I read about that. So far the Netherlands have kept it in check. So they will still keep the ban on the crayfish but allow the other shrimp to enter the country legally soon?
Seahorse tank
- Thread starter WynandvL
- Start date
I read about that. So far the Netherlands have kept it in check. So they will still keep the ban on the crayfish but allow the other shrimp to enter the country legally soon?
Do you feel the WC H. zostera will make a good return on your investment? You are looking at a 9 week deworming process and you still don't know if they are past their breeding age.
Real pity that you lost the female, sadly this as you know is the problematic side of Sea-Horse keeping but glad to hear that you manage to get captive sea-horses. As per Steve's request - what species did you get and then from BRAZIL. Do you still have access to your supplier because if worthwhile we can all add to the order and possibly allow him the opportunity of bringing in a few more.
I think we are all trying to get a diversity of Sea-horse species going in South Africa and you might just have a species not easily available (not that any seahorse seems to be easily available).
Have you joined the Seahorse forum, varied conflicting opinions on that group (american based) regarding sea-horses and refugiums some swearing by them and others insisting that they don't work.
Either way welcome, nice to have you on-board and looking forward to sharing future seahorse info. Seems that we are finally building a stronger Sea-Horse support base
The idea of a refugiums doesn't work or housing the seahorses in the refugiums doesn't work?
Ask me that question again in a few months time
WC dwarfs has a size restriction, so no young one's will be knocking on the door
Ask me that question again in a few months time
WC dwarfs has a size restriction, so no young one's will be knocking on the door
will do.
:wtf: Size restrictions are these people smoking tik or what?
[/QUOTE]How could I forget the GOLDEN CHILD, so glad she kept her unique appearance. What would be interesting is if her genetic make up will see a entire fry of Golden Children or if she was just "different".
Lesson to be learned - never judge a seahorse by its colour -[/QUOTE]
My golden child is being moved.........to the boy's dorm!
Lesson to be learned - never judge a seahorse by its colour -
[/QUOTE]My golden child is being moved.........to the boy's dorm!
How could I forget the GOLDEN CHILD, so glad she kept her unique appearance. What would be interesting is if her genetic make up will see a entire fry of Golden Children or if she was just "different".
Lesson to be learned - never judge a seahorse by its colour -[/QUOTE]
My golden child is being moved.........to the boy's dorm![/QUOTE]
That's so funny - HE is determined to dish out surprised when ever he/she/it can. In a months time He might be moving back to the girls dorm. I love this little guy
Lesson to be learned - never judge a seahorse by its colour -
[/QUOTE]My golden child is being moved.........to the boy's dorm!
[/QUOTE]That's so funny - HE is determined to dish out surprised when ever he/she/it can. In a months time He might be moving back to the girls dorm. I love this little guy
It is a good way to ensure the survival of the species and one of the biggest reason we get WC Kuda in so many petshops. Amanda Vincent started this as "project Sea-horse" years ago.
Makes it hard for the suppliers and also means our stock will have a shorter live expectancy but it means the species will live for years to come.
There are some pluses - colour variation rather than all white, higher survival rates and of course if my last shipment was any indication, a number of new born on arrival at the airport. (males giving birth during travel)
Please post a pic of the Golden Child....
To mad at him for turning into a boy to take pics. I needed pretty girls, not pretty boys. Search my posts and you will see pics of the golden child.
Hi, do the three treatments of the deworming process stop them from breeding while being treated?
Otherwise would it not possibly be a wise move to keep them separately (obviously), feed them heavily and allow them to breed before going through the deworming process. Obviously any offspring would have to be dewormed in any case as if wild caught, but considering that some males may be carrying already this may offset the inconvenience of them being wild caught.
How many generations would you consider being safe before the offspring from WC could be used before being bred into the CB population?
forcefully tying to change his sex is not going to work, You see that was a sign that you guys should have met up with me when I was in the US & let me stay in my pocket to SA. Now you just need a red female for the lucky guy
@ Timinnl and Anemone
One of the tanks I am thinking of using is a setup with two tanks linked to a plastic sump with a DSB, it is not being used at present and has not had fish in for a few months.
After looking at a few threads (especially the divided tank references and Peppermint shrimp references) on the seahorse.org forum, I am thinking of establishing some peppermint shrimps first, I have not been successful with the local mysids as they are a cold water surf species that lives in the sand, other estuarine mysid species I have tried have also been unsuccessful.
When we have tried to raise Peppermint shrimps, we grew the larvae to 44 days, but they unfortunately did not not settle. One notable thing is we did not have problems with hydroids and I have seen references to them eating hydroids on breeding forums.
We have plenty of old liverock that is dried and can be used.
I could then use one of the tanks with the Peppermint shrimps in it and possibly other shrimps as well as amphipods. The other tank could have Peppermints and Dwarf's in the front with a divider.
I would use FWD macro algae also.
As there are two tanks on the same system it is exactly the same water parameters in both, if hydroids did raise their ugly polyps, I can transfer the seahorses to one side while putting in a butterfly on the other in the unusual event of the peppermints not eating them.
The eating of the hydroids by peppermints may be a size issue, as in hydroids may be too small for adults and the fry need to be several days old?
One of the tanks I am thinking of using is a setup with two tanks linked to a plastic sump with a DSB, it is not being used at present and has not had fish in for a few months.
After looking at a few threads (especially the divided tank references and Peppermint shrimp references) on the seahorse.org forum, I am thinking of establishing some peppermint shrimps first, I have not been successful with the local mysids as they are a cold water surf species that lives in the sand, other estuarine mysid species I have tried have also been unsuccessful.
When we have tried to raise Peppermint shrimps, we grew the larvae to 44 days, but they unfortunately did not not settle. One notable thing is we did not have problems with hydroids and I have seen references to them eating hydroids on breeding forums.
We have plenty of old liverock that is dried and can be used.
I could then use one of the tanks with the Peppermint shrimps in it and possibly other shrimps as well as amphipods. The other tank could have Peppermints and Dwarf's in the front with a divider.
I would use FWD macro algae also.
As there are two tanks on the same system it is exactly the same water parameters in both, if hydroids did raise their ugly polyps, I can transfer the seahorses to one side while putting in a butterfly on the other in the unusual event of the peppermints not eating them.
The eating of the hydroids by peppermints may be a size issue, as in hydroids may be too small for adults and the fry need to be several days old?
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Steven
I was also amazed to see the recommendation of peppermint shrimp to prevent hydroids, would be interested to hear what the general feeling is but I personally only experienced hydroid problems with newly hatched brine and this was 15 years ago when decapsulation and washing of the brine shrimp before feeding was not common practice.
I can see them sharing a large seahorse tank, but dwarfs would concern me ?
Love to hear Timmini's opinion with dwarfs.
Andre
Hi Andre
When we were trying to raise the peppermint shrimp larvae, we used decapsulated bbs, we had no problems with hydroids. I also remember reading about peppermint shrimp larvae eating hydroids from somewhere on the internet with reference to a co-culture growout of peppermints and either scarlet cleaners or blood shrimp and I think also peppermints and fish larvae. Unfortunately I cannot remember where, but likely on MOFIB although it could have been in a paper somewhere. I remember it being an advantage because of the elimination of hydroids, which had been a problem prior to the addition of the peppermint larvae. The shrimp co-cultures did not prove to be completely successful as cannibalism became a problem with the shrimp co-cultures, but not with the shrimp/fish combo if I remember right.
From reading through seahorse.org I think the main problem Timinnl had was the peppermints eating mysids too efficiently.
I also think the main problem he may have had with the divided tank was the seahorses going over the divider, which could be resolved with some design changes and flow control, which would be easy to set up in a two tank off one pump in a sump system. The advantage for me of the divided system is I could easily collect egg laden shrimp (for you also when needed) and put them in the separated section to allow the shrimps larvae to feed the dwarfs.
I am looking for direct links to his referred Calfo seahorse system. Do you have it?
When we were trying to raise the peppermint shrimp larvae, we used decapsulated bbs, we had no problems with hydroids. I also remember reading about peppermint shrimp larvae eating hydroids from somewhere on the internet with reference to a co-culture growout of peppermints and either scarlet cleaners or blood shrimp and I think also peppermints and fish larvae. Unfortunately I cannot remember where, but likely on MOFIB although it could have been in a paper somewhere. I remember it being an advantage because of the elimination of hydroids, which had been a problem prior to the addition of the peppermint larvae. The shrimp co-cultures did not prove to be completely successful as cannibalism became a problem with the shrimp co-cultures, but not with the shrimp/fish combo if I remember right.
From reading through seahorse.org I think the main problem Timinnl had was the peppermints eating mysids too efficiently.
I also think the main problem he may have had with the divided tank was the seahorses going over the divider, which could be resolved with some design changes and flow control, which would be easy to set up in a two tank off one pump in a sump system. The advantage for me of the divided system is I could easily collect egg laden shrimp (for you also when needed) and put them in the separated section to allow the shrimps larvae to feed the dwarfs.
I am looking for direct links to his referred Calfo seahorse system. Do you have it?
C.I.T.E.S. set the size restrictions in which an animal can be sold at.
I have all CB H. zosterae and they display a wide range of colors daily. The key is to varied their diet as much as possible. Do not rely on artemia only. The larger your genepool the better off you are.
The treatment is to remove the worms if they have it. They can still give birth during & after the treatment. All three treatments involve gut loading the artemia. It is best to do it in a QT.
Here is how to do it & what meds you need to use. I copied this from the org. Replace the adult artemia for 48 hour old artemia.
FENBENDAZOLE (granules) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Deworming
Active Ingredient: Fenbendazole
Indication: worms and other internal parasites
Brand Names: Panacur, Safe-Guard
One day each week, feed two meals of adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with Fenbendazole to the Seahorse. Repeat for a total of 3 weeks.
• Purchase Fenbendazole granules available as 1gm packets.
• Thoroughly mix a single 1gm packet (~1/4tsp) into one gallon (~4 liters) of water. Please note that the granules will not completely dissolve.
• This mixture will produce 222mg of Fenbendazole per gallon of water.
• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.
• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the quarantine tank.
• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.
FENBENDAZOLE (liquid) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Deworming
Active Ingredient: 10% Fenbendazole
Indication: worms and other internal parasites
Brand Names: Panacur, Safe-Guard
One day each week, feed two meals of adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with Fenbendazole to the Seahorse. Repeat for a total of 3 weeks.
• Add ~250mg (2ml or ~1/2 tsp) of the Fenbendazole mixture to one gallon (~4 liters) of water and mix thoroughly.
• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.
• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the quarantine tank.
• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.
METRONIDAZOLE Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Deworming
Active Ingredient: Metronidalzole
Indication: flagellates and other internal parasites
Brand Names: Metro+, Metro-Pro, Metronidazole, Metro-MS, Flagyl
One day each week, feed two meals of adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with Metronidazole to the Seahorse. Repeat for a total of 3 weeks.
• If using tablets, crush one tablet into a fine powder. If using powder, dose 1/4tsp.
• Add the Metronidazole to one gallon (~4 liters) of water and mix thoroughly.
• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.
• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the quarantine tank.
• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp.
PRAZIQUANTEL Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Deworming
Active Ingredient: Praziquantel
Indication: worms and other internal parasites
Brand Names: PraziPro, Praz-Tastic, Praziquantel
One day each week, feed two meals of adult brine shrimp gut-loaded with Praziquantel to the Seahorse. Repeat for a total of 3 weeks.
• Add 10ml (~2tsp) of Praziquantel to one gallon (~4 liters) of water and mix thoroughly.
• Place the amount of adult brine shrimp needed for one feeding into the mixture. Leave them in the mixture for at least 2hrs.
• Remove the adult brine shrimp from the mixture and add them to the quarantine tank.
• Observe the Seahorse to be certain it is eating the adult brine shrimp
You can start mixing F2 with CB after they both have been in QT.
Tim
One of the tanks I am thinking of using is a setup with two tanks linked to a plastic sump with a DSB, it is not being used at present and has not had fish in for a few months. Can you take a picture of the tank for me?
After looking at a few threads (especially the divided tank references and Peppermint shrimp references) on the seahorse.org forum, I am thinking of establishing some peppermint shrimps first, I have not been successful with the local mysids as they are a cold water surf species that lives in the sand, other estuarine mysid species I have tried have also been unsuccessful. Peka on the org is doing a divided tank right now. How were you raising the different mysis?
When we have tried to raise Peppermint shrimps, we grew the larvae to 44 days, but they unfortunately did not not settle. One notable thing is we did not have problems with hydroids and I have seen references to them eating hydroids on breeding forums. I have the peppermint shrimps in a breeder trap on the dwarf tanks. Their only purpose is to supply me with larvae for the dwarf to eat.
We have plenty of old liverock that is dried and can be used. Best thing you can use for a dwarf tank.
I could then use one of the tanks with the Peppermint shrimps in it and possibly other shrimps as well as amphipods. The other tank could have Peppermints and Dwarf's in the front with a divider. Amphipods, are you talking about grammaus? The adults grammaus will take down a dwarf fry. It happened to me.
I would use FWD macro algae also.
As there are two tanks on the same system it is exactly the same water parameters in both, if hydroids did raise their ugly polyps, I can transfer the seahorses to one side while putting in a butterfly on the other in the unusual event of the peppermints not eating them.
The eating of the hydroids by peppermints may be a size issue, as in hydroids may be too small for adults and the fry need to be several days old? If you want to make sure, you can always Panacur the shrimps before you put them in the dwarf's tank. http://forum.seahorse.org/index.php?showtopic=37207
After looking at a few threads (especially the divided tank references and Peppermint shrimp references) on the seahorse.org forum, I am thinking of establishing some peppermint shrimps first, I have not been successful with the local mysids as they are a cold water surf species that lives in the sand, other estuarine mysid species I have tried have also been unsuccessful. Peka on the org is doing a divided tank right now. How were you raising the different mysis?
When we have tried to raise Peppermint shrimps, we grew the larvae to 44 days, but they unfortunately did not not settle. One notable thing is we did not have problems with hydroids and I have seen references to them eating hydroids on breeding forums. I have the peppermint shrimps in a breeder trap on the dwarf tanks. Their only purpose is to supply me with larvae for the dwarf to eat.
We have plenty of old liverock that is dried and can be used. Best thing you can use for a dwarf tank.
I could then use one of the tanks with the Peppermint shrimps in it and possibly other shrimps as well as amphipods. The other tank could have Peppermints and Dwarf's in the front with a divider. Amphipods, are you talking about grammaus? The adults grammaus will take down a dwarf fry. It happened to me.
I would use FWD macro algae also.
As there are two tanks on the same system it is exactly the same water parameters in both, if hydroids did raise their ugly polyps, I can transfer the seahorses to one side while putting in a butterfly on the other in the unusual event of the peppermints not eating them.
The eating of the hydroids by peppermints may be a size issue, as in hydroids may be too small for adults and the fry need to be several days old? If you want to make sure, you can always Panacur the shrimps before you put them in the dwarf's tank. http://forum.seahorse.org/index.php?showtopic=37207