White Spot vs Para Guard

Discussion in 'Quarantine Tanks, sick fish, QT corals' started by Dirkie, 23 Apr 2013.

  1. Dirkie

    Dirkie

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    White spot broke out in my tank so I asked Pet Stop what i should use for 2 fish(Brown tang, semi circulatus ) that were struggling in the copper tank (note; they were not making it, but the other 4 fish were going strong in the copper treatment tank) They suggested Para Guard ,"they use it in all their tanks especially with new livestock . and they never have any problems with white spot. so I went home and tried it in the main DT . I have come to the conclusion that it is Useless!! Just as the fish started to look better(they had very very little spots on them) .the next day they were fullll of WS again. How can Pet Stop recommend this product if it does not work..???. Im going to try the bucket method or the copper.
     
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  3. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    :stupid::iagree:
     
  4. 459b

    459b Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Before putting all the blame on the shop...
    Did you use the product exactly as directed?
    How long have the fish had whitespot before you asked pet stop for help?
    How can you blame paragaurd if your other copper treatment wasnt working either?
     
  5. Perky Pets

    Perky Pets Sponsor

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    We use Parraguard as well - and it does work.
    Your fish cant be cured overnight, use the parraguard for a few days as a treatment.
    BUT
    the fish wont get better if there immune system is weak , make sure the water parameters are all good , and try the gauric gaurd in the food as well .

    The bucket method is great , but theres white spot in your system now so when you put the fish back into the DT , they could be reinfected...

    If your going to copper , try take all fish out for 3 weeks and the whitespot population in the DT tank should be low enough to not reinfect the fish .
    but the copper will kill the whitespot giving you a false sense of " the fish are healthy " they can be severally stressed in the quarantine tank and not pic up spot ( because of copper ) - and a stressed or fish with a low immune will easily develop spot or worse deceases when out of the copper again.
    so keep the water fresh and at the right copper level and do water changes to make there quarantine stress free as possible.

    I would however carry on with the parraguard as recommended by them ( i don't know your conditions so im not giving any directions on dosage ) this will eliminate free swimming white spot every day making your DT healthy quicker.


    I don't think there's a easy way out - just persevere ...
    Good luck
    D
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 23 Apr 2013
  6. Rookie

    Rookie

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    Your fish got re-infected because the free swimming theronts attached themselves to the fish again. Have a look at the diagram below. I have always had trouble with whitespot until i studied this diagram and understood the life cycle of WS.

    Your best bet would be the bucket method. But then as @Perky pets superstore said, your DT is already infected with WS and the chances of your fish getting it again are high.

    I have only had WS in my QT setup and thus no advice for you when it comes to ridding the DT of it.

    So Pet Stop is not 100% wrong in advising paraguard.

    I gotta give credit to @RiaanP for consistantly talking about the bucket method.

    10944d5110a7027e1.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  7. raynow

    raynow

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    I'm using paraguard in a holding tank and it works 100%
     
  8. ziyaadb

    ziyaadb

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    Paraguard cannot cure ws period.
    Use the tried and tested methods to cure ws, copper, hypo salinity, bucket method, etc
     
  9. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    For bucket method, read this page.

    Bucket Method Quarantine - Marine Aquariums South Africa
     
  10. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    to understand whitespot and all the myths around it, read this page
    Whitespot: Know your enemy - Marine Aquariums South Africa

    Remember, on the fish, the ws is protected by the fish slime layer, its under the scales. Only becomes visible during the end of the hosting cycle. Note the size. They are minute small when hatching and attacking fish. If any chemical can kill the ws under the fish scales, then it will kill the fish as well.

    Can only treat the free swimming stage. Again, note the time period or window of opportunity to be effective.

    Get yourself a quarantine holding system.
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    do your bucket method. And when done, you are more than welcome to keep your fish temporary in my quarantine holding system. I got a 90L and a 220L standing empty at the moment. OK, the 220L is cycling some rocks, since 1 March so it should be available next week.
     
  12. Perky Pets

    Perky Pets Sponsor

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    @Dirkie what did you decide - how are the fish ?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  13. Dirkie

    Dirkie Thread Starter

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    its was more than a week and the para guard did not seem to work. so i put the 2 in the copper treatment tank last night but with very low copper levels about (0.1 p.p.m). I then brought the copper levels up very slowly (0.05 p.p.m) dosing every 4 hours until it reached (0.3 p.p.m) wil monitor it and keep it there. The spots seem less. But I will keep a very close eye on them to make sure they are ok. So far they seem happy ,swimming around and eating .Holding thumbs. :)
     
  14. Dirkie

    Dirkie Thread Starter

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    thanks @RiaanP . ive got a Qt setup and running the other 4 wil be going in there on monday.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
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