Urgent help needed Using Temp to get rid of ICK


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Hi Guys

I have a small problem with a ICK breakout in my hospital tank(Boyu Tl550)

It is set up a a small reef tank with aragonite sand (nice breeding ground for the ick)
Live Rock and and a few corals that were not doing so well .

My question is can one take all the coral and fish out and leave live rock and sand etc.. and raise the tank temp to say 40 degrees for 2 days to try kill off the ICK?

Will this Work?
 

dallasg

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RiaanP

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40 is too high.

Marine Ich is optimal around 28 degrees. Pushing your tank up to there would speed up the live cycle. So shorter period to keep tank fallow.

40 degrees and you could very likely sent your tank into a cycle as a lot of sponges etc could die.
 
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40 is too high.

Marine Ich is optimal around 28 degrees. Pushing your tank up to there would speed up the live cycle. So shorter period to keep tank fallow.

40 degrees and you could very likely sent your tank into a cycle as a lot of sponges etc could die.
I will remove any coral and fish if I was to go the 40 degrees route.

not sure what sponges you are referring to.
 

RiaanP

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not sure what sponges you are referring to.
What is inside your liverock?

Would whatever is in there survive 40 degrees?
If they die off on significant numbers you will anyway sent your tank into a cycle for 4 to 6 weeks.

Leaving your display without fish at 28 degrees for 6 weeks will also ensure that the whitespot hatched, searched for a host, found none and died.

Same period of time. So why risk killing other beneficial critters, sponges filter feeders that is within your rock?
 
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RiaanP

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plus the electrical bill to cook the display for 6 weeks. Ouch, Do not want to open that account.
 

RiaanP

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40 is too hot for you to bath in. Your system would be dead after 6 weeks.

The more I think about it. After 6 weeks, bringing the temperature back to 25, then your tank will start to cycle. So you have to wait another 4 to 6 weeks after your cooking exercise before you can slowly one by one re-introduce your fish. Like stocking a new tank.

Only benefit I can think of is that you might have killed aiptasia spores as well (might!!), plus the hitchhiker crab you do not know you got.
 
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Was going to keep it at 40 degrees for 4 or 5 days,
but none the less I see your point and thank you for all your help.

All you guys are very helpful.
 
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Okay well i have the same problem with my tank. I have had all my fish removed for 7 weeks and kept the tank running. The problem is back. What can i do medication wise. Please dont tell me Para Gaurd. It is a bunch of crap and should be taken off the market. I have mixed metroplex in with food and added vitamin C and Gaurlic gaurd to the food and froxe in ice blocks. Doesnt seem to be working and im not sure how to get rid of this stupid white spot.
 

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@DaneMac
Where did you keep the fish in those 7 weeks.

If you just moved them to another tank and kept them there for that time. And from there back to the display. Then you did not remove the whitespot from their environment.
 
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@DaneMac
Where did you keep the fish in those 7 weeks.

If you just moved them to another tank and kept them there for that time. And from there back to the display. Then you did not remove the whitespot from their environment.
So then why did the white spot not die in those seven weeks
 
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It died in your display.

But it was still on your fish. Then when you introduced them back again it infected your tank.

That's why you should do the bucket method.
@RiaanP has some great threads on whitespot
 
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RiaanP

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If you moved the fish to holding system directly, you infected that tank. Then when you moved the fish back to your display, you re-infected the display. The fish were still carrying the whitespot.

It is very difficult to treat the fish for whitespot in an infected environment. But it is easier to remove an infected environment from the fish. That forms the basis for the bucket method.
 
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