Super simple zoa frag tank setup?

Discussion in 'Frag Tanks' started by Evo R, 10 May 2013.

  1. Evo R

    Evo R

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    Hey guys,

    I would like to hear your experieces and advise. I want to start a frag tank/s just for zoas.
    The simpler and cheaper the better!!

    I was thinking of sumpless tank with no skimmer and bare bottom, with just flow pumps heater and t5's and say weekly water changes?!?

    Then in the DT egg crate and frag plugs.

    No fish or CUC.

    Would this be too simple or am i missing something as this would be only zoas that i want to propagate.

    Any and all advise would really be appresiated!!
     
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  3. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer

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    With no skimmer means you will have to add some sort of oxygen into the tank. And from personal experience, a frag tank without any herbivores is an algae magnet. And new eggcrate grows quite a bit of algae in the beginning.
     
    Last edited: 10 May 2013
  4. Wesd

    Wesd

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    I personally dont see why it wouldnt work (ive got 4 zoa frags that i collected a few weeks ago in my tank that has two 39W T5s,one daylight one actinic, and they are already growing new polyps :thumbups: ), you definately dont need a sump just for frags and as long as you do water changes weekly they should be perfectly fine (lets be honest zoas are pretty bullet proof as far as corals go ;) ) how big are you looking to go? you could also think about making a staggered rack out of the eggcrate (like a staircase shape) to make better use of the space in the tank. A small piece of LR in there to add a bit of life couldnt hurt either. Just my opinion though, goodluck with your plans :)
     
  5. shan

    shan

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    Have a look at nano-reefs forum, the guys there run full nano tanks with just an aqua clear 70, live rock and good lights. So you can do it.
     
  6. Evo R

    Evo R Thread Starter

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    I thought by not using a skimmer means that I don't have to feed the zoas and seeing as there is no livestock in the tank means "less" filtration is needed. I just don't know if carbon is necessary as the zoas secrete toxins when sliced and diced. But maybe add a airstone for some form of oxygenation and a pump or two for flow.
     
  7. Wesd

    Wesd

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    You could run an internal canister filter, that way you get your flow, filtration and air (it should come with an airline attachment that draws air into the powerhead). I run a cascade 300 internal canister in my 30L quarentine tank and it works an absolute treat, plus it was also pretty cheap at about R 180, and if you are looking for something a little bigger have a look at the Resun SP-2500L internal power filter, also does a great job and you can get them for about R 300
     
  8. Evo R

    Evo R Thread Starter

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    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  9. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    you need an overflow, even if the overflow chamber pumps directly back to the tank. Reason is that the junk that collect on the surface stays there. And blocks the light and it just is yucky.

    Or any other method to skim the surface.

    I once had a quarantine tank setup that looked like a 3 chamber sump. The central "DSB" area was the "display". Big first chamber with caulerpa as extra filtration. And return chamber filled up with bio-balls as more filtration. It worked.
     
  10. mornewil

    mornewil Morne

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    im running a tl550 standard. very simple
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Even a quarantine tank needs an overflow.
     
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