Upgrade's Need Advice Please

Shaun

Shaun

Retired Moderator
Joined
29 Aug 2007
Posts
5,274
Reaction score
15
Location
KZN
Hi Guys need your input. My plans were to just add a refug to my system, due to the glass people messing me around I have now got a new complete tank to use. This is now my problem. My current tank is 900x450x450 the new one is 1200x450x450. Do I just add the new one as a Refug or do I swop tanks. If I swop tanks I want to my be do a CLC on the new one. The other problem is I don't want to change the stand so if I change the tanks it will extend 150 over the sides, I am using a 35mm post form top on top of the stand and have plenty of room for the 1200mm tank.

Please I need your guy input.
 
Ideally the bigger tank would be a better option for a display tank, but I'm not too sure about the overlap on the sides. Is post form a type of wood? What is the thickness of your base glass?

You could extend your stand slightly without having additional legs etc. just weld on a sort of triangle extension on the top of the stand on either side, but you would have to make sure it is 100% level.
 
Thalion,
The base must be the same size (or bigger than) as the tank, any overlap will put undo pressure on the base and it would probably crack within hours of filling, can you add a thick sheet of marine ply under the new tank so that it is completely supported?

With the extra on the post form you would be ok, as long as the tank is evenly placed over the stand.
 
Thalion said:
Thx Viper a post form top is the same thing that is used for kitchen counter tops. It is 35mm thick.
Click to expand...
is it like the fake granite thing?thats solid im sure it will hold.
 
Thalion sorry to be the thorn in your side but all that is, is chipboard, just veneered, it will not hold without support.

Idealy you should do as viper said weld canter leaver braces on to your existing stand.
just make sure they are level.
 
Thx again, have decided to mod the stand, the next Q is should I add a CLS to the tank. I want to do it at the back to blow behind the LR. Don't think it is a good idea to mount a pump or two behind the rock, as it may be difficult to service the pumps.

How do you guys colour the back glass, think I want to make it blue.
 
Thalion cls is a really good idea they work well, just remember to have shut off valves on the cls piping for when you need to shut the water off to service the pump.

What most guy' do here is paint the back glass, any enamal will do, I prefer velvaglo.
 
Would think that solenoids would not be to great for the pumps as there is no fade in and out?
 
Sounds like it might work. A similar principle to how the SCWD works.
 
I think it will be fine. I assume you are going to have the solenoids on timers? If so I would try and set it so that when they switch over, try and leave a few seconds between each switch over so that at that time, both of the solenoids will be fully open, thereby causing less stress on the pump if they were both closed. I think.
 
Thalion, just a thought, But the cost of 2 solenoids plus timers etc, why not look at 2 scwds, them on 2 separate pumps with 2 separate outputs.
i.e. a 3000L/ph and a 4500L/ph

this way it will always be very random.

Just a thought
 
Kanga said:
Thalion, just a thought, But the cost of 2 solenoids plus timers etc, why not look at 2 scwds, them on 2 separate pumps with 2 separate outputs.
i.e. a 3000L/ph and a 4500L/ph

this way it will always be very random.

Just a thought
Click to expand...


Thalion, Kanga has a good point here. Apart from the cost, you can have 2 scwds running in 5 minutes. Almost no effort at all. Plus it uses no electricity, no timers, no wires :)

Just something to think about.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom