T5's not working!

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Pads, 9 Mar 2010.

  1. Pads

    Pads

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    Hey guys, I bought 2 x 54w Actinic's yesterday to connect with my ballast I wired up in my hood. They fit lovely and neatly but once they're connected up with the mains they turn on for a minute then go out. If I cut the power and reconnect then they blink on and off again.

    Can anyone with electrical knowledge explain what the prob might be. Shot ;)
     
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  3. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    So I called the gent that sold me the ballast to ask what he thinks, it could be the following 1.) Wiring
    2.) Globes
    3.) Fittings
    4.) Ballast

    OMG, that's vague. There is no way I'm gonna trip down the whole hood. I guess I'll take the globes back and ask them to be tested there.

    Another question, the T5 Ballast has like 7 terminals and usually the middle one, No.4 is free. Is that a earth terminal? It does not have the earth sign above it but could that be the problem?
     
  4. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    If you can post some photo's of the ballast, both ends and the diagram on top so that we can see what is going on, all T5 ballasts are wired up differently.

    You need to keep your wires as short as possible.
    The wires mustn't be too thick.
    Is the ballast rated at 2 x 54w?

    I bought 2 single T5 ballasts, chinese ones, they also flicked on once and then went off, I tossed those and bought a more expensive ballast, all working 100% now.
     
  5. Francois

    Francois

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    Hi Pads

    Had the similar problem this past weekend..If your globes go on for a few seconds then it is not your globes or ballast. The problem sits by the wiring and fittings(End Caps) You are going to have to check the wiring again and for any loose connections.Make sure all cables are tightly fitted in the ballaster. And to check if your fittings(End Caps) are faulty,get some chocolate blocks and use it as a fitting for the light. If it goes on then you'll know that your fittings are faulty.
     
  6. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    Dual Ballast rated for 2 x 54w globes. I'll take a photo to post.
    I don't think its cheapy ballast, same oke who supplies Lanzo and Moolis. I think the quickest is to get the globes tested. Gotta be a process of elimination I guess.
     
  7. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    Hey Francois. Chocolate blocks? Like strip connectors?
     
  8. Singularity

    Singularity Hmmm amper!

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    is it Vossloh-Schwabe ballasts ?
     
  9. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    Jeeezzz now you pushing it. That sounds familiar but I'd be lying if I knew exactly, sorry dude. Why do you ask?
     
  10. Francois

    Francois

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    Yes

    And your earth connector will be close to you live and neutral, not close to your terminal connectors.
     
  11. Singularity

    Singularity Hmmm amper!

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    Had problems with those ballast when they were close together etc, would run 3, each on its own works perfectly but if you try to switch on all of them 1 turns off.... sorted the problem out by waiting a couple of minutes before turning on each ballast...
     
  12. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    Ok, The earth from my main is connected with the Ballast by the Live/Neutral. Once that is connected does the ballast earth itself? Pls excuse my ignorance :blush:

    Oooohhhh I gonna hate removing/opening these Waterproof end caps!
     
  13. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    Good to know. Lucky in this case I've on'y got one but I've left room for another. I'll mount it on the opposite end now thanks to your info :thumbup:
     
  14. Francois

    Francois

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    Hi Pads

    Not a problem:thumbup:

    Your ballaster should have two side for connections on the left hand side you'll get your earth/live and neutral and the other side you'll get your terminal connectors for your fittings. If you connected your earth on the left hand side your ballaster is earthed... this means if there was an electrical leakage some where by your ballaster or terminal connectors the electrical current will leak to the earth connector back to the plug and not on your unit where ya can get an electrical shock.
     
  15. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    Nah then I'm wired it right on that side. I'm not getting any shocks.
    Here are some pics of my wiring and a vid of the lights.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    T5's Switching off video by pads_aiii - Photobucket
     
  16. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    The other thing I want to clarify is, does the wiring have to be inline? Will a cross over between the lines connected with bulbs pins make a difference?

    [​IMG]

    I've opened up my End Caps and they all seem to be wired securely with proper contact.
     
  17. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    No, you need to follow the wiring diagram on top of the ballast exactly as it is printed.
     
  18. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    Well, I did a little bit of troubleshooting on my llighting. After opening up the end caps and checking that the wiring was correct, which I'm glad to say it was.
    I turned off my 2 x MH's for a few hours, then turned the T5's on and they've remained on for the last hour. A 59min improvement from the first attempt.

    Then I turned the MH's back on and all is working fine. Maybe it was as Singularity suggested. Some interferance from the other ballasts.


    Thx for the help okes :thumbup::yeahdude:
     
  19. Singularity

    Singularity Hmmm amper!

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    yeah, its weird i had 2 electricians out that do t5 wiring on advertisment boards to have a look and they couldnt explain it, just that it could be electronic interference... but it was only with the vossloh-scwhabe ballast, switched over to osram and no problems.
     
  20. Moolis Moolman

    Moolis Moolman Pet Stop SA Sponsor

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    Hi

    When wiring a DIY T5 unit we found the following pointers to be very important:
    1. Use solid core wiring, as it is recommended on the ballast
    2. plug the wire in the hole below the V, wire slided onto the V tend to slip out over time = FRUSTRATION!!!
    3. Test all connections in these hole by pulling them back slightly, that ensure a good connection
    4. keep exactly to the diagram, do ensure that you have the same ballasts 2 end cap on it and not swap them around
    5. We love to use small chocolate blocks, screwed lightly onto the T5, if it is to tight you damage the point!
    6. As the LFS to test the T5 before you leave the shop ( we test them when we receive them to ensure quality)
    7. Testing the ballast at the LFS is difficult, but our experience is that 1 out of 100 might fail
    8. Do not do the wiring outside the hood and then try to install it into the hood, all that movement might dislodge a connection
    9. Install the ballast outside the lid/hood away from the humidity
    10. That strange "squiggly" line indicated at the power side is earth, connect it!
    11. If one wire do not make a connection, both lights will stay off
    M2C
     
  21. Pads

    Pads Thread Starter

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    Top stuff mate. Since my last post the light have been faulty again. I haven't been using solid core or connecting in the slot below the 'V'. This may be a few area's I can check. Any particular reason for using the solid core?
     
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