Setting up two JoJo Drums

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by mytank, 26 Mar 2012.

  1. mytank

    mytank

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    Hi all,

    Looking for some advise here. I want to setup two 250l JoJo drums, one with RO water and one with fresh mixed salt water.

    My question is around how to do this as automated as possible. I have the following:

    1. Solenoid valve
    2. Profilux 3ex with a power bar
    3. Plenty of Haliea return pumps (the big ones) think its 6550.

    I have seen some of the newer builds on the forum with these JoJo drums and I am sick and tired of carrying 25l drums around and messing my patio up :)

    So my question would be, how would I set it up in such a way that:

    1. RO JoJo drum is always full from my RO unit (Solenoid valve?)
    2. The Salt water JoJo Drum always has a mix of fresh salt water for a water change.
    2.1 Do you first use up all 250l of Salt Water that was in the drum then retop up or do you constantly top up with RO (surely that dilutes and lowers the salinity).
    3. How would I use the 250l JoJo to auto top up my little (50l) auto topup chamber in my sump?
    3.1 Would you advise in putting a float switch in the chamber to prevent over flows?

    I would be interested and appreciate the help and ideas.
     
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  3. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer

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    I would not link the RO JoJo with your tank via the RO chamber. If something goes wrong you will firstly dump all that 300L RO into the tank will most likely kill all coral and dump your fish into hypo salinity, and secondly you will flood the house which is worse than messing the patio up.

    I would also not have the RO top up the JoJo every time you use RO. Reason for this is that the water inside the Ro filters will build up some hectic TDS reading and then dump this into the JoJo drum. I would use the water in the JoJo and when its almost empty (maybe 50L left) flush the RO Unit first and then let it fill up the JoJo.

    Same with the salt mix drum. Use most of it and then make a fresh batch.

    Trust me, the odd schlep of carrying 2 drums of water to the tank to fill up the RO chamber a week is a lot easier than restocking the tank and mopping up the house.
     
  4. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

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    Good points and thank you @mariusmeyer, what if I use a tunze level in both the sump and the jojo drum with a solenoid and powerbar cut-off.

    So what it does is closes the solenoid (the one I have is fail on OFF) and also turns off the power to all the pumps in the JoJo drum?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  5. cclarity

    cclarity

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    I used to have 210l of salt mix always 'ready' for water change until I could not lower my nitrate levels in my tank with the 'new' salt mix. I found out that the water in my drum was also cycling. I don't recommend that you keep so much 'fresh' salt water for this reason unless you need to do a 300l water change.
    I also have 210l of RO water as my top up, I know that I run the risk of diluting my tank if something goes wrong so I will keep my eye on this thread to see what advice you get for your top up..
     
  6. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    I keep 120l salt mix ready for Emergencys, with no problems! you just need to put in a power head so that the water dont stand still...
     
  7. cclarity

    cclarity

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    Will that stop the water cycling?
     
  8. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    It will stop the water from rotting/bad smell, salt mix cant stand still it needs constant movement... dont know how the new salt mix start to cycle... do you add bacteria to your new salt mix or what? or do you keep live rock in your salt mix drum?:whistling:
     
  9. cclarity

    cclarity

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    No, the only thing I can think of is that maybe there was transfer from the jug or my be the new mix was to hot in the sun.
    Sorry Mytank for high jacking your thread.
     
  10. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

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    No this is very good info, I have never had an issue with salt water going bad @RiaanP @Nemos Janitor I thought salt water wouldn't go wrong?

    Sent from my SGH-i917 Microsoft Windows Phone 7 (Mango) using Board Express
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  11. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    It can produce a very nasty smell:eek: the kinda smell you dont wanna smell... its worst than :biggrin:
     
  12. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    Ok to do the automatic water change thing properly you need three drums. One larger one to make the RO water in and two smaller containers the same size for the water change.

    One of the smaller drums is connected to circulate in the "background" of your system. This gives you extra water volume for the entire system.

    The other smaller one is used to do your salt mixing.

    To do a water change you switch off the pump circulating the water from the DT to the background container. Dump the water in the container and pump the water across from the mixing drum to the drained drum. Switch the circulating pump back on.

    Tank remains running at all times. No worry of exposing corals and stressing fish.

    With a few electrical valves and probes you can get very fancy with the profilux.
     
  13. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    @Nemos Janitor; thanx for that info, will you feed the drum, till it overflow back to the sump? Or how will you do it?:whistling:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  14. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    I will do a drawing with options as there are many.

    Time to test my sketch up skills.
     
  15. mytank

    mytank Thread Starter

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    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  16. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    NSW can and will cycle if kept in a tank at the wrong temperature and without movement.

    Salt mixed water should not. Unless drum is contaminated. But you do need a little powerhead or pump in there just to keep things moving. Will also help with excess settlement.

    Same if you want to keep old water as emergency backup for a week. Then you need it to be the same temperature and have powerhead to move things around due to the bacteria load in there. I keep mine and had to use it once. Not ideal, but better than nothing on a Sunday afternoon.

    Temperature is not that crucial. A 10% water change with water that is 5 degrees Celsius different will have a 0.5 degree impact. So to have the temperature exact does not matter that much.
     
  17. Express Reef

    Express Reef

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    Thanx RiaanP did not know that... mine is fine got one 300w jaggar heater and 2 x pumps to keep my water moving, thats why I never have any problms:p
     
  18. LCornelius

    LCornelius Moderator

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    Thanks Nemo, appreciate it!
     
  19. erratiC

    erratiC

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    @Nemos Janitor, thanks for explaining that - always wondered how it was done.

    Just one question though - is it necessary to have the 3 drums? Couldn't a person make due with a just a large drum for the RO and the smaller one connected to your sump?
    So once the smaller one is cut off from your sump, using 2 ball valves on the piping into and out of the drum, is drained then you could mix the pumped RO and salt in that smaller drum.

    So I'm assuming having the 3rd drum there is to prevent any failure on the solenoid from the larger drum?

    Again, thanks.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  20. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    The extra drum/drums gives you extra flexibility if you do not want to do a full water change for what ever reason.

    The main reason for the background drums is to add extra water volume to the system.

    Most large systems work with a 50% plus water volume running behind the DT.
     
  21. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    [​IMG]
     
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