Top up water Question

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by Warr7207, 6 Jul 2008.

  1. Warr7207

    Warr7207

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    Hi Hennie

    My topup compartment is basically a seperate chamber on my sump, so I just refill it as and when required.

    I dose my BiCarb, Baking soda and Kalk via the auto top up.

    I get quite abit of precepiate overtime. Thanks to Sunburst's explanation it's probably is Calcium Carbonate.

    Is it OK, just to leave it and take it out when it creates a thicker layer?

    Can this Carbonate ever be used for the tank's dosing ?
     
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  3. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    Yes, the white precipitate most likely is calcium carbonate.

    Calcium carbonate is basically the same stuff that coral 'rock' is made of, so it won't cause any harm to the tank even if it is present in large amounts. It is, however, possible that calcium carbonate crystals could grow (precipitate) quicker onto pre-existing crystals that when forming new crystals, and if you keep your calcium and alkalinity levels abnormally high you might want to regularly remove any precipitate, but under normal conditions I would not bother...

    I hope that you are not dosing all three additives into the auto-topup reservoir - that would most certainly cause massive precipitation, and would basically defeat the purpose of adding those chemicals.

    I would suggest that you drip the kalk (slaked lime) directly into an area of fast-flowing water, ideally directly into the overflow from the tank, or into the same chamber as the skimmer intake. The baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and/or baked baking soda (sodium carbonate) can be added anywhere else in the sump (or even into the overflow as well, as the water really moves too fast there for any appreciable increase in pH due to the kalk dripping there (if that is what you're doing...). You could add it to the auto topup as well, as long as you are not adding any kalk or calcium chloride ('turbo calcium') into it.

    Yes, if you can add it into a calcium reactor. Calcium carbonate will readily re-dissolve at a pH of around 6 - 6.5. It will also become part of the sand bed if you just scrape it off the glass and let it settle out of suspension - or it will be over grown with coralline algae, or act as a natural 'rock' substrate if you leave it to become thick enough (and of course if you have enough light where it has precipitated...)

    Hennie
     
  4. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    Thanks again for a detailed reply. I have been dosing Kalk and BiCarb in the same chamber.

    Will stop doing that :p

    I am not dosing as much kalk as I have a CaRx up and running now.
     
  5. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    although you have your Carx,continue with kalk in your top up,to help stabalize your ph.
     
  6. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    That is what I have been doing, but the kalk consumption has halved, also not seeing much fluctuation in pH. It is more my Alk I want to get down, way too high.
     
  7. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    remember you can safely run you alk at 10 Dkh if your nutrients are high. In a very low to nutrient poor enviroment, run you alk between 6.5-8 DKH.anything higher will cause Tissue Necrossis in SPS corals.
     
  8. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    Wow, didn't know that, thanks
     
  9. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    well we learn something new every day,not only in this hobby,but life aswell :)
     
  10. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    Ha, ha, I wish
     
  11. Ocean

    Ocean Lazy Sea Slug

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    Mekaeel please explain that in more detail realy intresting. What do you mean nutrients poor, low stocking load or low nitrates phosphates?
     
  12. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Hey Jason,Nutrient poor means very little phosphate and Nitrate to almost 0 or 0.
    the bioload doesnt matter,you can have a low bioload or a heavy bioload,its just up to you to romove the nutrients ie. through heavy skimming,small feeds, regular water changes......a good example of low nutrient/nutrient poor would be the Zeovit system (thats the goal of Zeovit).
     
  13. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Mekaeel - don't forget - OVERSKIMMING also adds to a system being nutrient poor.
     
  14. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    yebo,thats the reason why i mentioned "heavy skimming", rather than just skimming. :)
     
  15. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    LOL! Sorry Mekaeel - missed the words "heavy skimming" ;-) Still early on a Monday morning - my eyes still have to focus!
     
  16. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    like wise buddy,Monday is terrible for all of us lol
     
  17. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    by the way,my eyes are too focused on the Brazilian surfer chicks that are departing from Windemere now,these chicks were competing in the Mr Price Pro surfing competition.eish.....
     
  18. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    I can't use kalk in my top up as I dose BiCarb. I will dose kalk manually in the overflow
     
  19. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    you wouldnt need to dose Bicarb now as your Carx will be taking care of you Alk.use bicarb only if there is a drop in alk.rather focus on kalk to keep your ph up :)
     
  20. Warr7207

    Warr7207 Thread Starter

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    OK, that sounds good. So what do I do with the 2kg BiCarb :whistling:
     
  21. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    keep the bicarb,only use it in emergency cases where you have to raise the alk of the tank should it drop to very low levels. ie. below 6
     
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