Suggestions for a QT

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by Meneer, 20 Apr 2011.

  1. Meneer

    Meneer

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    What would be the minimum size for a QT?

    Surely we want the QT to me fairly maintenance free. Can water changes be done from from the DT?

    I see some have a 2 foot DT. Won't that freak out a Tang if you leave him in there for 8 weeks?

    I was thinking of having a QT in my other Living room, so it will also double as a dt there, with maybe 1 or 2 permanent inhabitants to keep the system going?

    Can I put in a piece of LR instead of just nothing? I see someone suggested bare bottom. Why?

    I was think of putting a small sump in the in this to house a small skimmer, return pump and heater, and some bio material. Sump will also have a small cascade filter with Purigen as main biological filtration.

    In the tank, circulation will be provided by a 600l/h Hydea old style powerhead with sponge filter underneath.

    This is what I wanted to use.

    This tank should be around 40-50 litres with sump.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Any size from 40L can do. Even smaller on small fish.

    Water changes from display is OK, just do not do too big water changes too fast.

    Normal Tangs you buy, are small, less than 10cm, so it is OK for 6 weeks in small tank

    No long serving inhabitants.

    No live rock, just a place for whitespot cyst to stick to and hatch. Barebottom is the way to go.

    Tank MUST have an overflow of sorts. Either to sump area or over a divider. Else gunk accumulates on the surface.

    No DSB, no filtration media that can be breeding area for whitespot.

    No sharing of ANY tools, like nets between systems.
     
    Last edited: 20 Apr 2011
  4. maxisoft

    maxisoft

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    Wow... Nice Nano you could have there... Otherwise IMO a bit of overkill for a QT...:)
     
  5. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    what would you recomend as filtertion?
     
  6. Meneer

    Meneer Thread Starter

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    Thanx - I just don't understand how a fish can survive for 8 weeks and just produce ammonia with nothing to break it down?
     
  7. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    10% daily water changes.
    Depending on method you use.

    Basically I do 50% every third day for 4 times. No filtration, only heater and small pump pointing upwards to create flow. first 2 days, just enough to eat, only flakes. Third day, a few hours before water change, a big meal, frozen food, anything.

    There after another tank, more setup like mini system with filtration, with 20% per week. That is my current shrimp tank.

    Anyway standard 90L Daro tank. 2 dividers, Looks like a sump. Return chamber, with return pump (duh) to first chamber, return filled up with bio-balls for extra filtration. First chamber with Caulerpa. Well, it works, as my Caulerpa out-competed itself and crashed, restarting now.
     
  8. Meneer

    Meneer Thread Starter

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    Ok - so basically 2 OT's?
     
  9. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Actually 3 "tanks",
    I used the bucket method, basically move the fish after 3 days to another bucket, with own heater and pump and PVC pipes. So I got 2 buckets, actually 42L plastic containers. After 3rd or 4th move, I move the fish to more permanent QT environment.
     
  10. Meneer

    Meneer Thread Starter

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    Ok - so after buying a new fish you put it in a bucket, then in another bucket, then in another tank without bio filtration?

    Sorry - I'm probably not understanding this correctly.
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    The buckets got no filtration. Only for 3 days in bucket, then moved to next for 3 or 4 times (depending).

    Then the next tank, got bioballs and caulerpa. Cheato can work as well. This tank is setup like a sump. With dividers etc.
     
  12. Meneer

    Meneer Thread Starter

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    Will Purigen work as main biological filtration for this size tank?
     
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