Sand

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by PieterJNR, 7 Apr 2012.

  1. PieterJNR

    PieterJNR

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    Good day i would just like to know if someone can may be tell me what is the cest way to keep your sand in the tank clean
     
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  3. Annoying

    Annoying

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    If you have a nice big tank and your sand isn't rough you can start doing some research on sandsifter gobies, you get a few of them that fo a smashing job! Normally what I did was just weekly with a tank tool just lightly overturn the sand so that the clean sand is above and the "filthy sand" is below. Also try to limit algae growth with overskimming and by lowering phosphates and nitrates.
     
  4. PieterJNR

    PieterJNR Thread Starter

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    how can i lower phosphates and nitrates.
     
  5. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Is your sand covered with cyno, diatoms or plain algae? if your not sure post a picture and we can ID it for you. also some specs on your tank and it's water parameters will help.
     
  6. Annoying

    Annoying

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    Like butcherman said more info could help a lot on how to solve the problem but in almost all cases of excessive algae growth the causes are to much nutrients. The best way to lower this is to go to the source. This can be any organic matter rotting away in the water, uneaten food, dead fish etc. Firstly limit the food you give to the fish and also make sure there are no dead zones where detritus can settle and rot away. There are a lot of ways to get nutrients out of the water by doing regular water changes (with RO water, always RO water), running your skimmer wet (this just means that the skimmate it produce is lighter in colour because there is more water present but it gets rid of the excessive nutrients faster), also you can use macro algae in a refugium to 'eat' the phosphates and nitrates( see caulerpa and chaeto) and also you can run chemicals that physically absorb nutrients (Activated carbon, rowaphos etc). Also an other way to limit algae growth is to shorten the period taht lights are on. Normally 6-8 hours of main lights(not actinics) is enough time.
     
    Last edited: 7 Apr 2012
  7. PieterJNR

    PieterJNR Thread Starter

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    here is images of my tank and the sand

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
  8. Broder

    Broder Mudshark

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    As Bucherman asked, also what type of sand do you have, how old is the tank, how much flow do you have, what filtration is there? Ie skimmer type, how much live rock etc.
     
  9. Broder

    Broder Mudshark

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    Oh.... Brand new tank! Looks fine to me. Enjoy the nice white sand while it lasts.
     
  10. PieterJNR

    PieterJNR Thread Starter

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    i have a hang on skimmer and about 25 kg live rock and i have 2 seio m 1500 super flow pumps
    do you need my tank size to
     
  11. Annoying

    Annoying

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    How deep is your sand? Normally the best is between 2 and 4 cm anything deeper and it can trap detritus easier. The filth you see is cyano and shows like I said ntrients problem but not to much seeing that the rest of the tank is still nice and clean. I would take out sme of the sand if it's more then 3 cm just my 2c. Also how old is your tank?
     
    Last edited: 7 Apr 2012
  12. PieterJNR

    PieterJNR Thread Starter

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    my sand is about 12 cm beep because i do not have a sump so i have a dsb in my tank and my tank is running for about 1 an a half months
     
  13. Broder

    Broder Mudshark

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    Theoretically a dsb in the display can work, but it's not practical. A dsb must remain undisturbed. The yellow wrasse will bury itself at night and as it gets bigger, it'll really move the sand around. Also if you have good flow in the tank, sand will constantly get kicked up. A dsb will always look "dirty" where it touches the glass. Can you not add a sump?
     
  14. PieterJNR

    PieterJNR Thread Starter

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    nope it is tainted glass and the guys are scared if the drill they could chip the glass and it will weaken have an idea but still need to get cash flow to do that and the i will also have a dsb with a sump
     
  15. Annoying

    Annoying

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    You can always make a DIY overflow , mad one and worked like a dream. Have a look at the DIY threads
     
  16. Broder

    Broder Mudshark

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    In that case your options are an overflow as Annoying has mentioned. Can't comment as I don't know anything about them. Other ways of reducing niitrates without a sump:
    •Denitrator coil
    •Algea scrubber
    •Increased volume of live or bio-rock
    •HOB nitrate and phosphate pellet reactor
    •increased water change regime

    With any of the above, you can reduce your dsb depth to a normal 3cm. Failing all of that, you could just get rid of the wrasse and cover the unsightly section of your tank. You'll always have problems with cyno on the dsb though, as you can't have much flow over it.
     
  17. 2balive

    2balive

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    Go in DT DSB

    I personally like DSBs in tanks, think it looks more natural (and like looking at the dirty bit to see what is living in it) and if maintained correctly can be very beneficial. There is quite a few articles on how to start and maintain them available now, that was quite eye opening for me.

    But @Broder is correct, they are tricky to keep in a high flow tank, and also limited your choice in livestock and CUC. I am in the "no syphoning/cleaning of DSB" camp, so in a way can lighten your maintenance.

    If you do it right from the start and maintain it properly think it can be one of the most fascinating aspect of a DT.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
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