reef tank and the will this do the trick? I also have a uv sterilizer must I put it in the tank to? :support:
     
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  3. THE ANIMAL

    THE ANIMAL Thread Starter

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    Is their no one that can help me with my whitespot prob???
     
  4. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    The Animal: You CAN try one of the following - but none is REALLY guaranteed to work - but worth the try...... some reefers have had different and varied results - some work for some reefers, some don't....

    Try it if you want to:
    - soak your food in FRESHLY GROUND garlic (feed together with the garlic)
    - soak your food in Myxazin
    - dose Myxazin into your tank water
    - increase your water temp (ie. to 28 degrees celsius)
    - decrease your water salinity (short periods SHOULD not impact inverts negatively)
    - increase your alkalinity

    If all else fails:
    - catch your fish, put in a hospital tank, and dose copper based medication.....
    - leave your tank without fish (fallow) for 4 to 6 weeks....
     
  5. THE ANIMAL

    THE ANIMAL Thread Starter

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    thanks jacquesb will try it. Do you now the product proto marin coral and will it work???
     
  6. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    No, sorry Animal - never heard of it...... You can TRY, if is "guarantees" you to be invert safe? I know that Myxazin has been proven to be invertebrate safe......
     
  7. Tony

    Tony

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    That's the aquarium Muster products. They are reef safe but you have toget the dosage perfect. Feed your fish with food soaked in multivits like calci vita a few times a day to boost their immune system. Don't crank up the temperature of your tank as this can force the cysts into dormancy which you don't want
     
  8. THE ANIMAL

    THE ANIMAL Thread Starter

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    OK thanks it say invertebrate safe so I'll dose and see what happens, may-be next time I can help some one alse.
     
  9. THE ANIMAL

    THE ANIMAL Thread Starter

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    OK then should I then not administer it? Then a stupid question the calci vita that your refer to is that a marine product or what humans use?
     
  10. Tony

    Tony

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    It'a what humans use. Just don't dissolve the whole tablet for a bit of food just a quarter of so. The aquarium Munster product is reef safe so you can use it
     
  11. al'stank

    al'stank

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    Hi there,

    Just jumping in here quick. Background: - Got some LR and hard coral types from friend for my sump, had some mushrooms on it.
    Put it in my sump. A day later I am looking after his tank and there is whitespot on some fish and his majestic angel just died this morning and his butterfly angel is looking bad.
    Question - is that LR and coral contaminated??????
    I have some nice expensive fish I don't want dying. I have taken it out for now and put it in another container.
    What should I do????

    Thx

    Al
     
  12. toppdogg

    toppdogg

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    animal i had the same prob about a week or so ago
    what i did was raise temp 28 + got a product call marine oomed and garlic supreme drops soak all the food you put in with the drops try feed twice a day
    it is safe for inverts and corals turned off all lights and skimmer for a day or 2
    and on the 3rd day did a 20 % water change just make sure water change water is same temp
    my fish were covered in spot
    and they all have seemed to rhave recovered nicely
    slowly still bringing temp down to normal 25/26 degrees
    just my 2 c
    good luck
    i know how you feel i hate seeing my fish sick aswell
     
  13. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    You might be lucky, but if his tank was infected when he gave you the LR, and if you kept the rock damp, then the chance is pretty good that you've already infected your tank.

    Observe your fish closely for the next few days, and if even one of the fish shows signs of infection, I would suggest that you treat all your fish as if they are infected. This would entail removing then all to a dedicated hospital tank, and treating with hypo-salinity (and perhaps copper as a last resort...).

    Leave the LR in a tank without any fish for a minimum period of 21 days, before placing them back into a tank with fish.

    Hennie
     
  14. al'stank

    al'stank

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    Thx Hennie,

    Questions -
    1. What is the best level of salinity to put the hospital tank at if they are infected?
    2. What is the best temp? - heard 28-29 is good
    3. That "infected LR which is in an icecream container with a small powerhead - what should I do with it? How long to keep it out?

    Thx again

    Al
     
  15. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    Keep the salt level of 16 ppt (approximately 1.009-1.010 SG at 25-26°C for at least 21 days.

    you should not experienced problems when placing fish into a hyposalinity treatment, but the fish will showing obvious signs of distress when brought back to normal salinity levels too quickly. For that reason, try to limit the specific gravity increase to not more than 0.001 per day when you need to return the fish to normal sea water salinity.

    no, that is a fallacy, based on the treatment of fresh-water ich. At higher temperatures, the trophont (the parasite when it's on the fish) will mature more rapidly, and fall off sooner, giving the impression that the fish is cured. Unfortunately, the trophont (cyst) stage of the parasite matures quicker at the higher temperature as well, and there is a chance that it will re-infest the fish more rapidly at the higher temperature. The main reason for not recommending the higher temperature, though, is that C. irritans usually infests the gills of the fish quite severely, and the capacity of the fish to breath is thus limited. Warmer water carries less dissolved oxygen, and this will severely stress (or even kill) the fish if it cannot "breath" properly due to the disease.

    If you've removed all the fish from your display tank to a hospital tank, you can safely add the infected LR to the display tank. Keep the tank fish-less for at least 28 days, and all the white spot would have died out (this happens within about 21 days, but add another week as a safety factor...). After 28 days you can return all your treated fish to the display tank, and they won't be re-infected.

    Good luck.

    Hennie
     
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