Water Level Controller

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Hi Friends

Thinking for designing and building a "budget" :thumbup: (under R350) water lever controller, So far my ideas have been for it to :

1. Indicate water levels in the sump and RO tank.
2. Act as a auto top-up.
3. Switch off the RO & Sump pumps if water level drops to low to pervent pump damage.
4. Alarm if sump starts to over fill and cuts RO pump (As fail safe system).

So what you think?:whistling:

If you think there is anything the needs to be changed or added please let me know.
 
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Hmmm....For R350....not easy. However should you get it right; keep your order book handy.
 
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Been putting pen to paper and designed the prototype, the cost so far is about R95.00, but not too happy with the sensing setup, so will work on it some more. Still need to add the price of the hardware. Should make it within the R350 mark.
 
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The ideal cheap water level controller: An all-plastic toilet float valve, connected to your RO filter, and mounted in the sump pump return chamber - total cost, including fittings, should be less than R150.00 :)

Hennie
 
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I am personally against linking an auto top up to the RO filter... I have heard so many disaster stories about the auto top ups failing, and people ending up with Tropical freshwater tanks...

I would rather connect the top up to a pump in a reservoir and play it safe...

I was told that the RO unit should run for a few minutes before the water is used (and I can see the difference in the TDS readings - usually there is a spike after a few seconds, and it slowly drops after anout a minute or two back to zero), if you contect it directly wont that high TDS water enter your display?
 
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Would this help

I am personally against linking an auto top up to the RO filter... I have heard so many disaster stories about the auto top ups failing, and people ending up with Tropical freshwater tanks...

I would rather connect the top up to a pump in a reservoir and play it safe...

Would Have to Agree, connecting directly to the filter doesn't seem the best option.
Mine would draw from a reservoir and have a 2-stage safety system

I was told that the RO unit should run for a few minutes before the water is used (and I can see the difference in the TDS readings - usually there is a spike after a few seconds, and it slowly drops after anout a minute or two back to zero), if you contect it directly wont that high TDS water enter your display?
This can be done, Having a second pump to "stir" the RO Water first. (Am I right there)
 
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Can you explain how the 2 stage system with the resevoir would work?

I am guessing that if your display top-up failed, then water would be pumped from the resevoir..... and it would be continually filled with the RO filter..... as the resevoir topup would be always switched 'on'...
 
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Can you explain how the 2 stage system with the resevoir would work?

I am guessing that if your display top-up failed, then water would be pumped from the resevoir..... and it would be continually filled with the RO filter..... as the resevoir topup would be always switched 'on'...
OK, not the best with explaining, but let me try.

An auto top-up fits to the return chamber of the sump, not the tank. When water evaporates it will cause the level in the return chamber to drop, not the tank, therefore with a auto top-up system, you put the level switch in that chamber. If the switch failed, causing the pump to start, it would carry on pumping till there is no water left in the RO Resevoir, creating shit a problem.

With my system, there is level sensor detecting water level, if the "pump sensor" fails to switch off the RO pump as the water level increases to just over the normal level, the second stage of the sensor would kick-in cutting the RO pump. Its Basically a level sensor with a "safety switch" if that makes sense?

Hope it doesn't sound like I've been :1:
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Kanga

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Sounds great and some piece of mind:thumbup:
 
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Hey there bud ... I know its 4 years down the line but was this project ever finalized .... After my drama, I have to get this in order before attempting to pick up pieces and move on ... just too heartbreaking with so many livestock gone in one go ......
 
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Remember I PM'd about coming down on that Wednesday and wanted to bring back 1000 Litres? Well I made the trip but only to do business and was back home about 7pm only to find the back pane separated in my 6 foot ..... All water on the floor and all the livestock dead all except 1 clown wrasse that was clever enough to go deep in the substrate .... Check my thread out .... still reeling from the shock to see so many dead fish in 1 bucket .... I can except a loss but really feel bad coz of the way they must have suffered before they died .....
 
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Ok the ball is rolling ... so far the orders are placed for the components ... going to play around with a few options .... float switches, relays, sounding device, and power supply and enclosure sitting at the +/- R250 mark .... just to see if everything works well then thinking this should be one of the "essentials" ... Whats the use of having all the fancy equipment, expensive fish and corals, BUT no water in the tank ... will keep your'll posted on results ...
 
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Ok the ball is rolling ... so far the orders are placed for the components ... going to play around with a few options .... float switches, relays, sounding device, and power supply and enclosure sitting at the +/- R250 mark .... just to see if everything works well then thinking this should be one of the "essentials" ... Whats the use of having all the fancy equipment, expensive fish and corals, BUT no water in the tank ... will keep your'll posted on results ...
Sounds cool Chicka , keep us updated !:)
 

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I designed a reasonably fail safe system with 2 float switches, been running for about 8 months no hassle. Over December the tank ran unattended for 10 days.. Iv designed it such that i can add more float switches if needed. But keep in mind, the more float switches in your system, the greater chance of the system failing..
 
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Sounds cool Chicka , keep us updated !:)
Will do so .. Forgot to mention in fish list unfortunately the gorgeous niger trigger also passed on ....:dft004:

I designed a reasonably fail safe system with 2 float switches, been running for about 8 months no hassle. Over December the tank ran unattended for 10 days.. Iv designed it such that i can add more float switches if needed. But keep in mind, the more float switches in your system, the greater chance of the system failing..
Care to elaborate bud .. Maybe wont have to wreck my brain so much ... I basically will use the the floats as well one high level, one low level triggering a sounding device via a relay and also triggering my sms module to alert me wherever I am ...
 

zak

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44994f10293b16e24.jpg


One float switch operates normally open, this float switch essentially controls the topping up of your tank.

The 2nd float switch operates normally closed, this float switch is a master switch that will prevent your tank from flooding.

Coupled with a pump that comes with dry-run protection(they pretty cheap), you totally covered from all angles!
 
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There is also pressure sensors that will work but is a lot more exspensive
Also liquid level controlers that work with 3 probes but I do not know if you get them in titanium
 
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zak

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I suggest you keep the top up part as simple and solid as possible. You can add all sorts of other fancies like led's buzzers etc, by adding another float switch to detect water level in the resevoir.. I use the very same float switches as in the picture , their operation modes can be easily changed for NO to NC.
 

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