I also found that putting sodium bicarbonate in the oven for 15 to 30min before mixing, drives the moisture off and makes it dissolve much easier, some people have experienced elevated PH with this method but in my case PH is good.
Vatso Dosing Table
- Thread starter vatso
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I bought soda ash or sodium carbonate. So no need for baking, it's already baked. And actually cheaper than sodium bicarbonate. My ph is always between 7.7 and 8.0 so a bit higher won't hurt.
It's way more cheaper, your monthly supplement cost could get you at least 2 years supply of these chemicals.
I've bought 25 kg bags for under R200 each about a year ago. I gave more than half away and still have enough to last me at least to years.
All this on a 750 sps dominated system
So there are no actual different ingredients in the aquarium branded stuff at all?
I think not, some might have minor trace elements added, but mostly repackaged and relabeled bulk product. IMO anyway
Are the "Aquarium" commercial brands mixed with distilled or de ionized water as opposed to RO? is this for longevity in the bottles?
Do you still add Kalkwasser in the evenings?
I think I'm also gonna dose like this via a Doser, then just buy commercial Aquarium Trace Elements, Vitamins & Amino Acids, possibly an Iodine Supplement and a few other small chemicals required for SPS & LPS and Special Blend.
Do you still add Kalkwasser in the evenings?
I think I'm also gonna dose like this via a Doser, then just buy commercial Aquarium Trace Elements, Vitamins & Amino Acids, possibly an Iodine Supplement and a few other small chemicals required for SPS & LPS and Special Blend.
Remove the pain use this chemistry calculator Reef Chemistry Calculator
Brent if you want medical grade gef hold of warren chem in killarney gardens
Ps dissolve into hot Ro to reduce precipitation
I'm referring to the powdered supplements, I have no idea how they dissolve it though, but I'm leaning towards some type of purified water.
My new setup which is only a few weeks old, is based on the zeovit method, discourages the use of kalkwasser. According to this method of reef keeping the kalkwasser binds with PO4 and locks it up in the rock and substrate only to leach out later, but I can't prove this though.
I have used Kalk with my old system together with DIY dosing. IME Kalk had positive effects from what I could see. It improved skimming dramatically, minimized the nocturnal PH swing and added to the long term ALK level and stability, meaning I had less ALK usage and had to decrease the amounts I was adding long term.
But at the price for Pharm grade chemicals, do you even need to add kalk, maybe a refuge with an alternate lighting time and chaeto instead and use recommended alk?
In other words are there any benefits of adding Kalk besides using the above mentioned dosing and refuge? Besides Corraline growth maybe?
Hey Glen,
Will give them a shout when I'm setting up, but just working out buying dosing pumps, etc etc and this will all help with my engine room I'm designing!
Dont play with kalk as it cause huge ph climbs if overdone not to mention stuffing up equip and turning substrate into rock
Oh and peeling spses
Causing dust storms if substrate is agitated
Will be useless if not enough carbon dioxide available to convert to carbonate part of coral growth
Ps if you do dose it. Dose at night so it can use co2 as much as possible