UV sterilizers - The Definitive guide

Discussion in 'Test Kits, Controllers, Reactors and Dosers' started by williet, 16 Nov 2011.

  1. williet

    williet Look at the shiny LEDs!!!

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    Hi all

    Been a bit bored lately :whistling: my tank has been very stable so I thought I would do some research in the area of UV sterilizers. It is very interesting and since people claim it can control infestations of bacteria, parasites(Possibly irradicate as proven by a fish farm in the USA) and water clarity I went as far as to understand how it does it???

    I found this report written by Carl Strohmeyer and from everything I have read so far this topic he gives the best overall explanation to how UV sterilzers work and should be applied.!!! Enjoy !

    UV Sterilization, Irradiation for Aquariums, Ponds; UVC Sterilizers Information

    Your thoughts !

    Got some interesting math calcs on it so I will be doing some experiments !!!:thumbup:

    Willie
     
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  3. Mc

    Mc

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    Very good site I read through there lighting article a few months back it was very informative.
    I have a boyu TL550 that comes with a built in uv sterilizer which I havn't been running for the few months but am considering turning it on. I will read through this article when I get a chance to help me decide if its worth it. I will be following this.
     
  4. williet

    williet Thread Starter Look at the shiny LEDs!!!

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    Hi MC

    It loks good. the most important issues to take in regard is dwell time and flow rate. Also you need to decide what you want to use it for eg. algae/bacterial/parasitic. I would think your boyu is designed for algacidal purposes? Look at the wattage of your lamp and you frow rate through the sterilizer and I will work out what the purpose of it is!
     
  5. Mc

    Mc

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    Thanks I will see if I can find this info and get back to you shortly.
     
  6. Mc

    Mc

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    The uv lights box says 6wPL and the globe is positioned in the main pump of the aquarium, which boyus website claims is 1400lph not sure how accurate that is.
     
  7. dendrosa

    dendrosa Member

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    Interesting Article. UV usage is something I've long been interested in - ever since scoring an industrial grade UV unit from a pharmaceutical company that was upgrading their plant. I've carted this unit round the country with the intention of using it on my "ultimate" system, which I never got set up till recently. This unit has 2 * 36W T5 lamps in series so would have serious nuke power if connected to my system of 1000 Litres
    Problem is that I want to start getting into NPS corals so nukeing phyto and zoos is not on :)
    It would probabally be total overkill but where I may end up using it is to nuke my 500l NSW storage tank. At least I could be pretty certain that the water would be free of anything that may bloom when introduced into my tank
     
  8. AfricaOffroad

    AfricaOffroad

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    That flow rate sounds very high for a 6w UV st.
    Without doing the calcs I'd estimate you dont want more than 200lph
     
  9. Mc

    Mc

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    Im not sure if thats right thats just what I could find.
     
  10. ScottK

    ScottK

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    Isn't this the general issue with UV, not only does it nuke the bad but also nukes the good especially when it comes to beneficial bacteria in the tank?
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    yes, I know the article is too long to read
    but interesting viewpoint
     
  12. Mc

    Mc

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    If you read the article you will see that is not the case.
     
  13. williet

    williet Thread Starter Look at the shiny LEDs!!!

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    Guys interesting thing you should as what you did... I will post something very interesting regarding the concern of zoos and plankton!
     
  14. ScottK

    ScottK

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    Slap on the wrist accepted ;)

    I did read through the article but maybe not as well as I should have. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to shoot this down but would rather understand it better and ask "dumb" questions.

    I suppose it all boils down to what other filtration methods are being utilized and where the UV is added into the system. If (like me) you are running a filtration methodology that relies quite heavily on the dosing of a liquid bacteria source the UV could quite easily nullify this effect if it is implemented in the wrong place, in a system using an established DSB this would be completely different I imagine.

    After reading the article more in depth it makes a little more sense, once bacteria is introduced with the UV being turned off it will "adhere" to a suitable surface, after this point it would only be excess bacteria in the water column that would be affected by the UV filter.

    As with many things in this hobby anything implemented in the correct way with the correct understanding can be extremely beneficial even though the "masses" say otherwise. @Paul B has proven this with the use of a reverse under gravel filter that most others would advise against.

    Will be following the rest of this thread with interest.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
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  15. Mc

    Mc

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    It wasn't meant as a slap.
    I agree with you about the adding of bacteria as I also do this and it is one of the reasons I haven't yet turned on my uv. I know on the microbe-lift special blend package it says the uv light should be turned off for 48-72 hours.
     
  16. williet

    williet Thread Starter Look at the shiny LEDs!!!

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    Hi all

    Just saw this discussion. Granted that Phytoplankton is about 1mm measured, it is a lot bigger than Crypt in it's free swimming stage so just to consider the facts:

    To Kill crypt(Free swimming) = 280000 microwatts of energy.
    Amyl oodinium 120000 microwatts of energy.

    Now if memory serves me well the free swimming tomites are in the region of 50-60 microns

    So to kill phyto, you will need A HELLUVA lot more energy ?

    Well that is what i derived from the article ?

    Your thoughts ?
     
  17. williet

    williet Thread Starter Look at the shiny LEDs!!!

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    Also another thing is important... I have calculated that for crypt you have to move your tank water volume 2 times to maximum 4 times for it to be effective !

    Now that was a shocker ! My 55w Sterilizer barely makes it !

    Distance between globe and quartz cover also are very important the further the way the greater the power requirement will be !
     
    Last edited: 16 Nov 2011
  18. Mc

    Mc

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    So then there not much hope for my 6w.:lol:
     
  19. Paul B

    Paul B

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    OMG, I thought everyone used one. :eek:
     
  20. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Interesting points.
    So its only doing a quarter of its job. OK, that is one year. That is why you have to replace the tubes every 3 months. I just never found any information on how effective the tubes are after 3 months.

    Yes, what is the point of having new tubes if the glass envelope is dirty. Same as having new globes fitted to your lightning unit, but you do not clean the glass covers or perspex fronts.

    Pushing the Redox potential is more of a benefit then. So running ozone unit would be the same?
    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, Avant Garde][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, Avant Garde][/FONT][/FONT]
     
  21. zyttron

    zyttron

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    I have used very successfully 2x 1m UV light in my 3m tank and it solved all of the common fish disease all together. Also since I noted being an avid killer I used it when required, specially when introducing new livestock and when I viewed smoke in the horizon. Can't remember the wattage on this two guys though but they must about a 350W each.
     
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