What do you feed the following corals ?

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by ZeroCool, 12 Mar 2010.

  1. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool

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    Hi there, I have a candy cane and a hammerhead, and all i feed them is basic coral liquid food. Are calcuim required for them as well ?

    If I am way off, please direct me in the right direction please.

    Overall, the 2 are doing ok, but not great i think.

    help ..
     
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  3. maj

    maj

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    mine also is surviving,not thriving....so im tagging along
     
  4. FransSny

    FransSny

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    hi zero, not a guru on the subject but are you turning off the powerheads & target feeding /

    They should take, phyto / zoo plancton preperations, mysis etc. What brand are you using
     
  5. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    I only give the following:

    Sera - Coraliquid food
    And then a local product called "Pure reef supplements", which is a calcuim booster ...

    My pure reef is finished, and struggle to get that at lps.

    If i am way off, please help.
     
  6. FransSny

    FransSny

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    Ok as far as I know sera coralliquis is plankton based (someone correct me if i am wrong)...thus you are only feeding one spectrum. What you can try (cheapskate method)

    Take some marinara mix (defrosted), chuck into a blender, add some sera & wizz till a liquid. Now take a medicine dropper , switch of the powerheads for about 5 - 10 mins before feeding, & drop this solution into their "mouths". If feeding they should close up.

    I would however still reccomend getting a good product containing zoo & phyto plancton
     
  7. maj

    maj

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    Frans u do have sum phyto in stock hey?
     
  8. FransSny

    FransSny

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    maj, why not just use marine snow, combination of zooplancton and large phyto ?
     
  9. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    I have been keeping a few LPS with major success, and have shown great growth from them. Even recovered trumpets.

    My 2c is that phyto and zoo is good to feed, and then my absolute favorite is Cyclop-Eeze.

    Reef Snow can also be used, but IMO not to replace zoo and phyto. Reason for this that snow is "vrot" meat. In the ocean, zoo, phyto, food, pooh etc. drops down from the shallows, and as it decends, it get's "packed" by bacteria. This then is called Reef Snow. It has some additional elements to clean phyto or zoo, but not the pure zoo and phyto nutrition as you would get with that prodcut itself.

    Make sense?

    I never turn flow off when feeding any of my coral (except sick NPS) The reason for this, is that most coral react negative to zero flow, and withdraws, making their nematocyst cells "less potent" and thus taking in less food. if you feed with flow, the torch coral for example curls up like a pigs tail. This shows it is capturing the food.
     
  10. maj

    maj

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    Ok,i can chat to u 2moro about it,will be ther in the morning,what time u open up?
     
  11. FransSny

    FransSny

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    Jaco, I agree with what you are saying (in a sense). The reason why I prefer reef snow (when not using the cheapskate method) is because it delivers organic & inorganic nutrients. Thus limiting the amount of additives (i think we have chatted about this).

    And cyclop eeze is bio engineered, high in protien etc....just personal preference i guess.

    As for reef snow being vrot you are a bit off target...the decomposition process by the organisms actually act (dont ask me how) in a way to recycle the nutrients

    Hope I make sense...its friday
     
  12. maj

    maj

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    now this thread is gettin the info .....
     
  13. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Yes, they need Calcium in order to grow their hard skeletons.

    You need to keep your calcium level between 380 and 420 and also keep a check on your alkalinity, that should be around 6 to 9. You can test for these parameters once a week and then increase if need be.
     
  14. LifeAquatic

    LifeAquatic

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  15. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    hi everyone, i did some tests over the weekend, and the results are:

    Calsuim - A (450) - B (410) - the reason why i have a and b, the elos testing kits comes in 2 parts.
    ph - 8.1
    no3 - 0
    p04 - 0
    kh - 7
    salinity - 1.026
    temp - 25%

    that sounds and looks perfect to me ... feedback ?

    I dont have a iodine testing kit, but will invest in one asap.
     
  16. LifeAquatic

    LifeAquatic

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    Your parameters sound good. Just like mine were, I couldn't figure out why my corals were just surviving but not vibrant and growing. When I stumbled on the iodine information I gave it a shot and every one of my corals look better. Been 2 weeks since first dose; saw improvements within days. Now I test regularly to keep the Iodine and 0.06.
     
  17. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    thanks for the info ... i will get a iodine testing kit asap. What is the element(s) name for iodine, just wondering ... ?
     
  18. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    question, if i have iodine, one get stuff to remove it right ?
     
  19. Manic

    Manic Moderator

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    Zero I think you are a bit confused with the calcium testing using the elos test kit. The first time you do the test you are doing a rough estimate test, so each drop counts as 50ppm of calcium, so in other words the C solution only has an accuracy of 50ppm. The second time you are doing the test you are getting an accurate result, each part of the D solution counts as 10ppm of calcium. They are not different calcium levels in your tank. It is just the one is more accurate than the other.
     
  20. Manic

    Manic Moderator

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    No you want iodine hence the reason for dosing it, you don't want to get rid of it but you don't want to much either.
     
  21. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    cool, i am on the same page ... :)
     
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