strartup questions

Discussion in 'New Members' started by dougstar, 20 Apr 2015.

  1. dougstar

    dougstar

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    hello masa
    my name is doug and i have been playing with water for the past +-5 years. it has all been fresh water and i have become a bit more curious about adding salt to my current setup. ill be honest i have been a bit scared would hate to get in over my head. so this is what i have to play with granted i know im very far far away from adding salt and sitting back to enjoying. so this is what i have [​IMG] 200cm L x 60cm W x 75cm H under the hood i have a 150cm L x 50cm W x 55cm H
    sump it has 5000l reefoctopus pump. the only other thing i have for a reef tank is a vortech mp40qd. i know would need new lighting skimmer. so heres my questions what will it cost to run per month a soft coral and fish setup just the basic setup to start and go from there?
    [​IMG]
    regards doug
     
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  3. dougstar

    dougstar Thread Starter

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    or sell the lot and start fresh?
     
  4. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    hi,

    you can convert that tank easily
    you would need to add a protein skimmer, you can keep your CO2 etc for later.
    if you start with fish only you wont need to upgrade lights straight away
     
  5. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    that tank will work.
    Skimmer, get the best you can afford.

    Lights, can start with a secondhand T5 unit, for soft corals and fish. Can later move over to LEDS if you want to.

    You also need some powerheads in the tank for more water movement. Cheap SunSun pumps to expensive Vortech pumps. Your decision again as each pump do have its place in the market.

    Sump needs slight modification so that the last divider is also a flow over. And chuck the ceramic rings.
    Middle chamber is big enough for a DSB.
     
  6. dougstar

    dougstar Thread Starter

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    when i had the tank built i had in the back of my mind that it could become a salty. was thinking of buy some of the gear skimmer new lighting and a few other thing a may need, not sure what they are just now but thats why im here asking question
     
  7. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    look at the links in the my sig
     
  8. dougstar

    dougstar Thread Starter

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    i just bought a vortech mp 40 qd so i think that is decent enough
    my sump the last divider water goes under
    want leds! what are the running cost say i have all the gear, what are the monthly cost chem salt ect?
    @ dallasg have read you "what DO i really need"
     
    Last edited: 20 Apr 2015
  9. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    there is no answer to the question, all depends on what you keep, how you keep it, what systems etc..
     
  10. Ricky W

    Ricky W

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    Softy tank using natural water not that much guesstimate would be a couple hundred for electricity. If u have to make your water and want to start going into test kits and additives it can escalate quite quick. Take your lights for example on that tank probably 8 t5 tubes replacing 1 a month so u don't have to do it all at once that's R350 alone never mind the electricity.
     
  11. dougstar

    dougstar Thread Starter

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    Can't do t5 led is the only way to go. With the +- 50 000 hour life span and the savings on power it a no brainer
     
  12. dougstar

    dougstar Thread Starter

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    what size skimmer should i get? my tank volume is round 1000+- should it be double the volume as a minimum ? what is the rule of thumb
     
  13. Dexter

    Dexter

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    Twice the size is good begin. Always better to go a little bigger than twice the volume of tank
     
  14. dougstar

    dougstar Thread Starter

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    Why should I change my sump? Why should the last divider be a flow over? So can understand your reasoning
     
  15. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    If you do go the DSB route, you want the last divider to be a flow over. Alternative, you can add another glass panel 2cm in front of it to make a baffle, but that is really not needed and stealing a bit of the space of the DSB.

    Also with freshwater, you add water for top up when you need it, and it does not matter how much you add at that moment. With marines, you want the salinity level to stay as stable as possible. Using a ATU (auto top up unit) is one of the first things you must automate, after putting your lights on timers. That will help to keep your system more stable a lot. On your sump, as is, your water level will fluctuate over both the big central chamber and return chamber. Even a 1cm difference between the top and bottom ATU sensors, will result in a lot of water that will be added. A smaller chamber with same difference will be 1 or maybe maximum 2L RO water added during the top up. A lot better.

    Regardless if you go DSB or not, Rather have the ATU sensors in a smaller affected area.
     
  16. dougstar

    dougstar Thread Starter

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    Okay riaan that makes sense. so smaller change with less fluctuations result more stable great. Well I have a seven stager ro unit already one less thing to get :)
     
  17. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Yebo.

    On average, our systems looses about 10% water due to evaporation per week. Things like fans and scrubbers do change that figure, but you can go on a 10% as a guideline. Your system I estimate is about 1000L. So 100L per week, or 5 drums. Basically every day you will have to add a drum. Not only on the salinity levels but this is one part that will become a major schlep very quickly. Good thing you got a RO unit, less trips to the LFS.

    If you move the sump up to the right side end. You will be able to add a RO container on the left, next to the return chamber. Make the RO tank as big and high as possible, while still being able to refill it. Need to get to 100L capacity.
     
  18. dougstar

    dougstar Thread Starter

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    Hmm the right side I have all my power ups co2 ect so can't move that....my kids will interfere with gear. I'll have to mesured up and what I have is space for 85L/90L. If you calculate the inner dimensions
    197.6L x 60W X 70H give's me 830L + the sum 148.6L X 48.6W X 50H gives me 30th
    Total 1240L. So Di I need 120L to chamber? Or is 120L still okay
     
  19. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Doubt your sump water level is 50cm. So your total system volume would be slightly less.

    Test for yourself how much evaporation you have currently on the freshwater system over a couple of days. And then calculate how much you would need for a week.

    I like the RO drum to be able to hold more than I need in a week. So I know, that during the weekend I have to fill the drum.

    If you cannot get a big enough container in there, you got 2 options. Either a remote RO drum with long enough flexible hose to fill the sump. Or you need to fill the drum Wednesday night as well.
     
  20. dougstar

    dougstar Thread Starter

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    hello riaan
    my sump is 55 high and when i had made i had the divider only 50cm high the remaining 5cm was to catch overflow. a remote drum i think will be the answer in my case
    my measurements were with out the 12mm glass and only as high as the waterline
     
    Last edited: 23 Apr 2015
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