Thinkin' of building my own stand & Tank

Discussion in 'Anything DIY Related' started by emteey, 5 May 2010.

  1. emteey

    emteey

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    Hi,

    What do you guys think of building your own DT? It doesn't look too difficult, by that I mean all the research I've done, the process looks the same.

    I want to build a 1220(l) x 700(b) x 500(h) DT. I have looked at Hennie's glass calculator that suggests I should use 12mm for the sides & 15mm for the base. I get nervous thought thinking that silicone will hold all this together!!!

    I would put two braces lengthwise along the bottom (1220 x 50) with four braces along the breadth of the bottom (600 x 50).

    As for the top, I would put two braces right on top of the tank over the corners lengthwise (1220 x 60) and then again four braces joining the sides (650 x 50).

    I am looking around to see if it is advisable to put corner braces on the tank, i.e. aluminium braces, to help reinforce the joins.

    Views please ...
     
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  3. emteey

    emteey Thread Starter

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    As for the stand I was thinking 38mm sqr tubing, I'll post a drawing of my idea tomorrow
     
  4. emteey

    emteey Thread Starter

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    Will I be able to bond the glass for the tank with an epoxy? Or silicone? What brands should I go with?
     
  5. emteey

    emteey Thread Starter

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    Here is a diagram for the stand.

    The length of the stand is 1220 and the breadth 700. The height is around 850, this should give me enough space inside the cabinet to work in my sump.

    The idea is to use 38mm square tubing. Is this too much? will 25mm do or should I go bigger with 50mm? I see that zombie clam is using 25mm and it does not look like he has as many braces as I do in my design.

    Opinions?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 6 May 2010
  6. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    are you sure those calculations are right with all that bracing it seems like overkill, dont think you would need the corner braces at all.
    The silicone will be fine we all use it. you can use and silicone rated for marine use just need to let it cure befor you add water to test for leaks.
     
  7. 459b

    459b Moderator MASA Contributor

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    i dont think youll need four braces across the top. thats going to limit access to your tank.
     
  8. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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  9. andries

    andries

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    tagging along;)
     
  10. emteey

    emteey Thread Starter

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    Hi, I think both of you are right. I would rather suggest too much than too little. Thanks for your input! :thumbup:
     
  11. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    i agreed with you rather to much than to little, but dont put to much bracing at the top as it will greatly reduce your acces to inside the tank and then your maintences of the tank will be hindered greatly. also if your like 300% over the safety factors that everyone else is using all its doing is raising the cost of the glass and thats money you can spend elsewhere ie a bigger skimmer, better pumps, reactors, etc
     
  12. emteey

    emteey Thread Starter

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    Thanks, I'll check the site out. I have seen the term rimless before, but I don't actually know what a rimless tank is or looks like :whistling:. Please shed some light on the issue for me.
     
  13. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    I would reccommend 10mm sides and a 12mm base (as per a safety factor of 3.8), although you could get away with a 10mm base assuming it was sitting on a solid platform and not just on the edge of a steel stand, reducing the glass to 8mm is also a real possibility if you brace the top and are happy with a safety factor of about 3.1 - 3.4 depending on what your water height will be . Bracing on the base is non negotiable and i would reccommend at least some bracing on the top as well

    12mm sides is a complete overkill and waste of money IMO

    The stand i am no engineer, but would not reccommend 25mm, 38mm is prob fine but i went for 50mm on my new tank with less bracing
     
  14. emteey

    emteey Thread Starter

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    What size holes should be drilled into the tank:
    1) for the outlet? 50mm? I was thinking of having a 50mm overflow
    2) the inlet? I was thinking of having two inlets, one on each side of the tank.

    My idea is to have all the plumbing at the back of the tank, I would like as little "technology" inside the tank a possible.
     
  15. emteey

    emteey Thread Starter

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    Quite right: 10mm sides & 12mm base, with three braces at the top, two on the sides & one in the middle.

    As for the stand 50mm would probably be safer as I do not want a support in front as I want to have easy access to my sump & skimmer.
     
  16. PeterL

    PeterL

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    I am not a structural engineer, but I can tell you that 50mm is certain overkill. 38mm is a good size which will give you all the strength you will ever need. Your bracing I can tell you is incorect, maiking "triangles" with your bracing provides a great deal more "stiffness" or rigidity to the structure because what it does is transfer movement through the legs of the stand on into the floor - hence actually not moving at all. you can leave the front of the stand completely open without bracing for access to all your eqipment, however gusseted style bracing or simply brace all the corners with the same size members as the main frame will solidify the entire structure more correctly than straigh up down or left to right posts - all those supports actualy do is prevent te steel from bowing when being pulled.

    The tank is not being pulled in any tirection, in every direction the stand is in a compression structure, the technically correct structural manner is angled bracing.

    If it hold large vibrating machinery 30m+ in the air and prevents the structure from moving, and holds tower cranes together with only that form of structure - why would your tank move if you follow the priciples of similarity?
     
  17. andries

    andries

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    I'm also still learning, but 50mm is overkill you can go with 38mm with bracing in the correct places;) you can try to get Solid Works which is a CAD program where you can draw your stand design and simulate the weight it will take and it will tell you extactly if it will fail and where the stress points are in the structure even for differnt types of material:thumbup:
     
  18. Pads

    Pads

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    I'd suggest a 38mm square tube with a 2mm wall thickness. A standard square box with a back center vertical strut and some corner gusset braces. Also you'll want a few horizontal braces on the top and bottom where both tank and sump will sit. ie) no hole in the center.
     
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