Sump design project

Discussion in 'Anything DIY Related' started by knut-ove, 2 Feb 2010.

  1. knut-ove

    knut-ove

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    Hi.

    I am planing to build a new sump and need some input on how to construct it.
    My display tank is 1,8x0,7x0,7 about 800L
    I am thinking to use 6mm glass for it, what spacing do I need for the silicone?
    For the first drawing I am using 6mm

    Here is what I have planed so far, please advice:p

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. knut-ove

    knut-ove Thread Starter

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    Ups, wrote something wrong on the drawing... :whistling:The 100mm pvc pipe is for air reduction...Trapping the air bobbles
     
  4. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Looks good Knut-Ove. Just a quick question - can you not make the DSB section slightly bigger?
     
  5. knut-ove

    knut-ove Thread Starter

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    Maybe.

    I`l have to check what space I have available when I am home from work:whistling:
    What space do you recommend? I`l also have to make some space for a zeovit reactor.
     
  6. mnd123

    mnd123

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    Knut, mine is exactly the same as yours, I have baffles before the TS4, then TS4, then DSB, then a return chamber whic I made small as my pump is external. I think I have a pic on my 1.8M thread
     
  7. knut-ove

    knut-ove Thread Starter

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    Cool :thumbup:

    Will check out your tread and look for the pic of it, is it working well for you?
    Will pick you`r brains on this one of it`s ok by you? :1:
     
  8. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Knut, why run a DSB and a Zeo reactor.... the two dont reallllly work well together from what i have read .... assuming thaat is that you are going for the LNS system
     
  9. knut-ove

    knut-ove Thread Starter

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    I bought the reactor on impulse, and I wont use it for now. So I`l go with the dsb until I get more experience.
     
  10. Difficult marine

    Difficult marine

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    hi knot ove
    i also want change my sump,but i don't understand how the 100mm pipe work. i saw the picture 100mm pipe is hang in the air...how does this work....explain please
     
  11. mnd123

    mnd123

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    sure
     
  12. knut-ove

    knut-ove Thread Starter

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    Will try. Got the idea from reef maniac, thanks reef.

    You have to make some sort of suspension for the 100mm pipe. I was thinking to get some plastic plate of some sort and glue it to the top of the pipes so its suspended.
    Must also make some sort of spacing between the pipe and the glasses on either sides, so it does not move. The general idea is that the air coming from the durso will be trapped in the larger pipe and is taken out of the water that way instead of going throw the sump. You still need the baffles to get out all the air.

    Does this make any sense???
     
  13. Difficult marine

    Difficult marine

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    thanks you
     
  14. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    I built a sump 2 weekends back. 1380 by 630, for under a 1.5*.75*.75 tank
    And my DSB is a lot bigger than yours. 840mm compared to your 488.

    Are you using 12mm glass? 10mm will be ok.

    Basically the depth is the same as yours. But you are wasting a lot of space with your return chamber as well as the first entry chamber. Your skimmer surely is not 600mm wide. Why not have the inlet next to the skimmer. Back part of first chamber. Front part you can have your skimmer. And if you really want the baffles in between. Then water flows to the right, to the DSB.

    PlayStation 3 - Page 2 - Marine Aquariums of South Africa
     
  15. knut-ove

    knut-ove Thread Starter

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    This is just the kind of input i was hoping for, thanks. The first drawing i made was just to get going on the planing. I see that i must make the dsb chamber bigger.
    Initial i was thinking about 6mm but i guess I`l have to run it on the glass calculator:whistling:.. 10mm you say?:biggrin:

    Noope, made the drawing at work today (Don`t tell my boss:whistling:)
    Footprint of TS4 skimmer is 400x400
    Great idea, will try to work on the drawings tomorrow.

    How much space do i need to calculate between the glass for the silicone?
     
  16. crispin

    crispin

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    knut ive just measured my sump and its just on 1m10 long, but i should be able to fit a sumop 1m60 long under my tank fairly easily. i used to ahve a chiller and a auto top up chamber. You definatley need an auto top up chamber next to the sump of around 100l, so that will feed back into the return chamber of the sump.


    PS ive just costed the plumbing (bare basics) on the scubber i want to build and its a nasty Kr 941 per scrubber :(
     
  17. knut-ove

    knut-ove Thread Starter

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    Do you suggest i build the top up chamber into the sump (integrate it)?
    Have to work out space for reactor chamber also...

    The costs of thing in this country is just silly :(
     
  18. crispin

    crispin

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    yeah you def want space in your cabinet for an RO resivoire and any reactors you have...plan it in :)
     
  19. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Mine is 8mm. And sump is 360mm high. Remember, if your chambers are designed correctly, then they are also "Euro" bracing. Just vertical and not horizontal. That is why my DSB chamber is split in two.

    OK I will not.


    Make both sides, and bottom and glass used to make chambers all exactly the same width. Front and Back should be the lenght of the bottom glass plus the glass thickness of both left and right.
    And you make the sump NOT with the sides resting on the bottom, but with the sides around the bottom glass.
    If it is unclear, let me know.

    Yes RO chamber, depending on the location of your tank. If you can have it remotely, it should be better. But in Norway you have to be carefull that the RO chamber and line to tank do not freeze.

    PM sent.

    Return chamber, make it as wide as your return pump is wide, plus 20mm to get it in and out. You will find on your 600mm wide sump that you got plenty of space left in return chamber. So that wasted space, either use that for extra reactors, or do the same as I suggested on the inlet. Make the back part the return chamber, and the front half to 2/3s a RO chamber. You will access the RO chamber a lot more than the return pump. But just ensure you can get to the pump. Just make the RO chamber inner sides the same height as the sump sides, less 10mm - so if you mess - and you will - when you top up, the few splashes will go into the sump instead of on the floor.
     
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  20. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    To put words into a picture

    [​IMG]

    I spent less than 5 minutes drawing this. So I did not take any glass thickness into account. Inlet chamber side to DSB is higher. So water flow to skimmer. You can put a baffle between inlet and skimmer and between dsb and return pump.
    But I will not.
    If bubbles from your skimmer reach your return, over 840mm of water, then your flow is to much. Or the water falling into return makes bubbles, adjust your top up unit so that that chamber is fuller.
     
  21. knut-ove

    knut-ove Thread Starter

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    RiaanP. Thank you so much for great answers. This gives me a lot to work with:thumbup:
    Will redraw and post later.
     
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