Updated pics of my refugium

Discussion in 'Beginner Discussions' started by Tobes, 15 Mar 2008.

  1. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    Hi Guys, here are some pics of my refugium. The reason I made it so tall is for more water volume as I dont have space to go wider.
    The water comes in at the bottom of the refugium and flows upwards over the DSB, then over the live rock and into the compartment where the cheato is and then back to sump.

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    :wave2:
     
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  3. Kanga

    Kanga Retired Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Very nice neat set up you have there Tobes,
     
  4. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    AWESOME Tobes! Are you still going to add a DSB to the sump?
     
  5. Tobes

    Tobes Thread Starter Retired Moderator

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    No Jacques, my sump is occupied with the reefteck TS2, heater and 3 return pumps - one for the main display, one for this refugium and one for a Reefoctopus refugium(bought it at Eco-aquatics) with a DSB that "hangs" on the sump. No space for anything else.
     
  6. lanzo

    lanzo Sponsor

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    looks cool tobes but where is the return pump of the refugium.

    let me see if i can figure this one out:

    From DT gravity fed too the Sump were you have a ts2, heater, and 3pumps.
    One pump is your return pump to the DT( this is rated more than the other 2 pumps, right?), the other one is the inlet to your new refugium(dsb,LR and cheoto) and that is then pumped into your DT or sump?
    And the last pump is the inlet for your reefoctopus refugium hang on (also a dsb?)(how does this flow back)

    So you have a total of
    - 2 DSB's
    -1 cheto
    -1 LR stand
    - 6 internal pumps for the sump and two refugiums.

    Can you please paste more pic's of your enjin room.
    this is really cool tobes.
     
  7. Tobes

    Tobes Thread Starter Retired Moderator

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    Howzit Lanzo, 1 pump(located in sump) is for the DT and gravity fed back to sump. 1 pump(located in sump next to DT return pump) is for the big refugium with DSB + LR and gravity fed back to sump - overflow pipe positioned so that return water goes to DT return pump. 1 pump for Reefoctopus with DSB and gravity fed/overflow through a pipe to sump.

    All 3 pumps for DT, big refugium and small refugium are in the same sump and all 3 returns to the same sump. There is enough room for water flowing back should Eskom get funny. This is the only way I could do it because of space restrictions. It is basicly having 3 "tanks" connected to 1 sump.

    The whole system: Only 300litres

    1 Main display
    1 sump
    1 reefoctopus refugium with DSB
    1 big refugium with DSB and cheato as in picture
    1 reeftek TS2 skimmer
    1 300w heater
    2 Seio 820 flow pumps in main display
    1 flow pump in big refugium
    3 return pumps for DT and 2 refugiums
    1 250w 14000k MH
    3 mini sun LED sets
    1 mini blue moon LED set
    2 6500k energy saver globes for cheato in refugium
    1 R/O auto top up system running through a kalkwasser
    1 500litre chiller
    1 top up system for KH buffer


    Kalkwasser, top up KH system, metal halide and refugium lights are all running off digital timers. MH and refugium lights run on reverse cycle.

    O yes, I forgot - I also have salt water and live stock in there:whistling:

    Will see when I can take more pics of engine room

    Cheers for now:wave2:
     
  8. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    nice job there Tobes!
     
  9. lanzo

    lanzo Sponsor

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    this is pretty cool stuff tobes.
    What is the watt rating of your energy savers that you are using, because i'm using 15W and a 20W, can't see the Kelvin rating on them, and my cheoto doesn't want to grow lekker.
     
  10. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Lanzo,try anget bulbs that are in the range of 6500k-10k.you will get growth using those bulbs.another reason why your Chateo is taking time to grow could possibly be low nutrients
     
  11. lanzo

    lanzo Sponsor

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    hey mekael, anget bulbs???
    what must the Watts be rated on them, i'm using eurolux 15w and 20 w coolwhite
     
  12. Obi-Wan

    Obi-Wan

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    Mec Meck Mek...Spell chek chec check!?

    He means " try and get..."
    or rather "try TO GET.."

    Anget is NOT a lamp mnfr , as far I know.

     
  13. lanzo

    lanzo Sponsor

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    o.k now i'm lost:wacky:
     
  14. Tobes

    Tobes Thread Starter Retired Moderator

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    Hi Lanzo, the ones I'm using is 14W cool whites - they are usually in the 5500 - 6500K range. The "warmer" the light, the lower the kelvin rating and the more "yellow" the light appears - warm light globes are about 2700K. The "cooler" the light, the higher the kelvin rating and the more blue/purple the light appears. That is why Metal Halides of 14000K - 20000K appears so "blue".
    My cheato grows very well under these globes and I run them for 16 hours a day. Mekaeel could be right, maybe it grows very slowly because of low nutrients. :wave2:
     
  15. lanzo

    lanzo Sponsor

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    thanks tobes
     
  16. cybervic

    cybervic

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    Cool white is normally 4000k(warm white 2700k). You want daylight tubes to get 6500k. The only ones we get here are the Lumaglow ones from Checkers Hyper.
     
  17. Anemone

    Anemone

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    Nicely done!
     
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