setup of 5 ft tank and extra's... am I going in the right direction?

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by kakarot, 19 Oct 2010.

  1. kakarot

    kakarot

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    Hi there guys,

    I've been snooping around on this forum for a while now and finally decided to become a registered member. Been through a few thread's to see how other member's tanks are setup to get idea's for my tank.

    Finally I've decided on a 1500 x 700 x 700 DT which I've designed myself with a skinny coast to coast overflow. The back panel will most likely be black (should this be painted or will black marine silicone be fine?)

    [​IMG]

    Has you can see from the drawing I have to boxes at the bottom of the overflow. The idea being the one on the left for the sump, the one on the right for a Closed Loop system.

    The pieces on the back corners of the tank will serve as the return from the sump (left side) and the other for the CLS (left).

    Now by my estimated calculations the DT volume will be roughly 700l. What size sump will I need to support this and more importantly what skimmer? I was initially thinking of a TS2 (but I believe that's rated for around a total volume of 700l?).

    Regarding flow within the tank, which or what pumps would you guys recommend for the CLS and for the flow within the tank. Keep in mind, the idea behind my design was to keep clutter within the tank to a minimal (pumps for flow)...

    Next up is Live rock, I've seen Kenyan, Indo and Malaysian. I personally think the Indo would be the best to go with but again it's extremely pricey. So I was think of something for the base? Sandstone or bio rock (got no idea on prices for these) and also some LR in the sump. So would a total of about 80 kg of LR be fine?

    I'm most likely going to have to islands of LR in the tank one bigger than the other to server as the "reef". The one thing I'm clueless about and ashamed to say it - is the lighting. I do ofcourse want to keep fish and corals, but what lighting would I need? and what heaters will I need people.
     
    Last edited: 19 Oct 2010
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  3. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    welcome , some good sketchup skills you have there..
     
  4. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    hailides are an excellent lighing system but T5 are a close second when comparing some of the best tanks in the world, given your suggested height of .700 i would suggest a hailide be your ultimate goal. T5 in the interim will serve you well but as your experience grows and your persuit for more difficult coral hailides will be the answer.
    ..
     
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  5. durleo

    durleo

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    - You can use a mix of T5 and 250w Metal Halide. ( check the for sale forum) Maybe 2 x 250w Halide 14 000k - 2 x 54w T5 Actinics and 2 x 54w T5 White 12000k -
    I dunno where you stay and if it gets really cold but i run a 300w Jager Heater in durban on a 1000lt system but if you get extreme cold then you probably gonna need 2 x 300w Heaters

    I hope this helps you out and a few other reefers will add to it!:thumbup:welcometomasa
     
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  6. Tremayn

    Tremayn

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    welcome :)
     
  7. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    apologies i meant to say a combo of hailides and T5, but i still believe if planned properly 150w hailides can be used if coral placement is planned peoperly, rg mushrooms zoa's and softies on the bottom and more delicate lps and ultimatley sps from the mid tank mark upwards.. 250w need not always be the solution but you would need to think smart with 150w..
     
  8. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    No need to run your closed loop intake via your overflow.

    Actually I do not think that it will be a good idea. Because if you want to stop the sump flowing for whatever maintanance reason. Then you have to switch all the flow in display off. Rather have the CLS intake totally seperate from the overflow. And it should be below the water level as not to suck in air and causing masive amounts of bubbles.

    The little boxes at the bottom, will be easier to cut the back pane correctly if you use a box at the bottom with the same width as the overflow pane. No need then to cut out 2 notches into the back pane, and it is on that notch corner where you will have a weakpoint on the glass and will cause it to crack. Aslo look at adding glass strips behind the overflow pane as support.

    For your return, look at adding another part to the overflow chamber, but where the water will push up. Check bottom of this one
    Evolution of slimline Overflow - Marine Aquariums of South Africa
    Also Neil H got a thread on different overflow designs.

    Back to the drawing board / SketchUp :)
     
  9. crispin

    crispin

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    thats a nicely deseigned tank, well done. take the advice thats been given already, i think that les and durleo have covered almost everything and will allow you to make a better choice later on.

    the only aspect i will add on is the LR. I agree with les that the kenyan is slightly denser than figian, tongan or malasian but i frankly like that in that it might (jury is still out in my mind on this) help in converting the nitrates. However the cost of kenyans is far lower and one can get larger pieces, often flatter too (depending on the collector in kenya the LFS uses) which is great for aquascaping. Ive used all kenyan, malaysian and tongan recently and frankly found kenyan to give me by far the best vallue for money for what i want to do.

    also dont skimp on your LR, niot in amount or quality. It forms the 'lungs' of your system and cutting corners here by using inferior LR will just give you headaches with algae down the line. Base rock can work, but honestly with a tank of 700 odd l i would just go with LR and about 70-80kg of the stuff. Put it this way i have 140kg LR in an 800l Display (1100l total vollume) and although thats too much (reef is too big) ive left it simply as i have awesum filtration in that tank
     
  10. kakarot

    kakarot Thread Starter

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    Firstly thank you for the welcome guys!!:thumbup:

    leslie hempel and durleo - thank you for the detail replies gents. I will take into consideration everything you'l have mentioned and will update my spec and repost to see if it's in order.

    Just a question on the lighting side thou. Has anyone ever gone the LED route yet? I did abit of reading on them yesterday, they are more expensive, but they last longer, generate much less heat than T5's or Halides and also seem to create a much better shimmer effect.


    Regarding the overflow with intake for the sump and CLS - would it still be an issue if they both were connected via bulkhead and ball valves?

    Cause my thinking was if I do need to to maintenance on the sump - just close the ball valve for it and the water still circulates via the overflow through the CLS?!? But I also get your point about having the intake below the water level as to not get water bubbles into the DT. I will redo the drawing and submit it later on today for opinions again! thanks for the advice...

    Thank you mate...

    Interesting - the pieces of Kenyan rock that I've always seen seem to be more round and boulder in shape - not ideal for creating reefs? I was thinking or considering maybe using the Kenyan LR for the base and the give a shape to my reef and then using pieces of Indo or Malaysian to make it look better?

    Also is there any problem in breaking the rock up into pieces for aqua-scapping?

    Given the suggested sump size of L1200x W600x 650H - I'm sure I could add a nice amount of Kenyan LR in DSB section as well?

    anyways back to the drawing board for me now haha - thanks again for the advice guys. I'm itching to start atleast getting the equipment going. :)
     
  11. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    im impressed you can multiquote i still cant get that right :)

    as for LED, not many people are using it here on a full blown reef to my knwledge, its more popular for nano use at this stage but i was trolling the net for options earlier and i see a new one posted on the aqua medic website so who knows maybe soon..


    i think .700 in depth is a little too deep to try it on though
     
  12. kakarot

    kakarot Thread Starter

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    Ok here goes, the DT again after the advice I got.

    [​IMG]

    Up next the is the return from the sump. Now I had a look at RiaanP's return idea and decided to incorporate it into my return. The return line will run via pvc piping so as to keep the pressure up.

    Also I placed my slightly below the overflow height so I don't get the gurgling sound on the water surface.

    [​IMG]

    Now for CLS intake. Now I'm not sure if this is the best idea or can someone else suggest something to me? I was thinking about small holes drillsed into the glass to allow water to pass through it into compartment.

    [​IMG]

    Would appreciate any feedback guys! thanks a million :)
     
  13. kakarot

    kakarot Thread Starter

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    haha - well easier I found to do that was open the thread you browsing up twice. The one screen you do your post and you use the other screen to click on quote, copy the post and then past it in the other screen and you can go back on the 2nd screen to other posts and quote, etc ;)

    hope that helps mate!

    Well I was snooping around on youtube and to be honest the tanks dont lool to big.

    http://www.ledaquarium.com/

    I haven't yet had a chance to browse specs of LED's on this website. So thought if others also wanted to look at it.
     
  14. kakarot

    kakarot Thread Starter

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    Question on the lighting:

    Has anyone ever bought lighting from like a light manufacture and used that? I found a place in Midrand and got following prices:

    Fitting + Balast - R 560 excl. VAT
    Bulb 250w - R 140 excl. VAT

    I've got no idea where to go get pricing etc for these any advice would be appreciated. Also is there any specific metal halide type or bulb I need to ask for ?
     
  15. crispin

    crispin

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    have a look at jumboswarts thread i think he was using LED bulb imported, but from what ive read they battle with the water penertration, for your tank id personally go with the tried and tested hallide and t5 combo's
     
  16. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    :lol::lol::lol:I CRACKED MYSELF...
    Leslie, after over 5000 posts, this is the best comment for the day. Now I can go to bed and still giggle while getting in. Just press MQ on all the comments you want to answer, then press Quote.
     
  17. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Getting there.
    But
    your closed loop intake is too small area. Any thing big passing that place will be sucked flat against the pane. Make this section bigger. And ensure that the small holes total area are at least double the size of the biggest oinmate you will ever housed.
    Also, with such a small intake, I think your CLS pump will be running starved of water. I think the term is "cavitating"
     
  18. kakarot

    kakarot Thread Starter

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    hmm oki I think I understand what you saying... I'm busy redoing that bit now and will upload it soon. I've also begun designing the lighting part. I plan on housing the 4 x T5's in it and 2 Metal Halides.

    Also what height should this unit be placed about the tank?
     
  19. kakarot

    kakarot Thread Starter

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    Ok here's the revised tank design once again... does this area look ok now?

    Tank
    [​IMG]


    Overflow for the CLS
    [​IMG]


    This is the rough design I've got for the lighting unit
    [​IMG]

    As you can see the T5's run the length of the unit on the sides of the halides.
     
  20. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    I think you might want to move the MH lights just a little bit further apart from each other to give you a better spread of light.
     
  21. kakarot

    kakarot Thread Starter

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    Good point I didn't think about that at all... Just 1 more question... 400 W MH would be an over kill right guy?
     
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