Silicone Thickness

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by mandarin, 14 Dec 2009.

  1. mandarin

    mandarin

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    Could someone please help, i'm building a new tank 1510mm (l) x 770mm (w) x 600mm (h) x 10mm thick, how thick should the joints be to be safe.
     
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  3. neo

    neo

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    I have a 1000mm (l) x 650mm (w) x 600mm (h) of 10mm thick custom build and the corner beads was made with a proseal tool using the 10mm side of the tool, i.e. the bead forms a triangle with the glass and the long side of the triangle is 10mm long.
     
  4. Sentari

    Sentari

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    mandrin when building just remember to cater for bend and pressure. make sure you allow 2mm placing between the joints of the glass.

    Ive seen tanks burst and become canon's when the glass is touching and it expands and contracts.... very interesting canon can be made like this :)
     
  5. Goby

    Goby

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    will a 5mm placing between the glass be ok?
     
  6. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    there are a couple of concepts to understand here .....

    first off the strength of silicone is essentiallly the same whether it it 1mm thick or 10mm..... it is the flexability or elasticity that changes in the sense that the thicker the silicone the more flex or movement it can absorbe before returing the pressure to the glass and resulting in a burst tank.

    If you have pushed the two paines of glass together and squeezed out most of the silicone, the slightest bit of movement in the glass will transer the movement into a crack.

    Of VITAL importance is you preperation ...... ensure that the surfaces you intend siliconing are properly cleaned and are dust free (remember your hands have oils on them which also need to be removed, so after cleaning the glass dont touch it and silicone as soon as possible after cleaning)

    IMHO you should go for about a 1.5mm gap between pains
     
  7. mandarin

    mandarin Thread Starter

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    Thank's for the info, just one last question how long must i wait for the silicone to set and when can i do a water test.
     
  8. Sentari

    Sentari

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    1 full day should be fine.

    Just remember its easier to do it in steps. make your L piece on your base then glue it and wait. Then to the other 2 panes. then to the top. Make sure you allow this to dry inbetween doing them.

    Thats the way i would do it. Any other suggestions?
     
  9. Tim S

    Tim S

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    Hi Mandarin,
    A few pointers when building the tank from my own experience when I built my tank of same size.
    The 10mm glass is heavy so the bead between the base and the sides will be squeezed out if you do not pack a spacer between them. Something you can pull out after the bead has set. Once you have applied the edge bead and put the 2 panes togehter, you will need to do so with the 3rd pane so that you have a corner which you can temporarily hold together (stable) with a piece of duct tape or similar. Once at this stage you will need to gun the silicone into the corners with enough to scrape the excess off to required shape and smoothen off. If you don't have a special tool, a piece of perspex with the corner cut off at 45 degrees to the required size also works. Just remember that you need to gun the fillet into the corner without creating any air pockets between this silicone and the joint silicone which has now squeezed out between the panes. To avaiod this you need someone watching the gunning in of the silicone from the outside as well to warn you if air is caught up in the fillet. Have lots of rag to wipe off excess silicone. Also you will need about 5 to 6 tubes for a tank this size.

    All the luck to you with this one...

    Tim
     
  10. mandarin

    mandarin Thread Starter

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    But won't it be better if the pains are on the outside of the base instead of on the top with a 3-5mm gap between. Remember the base i'm going to use will be 20mm thick plus brazing, i't sounds that i'm overdoing but i dont want to take chances.
    The stand will be build with bricks with a solid 100mm concrete and steel reinforcing.
    Any comments please.
     
  11. Tim S

    Tim S

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    You can do either of the two methods. Larger tanks tend to have the sides run past the edges of the base. The 20mm thick base also good. The conteret slab is a bit of concern with regards to the accuracy you will acheive. You might have to put a final layer of self leveling screed ontop to make sure you have no bumps whatsoever. This is impossible with concrete alone. You will also need to put a 25 -30mm pollystyrene layer under the base as well.
     
  12. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    as mentined here this will be suffiecnt.
     
  13. mandarin

    mandarin Thread Starter

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    I'll go for this one, thanks for your time and input every one, case close let the build begin.:yeahdude:
     
  14. Bossi

    Bossi

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    Of VITAL importance is you preperation ...... ensure that the surfaces you intend siliconing are properly cleaned and are dust free (remember your hands have oils on them which also need to be removed, so after cleaning the glass dont touch it and silicone as soon as possible after cleaning)

    What would be the best cleaning liquid or substance to use to clean the glass before applying the silicone?

    I want to stip a tank aswell to rebuild it, so thanks everyone for the replies to this thread and mandarin for starting this thread.


     
  15. Bossi

    Bossi

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    One more question on building a tank? How would one go about getting the right joint thickness eg. 1.5mm? Do you use spacers? And how would the spacers look or be made of?
     
  16. davidfr7

    davidfr7

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    I used 3 mm thick glass spacers 2cm wide and 4 cm long . Silicone drys 1mm every 24 hrs.
     
  17. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    prep is always important,remove excess silicone with a blade (i find carpet blades best) once this is done use methylated spitits and a clean rag to wipe all edges prior to gluing, allow about 10 seconds to dry prior to applying glue.. its not always possible but try not to touch the cleaned surfaces as as mentioned your hands will contaminate the surfaces with oily deposits, ont do what i did when i first started building (10+ years ago) and use turps your tank Will simply just pull apart:razz:
     
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