Tank bracing

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by shane, 20 Dec 2007.

  1. shane

    shane

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    Hi all,
    I have just received a 4 foot tank from a friend yesterday and would like some info. Firstly the tank is as follows 1.2 by 0.5 by 0.5(LxWxB) it is made of 10 mm glass and has a centre brace across the top.Now my question is, is it possible to remove this centre brace as I would like to incorporate a c2c across the back glass much the same as the new tank Marinemagic is busy with,(I hope you dont mind Marinemagic,I thought that idea was great.) Secondly if I drill the back glass for a cls how far from the edge should I start the hole for the nozzles(planning on having 4 holes for cls).
    Cheers
     
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  3. cybervic

    cybervic

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    Can't say on the brace, but the distance from the side should be at least the diameter of the hole. 10mm should be able to withstand the pressure without a brace, but I'd consult the experts about that. There is a calculator on the site that should be able to help you with the calculations. The safty factor should be 3.8

    Wikus
     
  4. KevinW

    KevinW

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    Why do you need to remove the centre brace?
     
  5. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    i think its safe to remove the brace as its 10mm glass,and the tank isnt all that large
     
  6. shane

    shane Thread Starter

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    Hi,
    Just to answer a few questions,KevinW:I was thinking of using a c2c in the tank but I wanted to put the box section(part for the durso standpipe) in the middle and have the c2c either side of the box.If the brace is kept then this plan will not work as the box section will be under the brace.Cybervic if I understand you correctly then I should leave a holes width away from the edge before drilling the hole, is that correct?
    The tank holds 300 liters by my calcs. but I intend to fill the tank to about 0.45mm deep and this equals about 270 liters.
    Cheers
     
  7. Mike

    Mike Retired Moderator

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    Removing brace bars is risky, but a 4ft tank in 10mm should be very strong, could you remove the brace bar and then fill while measuring the width of the tank? if it starts to give, then clearly it will probably break at some point, BUT if you then drill 4 holes in the back, i reckon you are doubling your chances of a very wet floor.
     
  8. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    well maybe you can remove the centre brace and add on 2 side front to back braces
     
  9. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Hi shane.

    I agree with Mekaeel. I would definitely add two brace bars, running front to back, one on each side of the tank (the short ends). You can stop your C2C right against this side brace....

    It's always better to be safe than sorry.

    My 2 metre tank also has a very long brace running all along the front (running left to right) as well. IF you do remove the centre brace - I would perhaps want to play it safe and add all 3 these extra braces....

    In the end it is your decision....... Removing the centre brace and NOT adding any other braces COULD work - and it might work for a while still.....
     
  10. KevinW

    KevinW

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    Why not just move the box slightly off center? Or make it wider so that you can get a durso on each side of the center brace. Would be easier than removing one brace and putting two back/ Also what would that do to your lighting?
     
  11. sunburst

    sunburst

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    Can you not use an external box and Dursos.
     
  12. Galibore

    Galibore Retired Moderator

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    Shane,

    Why do you need a box? Just put the dursos external with the 90degree part inside the C2C.
     
  13. sunburst

    sunburst

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    Of course why didn't i think of that
     
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