Tangs Dying with White Spot

Discussion in 'Quarantine Tanks, sick fish, QT corals' started by Triton, 26 Jan 2012.

  1. Triton

    Triton

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    Hey guys,

    Hope someone can help!
    Iv had a Powder brown, Naso and Gold eye tang die of white spot. :(

    Is there anyway i can get rid of this parasite in my DT and prevent it from coming back?

    I am thinking of getting a Hailea ozone reactor connected straight into my TS2 Skimmer, will this help?
     
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  3. rakabos

    rakabos

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    Drop your salinity, if u dont have corals that is, quickest fix. If you have coral, then best you set up a hospital tank with lower salinity.
     
    Last edited: 26 Jan 2012
  4. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    I "think" if you take out all the live stock and leave the tank empty for say 2mths there will be no "host" for the WS... then it might die?:whistling:
     
  5. belindamotion

    belindamotion Google Master

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    Some info to get you started...
    Fish Disease and Treatment
    Marine Ich


    Some natural treatments to choose from...
    Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com
    Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part II by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com
     
  6. shaunn

    shaunn

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    my tangs also have ich dame shit it is but i have been useding hebtana for 5 days now and seams to be working well the only down side is ur skimmer need to be off fro 10 day but its working so atm it worth a try
     
  7. Triton

    Triton Thread Starter

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    whats hebtana? is it reef safe as i have shrimp, hermits and soft/hard corals ?
     
  8. shaunn

    shaunn

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    sorry i ment herbtana and yes it is reef safe my shrimps are doing fine as well as the coral's
     
  9. Triton

    Triton Thread Starter

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    where can i get some?
     
  10. shaunn

    shaunn

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  11. shaunn

    shaunn

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    most Good LFS sell it i got mine @ wild on pets also i would get some food with garlic in it or get a garlic drops and soak ur food in it it i think kent makes it it also seamed to help
     
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  12. Triton

    Triton Thread Starter

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    Cool i will try it out..
    What about an ozone reactor.. doesn't that kill parasites?
     
  13. shaunn

    shaunn

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    yea and all the good bactrea aswell
     
  14. Triton

    Triton Thread Starter

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    oh no u serious.. so whats the point of the reactor then.. waist of money..
     
  15. shaunn

    shaunn

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    qurenten tanks use them
     
  16. mytank

    mytank

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    To kill WS, well my good old enemy, there are so many different theory's. Killing in a DT (and I am mean KILLING IT not TREATING IT) is close to impossible. The only really way is to have a sterile DT and never let fish with WS come into the DT.

    But I have similar tang's to what you have and they had WS and there are ways to treat the WS:

    You need to find out the reason for the WS, is it just from being introduced from a fish (if so then prob your powder blue ;)) - but then it's in your tank. :(

    If its aggression in your tank then you have this equation: Aggression = Stress = Weaking of immune system = Possible Death.

    WS can be in a tank for AGES and only pop up when the fish are stressed.


    Here are some tips that have been helping my little buggers. They looking so much better.

    1. Feed them like they come from somalia, mine get so much norry that they are about to pop. The norry is soaked in Garlic and I put some SeaChem Metrozole and SeaChem Focus on the norry. At night they get a mixture that I made with the above medicine mixed into the food. Make sure that you have LOADS of Garlic (Debates if this helps), Vitamins (always helps).


    2. Make sure you try and reduce the stress in the tank. If you have aggression (depending on the level):

    2.1 Low = Give them time to chill
    2.2 Low to Medium = Move the rock work around to force them to find new territory
    2.3 Medium to High = Use Egg crate to separate the tank
    2.4 High = Remove some of the tangs. - Sump different tank etc

    3. Keep the tanks Params well - ESP TEMP!

    REMEMBER:

    When adding the tangs it's usually a good idea to do the following:

    1. Plan if you can add ALL the tangs AT THE SAME time, helps with them to get use to each other
    2. If you can't make sure the tanks is BLACK no light and add the new TANG

    Tangs like (in order):

    1. Souhl (*spelling) Tang
    2. Clown Tang
    3. Purple Tang
    4. Powder Blue\Brown\ xxx tang


    I can only give you my experience. I now have tangs that are FAT and look like they recovering pretty well.

    Also chat to or hope @Achilles chips in here, he helped me tons!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  17. ziyaadb

    ziyaadb

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    Dude sorry to hear about your issues.
    IMPO and experience in order to beat white spot you need to treat with copper or the bucket method and leave your tank fishless for 2 months.
    NOTHING else will work all the others are immune boosters and snake oil. It may seem that you have beaten it but its still there waiting for an opportunity to come back.

    Read the article:
    Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com
     
  18. mytank

    mytank

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    Herbatana is a GREAT product, but lets first understand what it does. It does NOT CURE WS, it helps the immune system boost itself to allow the fish to fight off the WS. It does the same thing as feeding them well with Vitamins etc.. In my HUMBLE opinion
     
  19. shaunn

    shaunn

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    @ziyaadb if u can catch my fish with out distrying the rest of the tank i will gladly use ur method
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  20. mytank

    mytank

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    @ziyaadb I agree with you - BUT I don't think it's always possible. WS comes in (could even been with fresh LR..) its almost impossible to avoid it (NOTE: ALMOST).

    Here is the thought process for ME...

    The fish are already in, the fish are already stressed. Get them back to health if I can before copper etc..
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  21. Achilles

    Achilles

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    ok, lets understand a couple of things here. you say that a whole lot of tangs died but dont say what conditions water parameters etc they are in, White spot very rarely ever kills fish in the wild as it remains a low infection it becomes a problem in captivity because the parasites overwhelm the fish's ( which are already stressed )immune system

    IF you provide the best possible size tank, little over crowding and minimize stress coupled with very good non fluctuating water parameters then the fish will often be able to overcome whitespot with their own immune system( some fish have little chance of getting immunity and will always show a small or latent infection most often Acanthurus Tangs)

    There are 2 things you can do- try to obliterate whitespot from your tank ( this seldom works but is possible and is very hard it kinda makes the hobby very difficult/not fun as you have to work in almost lab conditions treat everything with harmful chemicals and often the fish will die from these not whitespot)
    Quarantine helps alot but more for preventing lethal diseases, to try obliterate whitespot you can Hypo the tank, treat fish with medicines and quarantine EVERYTHING WET (hands/tools used in fish quarantine tank included) from the main display for at least 12 weeks.Fallow display for 12 weeks and make sure that any fish reintroduced have been treated for 12 weeks at right dosages/ or salinity for hypo (1.009)

    Please note that even if you succeed if you make one little mistake in the process like not the right dose ,not the right hypo level, adding a piece of caulerpa(that wasnt Quarantined) You will be back to square one.

    The second thing you can do is get your fish to a point where they can fight the whitespot themselves, boost their immunity, reduce stress, dont overcrowd fish( maybe give some aggressive fish away) , give them lots of territory and feed them immune boosters.Fish can become immune with full or partial immunity for up to 6 months that is how long their immune cells last before they make new ones which dont have the protection from whitespot yet.

    Also you can fight the parasite using Ozone in a reactor( protein skimmer- ozone resistant ones only) Ozone helps not so much with whitespot but any secondary infection that whitespot may cause;if used with a redox meter and reactor it wont harm good bacteria in the main display - redox should never go over 400mv

    Ultraviolet sterilization- here to beat whitespot you need the proper flow rate and a proper uv sterilizer designed for marine use not ponds - flow and dwell time are crucial to killing whitespot it is large and needs tons of radiation to kill it, again uv will minimize secondary infections look at kill charts on sites of good UV makers like TMC UV and Aqua uv they give radiation doses for killing whitespot- this will not cure whitespot but reduce its numbers. Also try to micron filter water before UV it increases its effectiveness

    Water changes and Wet skimming can also help greatly by removing numbers of parasites improving water parameters but make sure the water is properly mixed and not differing in Ph . kh and Temp from main display when you change it.Temp fluctuations are a huge Stress factor to fish anything more than 1-2 degrees from normal is not good

    IF you go the second route your fish will still live healthy long lives but any new addition will be subjected to the latent white spot hence the need for quarantine and minimizing aggression in main display, if these fail you will have an outbreak again and have to work hard again to reduce parasites and stress- abit like cold/flu in your life , you will have alot before you die but if you let them become pneumonia they could kill you! Also it takes time to fix this problem dont expect any overnight success Whitespot goes through cycles

    hope this helps ;)
     
    Last edited: 26 Jan 2012
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