Ugens Anemone

Discussion in 'Anemone's' started by Ugen, 15 Jun 2011.

  1. Ugen

    Ugen

    Joined:
    23 May 2011
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Durban
    Hi guys,i purchased a Sebae anemone about 2 weeks ago(bleached) however this Anemone is eating well and i hope it makes a full recovery.It has attached between a rock and the substrate.My intentions when i purchased this Anemone was that i keep it well fed and as healthy as possible untill my new tank arrives(larger than my current Boyu 550).My current tank is about 7 months old.

    I currently feed it twice a day with small pieces of deshelled prawn cut into a tiny piece which it seems to love,I also tried hake but it did not seem very happy with this.I do know my lighting for this Anemone is not the best to keep this Anemone but i have come across a post from another forum that can clarify the light issue.Would i be able to post this infomation here as it is from another forum and it seems very informative?

    Thanks
     
  2. AdS Guest




    to hide all adverts.
  3. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

    Joined:
    7 May 2007
    Posts:
    14,530
    Likes Received:
    280
    Location:
    Gonubie East London
    beware of feeding too much, as often the anemone will spit out the excess after dark.. and obviously this will decay and casue pollution and stress on the filtration.. rather only feed it when it activley takes the food from yuo or grips it...

    if you ofer it food and it is lethargig refrain from feeding for a day or 2. i fed my anemones (RBTA and STOI) once a week and they were fine
     
  4. Ugen

    Ugen Thread Starter

    Joined:
    23 May 2011
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Durban
    Currently it it takes the food by gripping it so i hope it is keeping it in.I have noticed after it takes the piece of prawn it closes up for a while then opens and the food is gone,but i will keep an eye at night to see if it expels this at night.Also can i post the link to the other forum?It has a specialist guy who knows alot about Anemones and who also has research behind him with regards to Anemones.He also talks alot about Anemones not requiring heavy lighting like Metal halides to survive but enough feeding.

    Thought some one would be interested in this,because i sure was.
     
  5. crispin

    crispin

    Joined:
    22 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    12,223
    Likes Received:
    160
    Location:
    Lilliehammer, Norway
    hi Ugen, welcome to masa I dont think ive welcomed you before:) I see 60 people have read this thread but you arent getting that much help so let me see if i can help a little in between:)

    by all means post the link of info you have found, id be interested in reading it and we love to learn so if there is some good info on the web we'd love to read it, just be sure to give credit to the other site (best to cut the section you want to highlight and post the link to that site afterwards so people can go read the whole artivcle if they wish later on.) just to diffecenciate what soemone else is saying from my own advice i often put it in bold too...

    i will demostrate from a very good article by bob fenner on wet web media (WWM is a great resource and worth trolling through for honest and correct advice on all aspects of marine husbandry...warning though there is months worth of late night reading on there!)

    bob fenner says '
    Systems:
    Size, shape... Larger and flatter versus tall and narrow is better. A minimum of sixty uncrowded gallons... Bigger is definitely an asset... to dilute metabolites, for your aquascaping expression... to allow for growth of all sessile, non-motile invertebrate life... And more shallow to allow for greater photonic energy (aka "light") penetration to light-using livestock.

    Age of the system... the tank needs to be well-established... Better to wait six months to a year... and to place the anemone AFTER all other cnidarians have become established if you're mixing them. Changeable systems chemically, physically, biologically are not for anemones.

    Pump and powerhead and overflow... intakes... Very often if an anemone "moves around" it ends up sucked up against such outputs... and if too damaged, in too small a volume, it may die and take all else with it. Make provision for adequate screening of all such gear.

    Space I'll mention yet again for waste dilution and removal... You want a good skimmer, ideally a very large refugium, with RDP lighting, macroalgae, a DSB... what you can have/do to reduce the accumulation of biochemical accumulation.

    Lighting. Sebae anemones like/need bright light! Metal halides are best, with boosted formats of fluorescents (T-5's, PC's) being okay if the animal is in shallow water (15" or less let's say). As rules of thumb go, maybe we're talking some four watts per gallon minimum in terms of gauging "intensity"... but six or more watts (as long as the other livestock, your energy bill and sunglass darkness can handle it...) is not too much light for this species.

    "Reef System" quality water... of near sea water specific gravity (1.026), high and steady pH (8.2-8.2), no detectable ammonia nor nitrite and as little nitrate accumulation as practical. Like a "canary in a cave" your Anemone will make it known if your water quality is sliding... Changes to chemistry and physics must be done outside the system... through water change-outs. These animals are exceedingly sensitive to "supplement" additions made directly to their tanks. Don't do this......

    the full article can be read here...HeteracCrispa

    Note that your nennie is more commonly refered to as heteractis crispa and doing a google on that name might give you more info.

    now from my side there are a couple of things I am worried about with regards to what you have posted. Firstly the tank that it is in (boyu 550) doesnt have sufficient light for this nennie. a bubble tip might at a stretch be able to do well, but not a crispa in my view. also your tank is younge and thus things are still changing with regards to biological filtration, LR maturity and sand bed maturity and your own abilities as a reefer. thats why generally its reccomnded to wait a good year for the tank to mature before adding any form of annenome.

    Its great to hear you have a bigger tank comming:thumbup: always nice to upgrade, but in most likliness that tank is a good 1.5 years away from being ready for a nennie, which is a bit of a problem, especially if you planned to just swap smaller tank over to larger tank.

    My advice would be to upgrade the lighting you have over the boyu to a 70w MH or 150WMH and keep the nennie in there for a long period while the bigger tank matures. although you would need to have the lights suspended quite high above the nennie so as not to 'light shock it' by suddenly changing the light intencity too fast. Later on you can lower the light so the nennie (and other organisms in the tank) have a chance to adapt.

    While feeding a nennie is important (especially a bealched nennie) its estimated that 80% of a nennies diet is due to its symbiotic relationship with its zooaxethela algae which use the light avaialable to produce nutricion via photosynthesis. thats what gives the nennies their colour and is the reason that light is so important to them. So please dont think that a nennie can be kept in inadequitely lit tanks and supplimentary fed as a long term sollution.

    there is alot to read through in this post already so i'll stop for now :)

    any chance of a pic of the nennie?​
     
    Alan likes this.
  6. Anemone

    Anemone

    Joined:
    19 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    2,686
    Likes Received:
    32
    Location:
    USA - Chicago Area
    Good information Crispin!




    Feedings can be used as a supplement for lack of lighting. How much can be supplemented safely is the tough part.


    As Crispin posted, the height of the tank plays a huge rule in deciding how much light is sufficient.

    When it comes to H. Crispa, Metal Halide is not a must have. However, I wouldn’t use anything less than T-5 that have good individual reflectors. PC lighting just isn't going to cut it long term. If your anemone is already bleached, it may not do well short term.

    Be careful with the twice a day feedings, it may be too much.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 15 Jun 2011
  7. Ugen

    Ugen Thread Starter

    Joined:
    23 May 2011
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Durban
    Thank you for all that information,I have read alot about H Crispa and will continue.I also will cut down the feeding as you say.Pics to follow soon.By the way I have oredered another hood for my tank that comes with a built in metal halide,so that should help as well.

    Here is the link:
    Host Anemone & lighting [Archive] - Reef Central Online Community Archives

    Thanks again
     
    Last edited: 15 Jun 2011
  8. Ugen

    Ugen Thread Starter

    Joined:
    23 May 2011
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Durban
    Any responses after checking the link?
     
  9. Anemone

    Anemone

    Joined:
    19 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    2,686
    Likes Received:
    32
    Location:
    USA - Chicago Area
    I will take a look at the link when I have more time. It's a long one. I did notice its from 2001. Typically I don't read information that old. But I do recognize a few good names, so I will give it a read.
     
  10. crispin

    crispin

    Joined:
    22 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    12,223
    Likes Received:
    160
    Location:
    Lilliehammer, Norway
    i'll wait for brenda to send me the synopsis :)
     
  11. crispin

    crispin

    Joined:
    22 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    12,223
    Likes Received:
    160
    Location:
    Lilliehammer, Norway
    that sounds like a good upgrade for the tank Ugen:thumbup: your sps if you have any, will be happier too :)
     
  12. Ugen

    Ugen Thread Starter

    Joined:
    23 May 2011
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Durban
    By adding the light i will now have to invest in a chiller as well,anyways i will need it when i get the new tank so all good.

    I really thought responses from Dr Ron was quiet informative,now that I have an Anemone.

    Thanks guys
     
  13. crispin

    crispin

    Joined:
    22 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    12,223
    Likes Received:
    160
    Location:
    Lilliehammer, Norway
    a chiller is a good idea anyway :)
     
  14. KeeganP

    KeeganP

    Joined:
    23 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    1,880
    Likes Received:
    53
    :thumbup: Ugen you can sponsor me a chiller too :D
     
  15. crispin

    crispin

    Joined:
    22 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    12,223
    Likes Received:
    160
    Location:
    Lilliehammer, Norway
    ive had a skim read through that thread, not each post and i skipped section to catch up later. but frankly i think methods and thinking has come on since 2001 and the number of people arguing against keeping nennies in low light conditions from researchers in the field to clown fish breeders and aquarium owners that I would say keeping nennies under low light will lead to sub-obtimal feeding and the slow decline of the animal, especially one thats bleached.
     
  16. Ugen

    Ugen Thread Starter

    Joined:
    23 May 2011
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Durban
    Well my Anemone has been eating well and has not moved,his colour has become a bit Yellowish and the tank parameters are all good.I however have noticed that the Anemone looks well expanded with large tentacles at night(basically looking very healthy at night than during the day) a little smaller during the day with not all tentacles fully expanded(half of Anemone is shaded by overhead rock ), I am assuming this is because the Anemone was bleached when I got it and never did get lots of light(maybe still getting accustomed).Any thoughts out there?

    Thanks
     
  17. Anemone

    Anemone

    Joined:
    19 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    2,686
    Likes Received:
    32
    Location:
    USA - Chicago Area
    Have you changed the lighting? Can you post a pic?
     
  18. Ugen

    Ugen Thread Starter

    Joined:
    23 May 2011
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Durban
    I have replaced new bulbs on my current hood,still awaiting delivery of the new lights,Maybe the new bulbs could have an affect as well,never thought about that.The new bulbs is a little brighter but not that much.

    Will post a pic,it is a bit hard to post a pic of it at night though.Will try
     
  19. Anemone

    Anemone

    Joined:
    19 Jan 2008
    Posts:
    2,686
    Likes Received:
    32
    Location:
    USA - Chicago Area
    My guess is that it is the new bulbs. This is good to let it adjust to a fresh bulb before making the change to the stronger lighting. Good choice! Day light photo is fine...it will give me a better idea of what is going on.
     
  20. Ugen

    Ugen Thread Starter

    Joined:
    23 May 2011
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Durban
    Before light change:

    [​IMG]
     
  21. Ugen

    Ugen Thread Starter

    Joined:
    23 May 2011
    Posts:
    77
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Durban
    After light change: there is some colour at the bottom that i noticed.

    [​IMG]
     
Recent Posts

Loading...
Similar Threads - Ugens Anemone Forum Date
[wtd] Green bubble tip anemone Wanted 25 Oct 2016
Anemone ID ID Needed 16 Oct 2016
How long to drip aclimate a sand anemone? Anemone's 4 Oct 2016
[wtd] Anemone Wanted 27 Sep 2016
Desperately looking for an inferno bubble tip anemone! General Discussions and Advice 26 Sep 2016
Anemone Id confirmation ID Needed 25 Sep 2016
Sand anemone Anemone's 25 Sep 2016